Let’s be real for a second. You’re standing in the beauty aisle, or maybe you’re scrolling through a luxury site, and you see that sleek navy blue box with the silver lettering. It’s Dior. It feels like a rite of passage for anyone who loves makeup, but the Christian Dior lip pencil—formally known as the Dior Contour—is a weirdly polarizing product. Some people swear it’s the only thing that keeps their lipstick from migrating into the fine lines around their mouth, while others think you’re just paying forty bucks for a piece of wood and some pigment.
They’re both right. Sort of.
The truth is that Dior changed the formula a few years back. If you’re still looking for the old version from 2018, you’re out of luck. The current iteration is a floral-enriched, "no-transfer" dream that actually lasts for eight hours, but only if you know how to prep your lips. If your lips are dry? It’s going to look like a disaster. If they're hydrated? It’s magic.
What Actually Makes the Dior Contour Different?
Most lip liners are either too creamy, which means they slide right off, or too dry, which feels like you’re drawing on your face with a colored pencil from second grade. Dior sits in this strange middle ground. Peter Philips, the Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup, has been very vocal about wanting a "couture" finish that doesn't feel like a mask.
The ingredient list includes peony extract and pomegranate flower extract. Does that actually do anything? Honestly, it mostly helps with the "glide." It’s why you can fill in your entire lip with the Christian Dior lip pencil and not feel like your skin is shrinking. It’s a matte finish, but it has a suppleness to it.
The Dual-Ended Debate
Every single Dior Contour comes with a built-in brush on one end and a sharpener in the box. This isn't just a gimmick. Most people ignore the brush, but if you want that soft, blurred "French girl" lip look, the brush is actually the most important part. You line the lips, then use the brush to pull the color toward the center. It creates a gradient that makes your lips look significantly fuller without looking like you’ve "overlined" them in a way that screams for attention.
Stop Buying 999 Just Because Everyone Tells You To
We have to talk about the shades. Dior 999 is the legendary red. It’s the color of the runway. It’s iconic. But here is a hot take: 999 is not for everyone.
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If you have a very cool undertone, 999 can sometimes pull a bit too orange-brick on you. Instead, you should be looking at something like 080 Red Smile. On the flip side, if you want that "your lips but better" look, the shade 100 Nude Look is the one that actually sells out the most. It’s based on the "greige" New Look of 1947. It’s a perfect balance of pink and beige that doesn't make you look washed out or like you’re wearing 2000s-era concealer on your mouth.
Then there is shade 720 Icone. It’s a rosewood. It’s deeper than 100 but softer than a true red. If you’re only going to buy one Christian Dior lip pencil, this is usually the one I tell people to get because it works under sheer glosses just as well as it works under heavy matte lipsticks.
The Longevity Myth and How to Break It
Dior claims 8 hours of wear. I’ve tested this. If you’re eating a salad with vinaigrette, that oil is going to break down the wax in the pencil. That’s just chemistry. However, compared to a standard drugstore liner, the Dior pigment stays "stained" on the lip much longer.
To actually get that 8-hour wear:
- Start with a light exfoliation. Use a damp washcloth. Simple.
- Do NOT put lip balm on right before the liner. The wax won't grip.
- Outline first, then fill in the corners.
- Set the liner with a tiny bit of translucent powder before putting your lipstick on top.
It sounds like a lot of work. It is. But if you're spending this much on a Christian Dior lip pencil, you might as well make it perform.
Is It Really Transfer-Proof?
Mostly. Once it sets—which takes about 30 seconds—it’s pretty solid. You can drink coffee and you won't see a ring of lip liner on your mug. That’s the "no-transfer" technology they’ve been pushing. It’s a blend of high-tech resins that create a flexible film over the skin. It moves when you talk, so it doesn't crack, which is the hallmark of a cheap liner.
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Why Some People Hate It
Let’s be transparent. The biggest complaint about the Christian Dior lip pencil is the sharpening. Because the formula is "no-transfer," it’s a bit firmer than a gel liner. If you use a dull sharpener, the wood will splinter and the lead will snap. Use the sharpener that comes in the box. Dior literally tuned the blade angle to the diameter of their specific wood casing. It seems extra, but it saves you from wasting five dollars worth of product every time you need a point.
Another issue is the price. You’re paying for the brand, the packaging, and the specific pigment sourcing. If you’re on a budget, you can find similar shades elsewhere, but you’ll struggle to find that exact balance of "matte but not drying."
The "Secret" Shades You’re Overlooking
While everyone is fighting over the nudes and reds, the darker shades in the Dior lineup are actually the most impressive. Shade 959 Charnelle and 975 Opera are stunning. Usually, dark lip liners are patchy. They skip across the lip and leave dark spots. Because of the peony extract—yes, the flower stuff actually helps here—the darker pigments in the Christian Dior lip pencil distribute much more evenly. If you have deeper skin tones, or if you love a 90s-style dark lip with a light gloss, these are the gold standard.
Finding Your Perfect Match
Selecting a liner shouldn't be stressful, but with 20+ shades, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. A good rule of thumb is to match your liner to your natural lip color, not your lipstick. This allows you to use the liner with multiple different lip products.
- Look at the inside of your lower lip. That’s your true base shade.
- For most people, this is either a "brown-pink" or a "purple-pink."
- If you're brown-pink, go for Dior 434 Promenade.
- If you're purple-pink, go for Dior 775 Hyis.
The Sustainable Angle (Or Lack Thereof)
Dior is trying. The current Dior Contour is "cleaner" than previous versions, moving away from certain siloxanes. However, it is still a wooden pencil. While wood is technically biodegradable, the plastic cap and the synthetic brush are not. It’s a luxury product, not an eco-warrior’s first choice. If sustainability is your number one priority, you might feel a bit conflicted here, though the longevity of the product means you’re buying fewer pencils over time.
How to Spot a Fake
Because Dior is a high-value target for counterfeiters, you have to be careful. If you find a Christian Dior lip pencil on a random discount site for $12, it’s fake. Real Dior pencils have a very specific weight. The brush bristles are stiff but soft, not plastic-y. The logo on the side should be engraved, not just printed on the surface. Fake pencils often smell like chemicals or cheap wax; real ones have a very faint, almost non-existent floral scent.
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Making the Investment Count
If you've decided to pull the trigger, don't just use it to draw a circle around your mouth. That’s a waste of the formula.
Professional Application Technique
Take the pencil and draw an 'X' at your Cupid's bow. This keeps your lips symmetrical. Then, instead of drawing one continuous line down to the corners, use short, feathery strokes. This prevents the "harsh line" look that can make you look older. Use the brush to blend the edges inward.
If you want your lipstick to stay on through a three-course meal, color in your entire lip surface with the pencil. It acts as a primer. When your lipstick eventually wears off in the center, the Christian Dior lip pencil underneath will keep the color looking intact. It's the difference between looking polished and looking like you need a mirror immediately.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Purchase
If you're ready to add a Christian Dior lip pencil to your kit, don't just wing it at the counter.
- Test on your fingertips: The skin on your fingertips is closer to the texture of your lips than the back of your hand. Swatch the color there to see the true undertone.
- Check the lighting: Walk to the front of the store and look at the swatch in natural sunlight. Store lights are notoriously yellow and will lie to you about how a nude shade looks.
- Buy the set: Often, Dior sells sets with a lipstick and a mini liner. It’s a better way to test the formula without committing forty dollars to a single pencil.
- Save the sharpener: Don't lose it. It's specifically designed for the hardness of the Dior lead.
Using a high-end liner is about more than just the color; it's about the confidence that your makeup isn't going to betray you halfway through the day. The Christian Dior lip pencil is a tool. If you use it correctly—blending, layering, and choosing the right undertone—it actually justifies its place in your makeup bag. Just remember to hydrate your lips the night before, or no amount of luxury pigment will save the look.