You’ve probably been there. You stare at your dark hair in the mirror and think it looks a bit… flat. Maybe a little "inky." You want movement, but you aren't trying to go blonde. You definitely don’t want that weird orange-tinted disaster that happens when someone gets a little too aggressive with the bleach. This is exactly where chestnut brown highlights dark brown hair enters the conversation. It’s the middle ground. It’s that rich, toasted-nut color that makes you look like you actually spend time in the sun, even if you’ve been stuck in an office for months.
Honestly, it's about depth. Dark brown hair, while gorgeous, can swallow light. Chestnut highlights act as a reflector. They catch the sun. They make your layers actually look like layers. But there’s a massive catch that people rarely talk about: the undertone. If your stylist doesn't understand the difference between a cool chestnut and a warm mahogany, you’re going to end up with a color that clashes with your skin tone. It’s a delicate balance.
Why Most Chestnut Highlights Go Wrong
The biggest mistake? Treating all dark hair the same. If your base is a Level 2 (basically off-black), pulling a Level 7 chestnut is going to require a specific developer strength. If you go too high, you blow the cuticle open and the color fades to a muddy orange in three weeks.
Most people think "chestnut" is just one color. It isn't. Chestnut is a spectrum. It’s a mix of red and gold undertones. Real experts like celebrity colorist Tracey Cunningham—who has worked with basically everyone in Hollywood—often talk about "lived-in" color. This means the highlights shouldn't start at the very root. When you put chestnut brown highlights dark brown hair right against the scalp, the regrowth looks harsh. It looks like a stripe.
Instead, a "smudged" root or a balayage technique is the way to go. You want the chestnut to bloom around the mid-lengths. It should look like the hair is glowing from the inside out. If you see a "zebra" pattern, someone messed up the tension during the foil application. It happens more often than you'd think.
The Science of the "Lift"
Dark hair is stubborn. It’s packed with eumelanin. When you apply lightener, the hair goes through stages: red, then red-orange, then orange, then yellow-orange. To get a true chestnut, you have to stop the lifting process at the "orange-red" stage.
If you stop too early, it’s just a dull reddish-brown that nobody notices. If you wait too long and try to tone it back down, the color loses its vibrancy. It looks "flat." Professional colorists use a developer—usually 20 volume for a subtle lift—to gently nudge the pigment out without destroying the hair's structural integrity.
📖 Related: Bates Nut Farm Woods Valley Road Valley Center CA: Why Everyone Still Goes After 100 Years
Then comes the toner. This is the secret sauce. A stylist might mix a 6RC (Red Copper) with a 6N (Neutral) to get that perfect "woodsy" vibe. Without the neutral, it’s too "Little Orphan Annie." Without the copper, it’s just boring brown. You need that tiny bit of warmth to make the "chestnut" actually look like a chestnut.
Choosing the Right Technique for Your Texture
Curly hair needs a totally different approach than stick-straight hair. If you have 4C curls and you do fine, "babylight" foils, the color will get lost. You won't even see it. For textured hair, "pintura" highlighting is the gold standard. The stylist literally paints the color onto individual curls where the light naturally hits. It’s more artistic than mechanical.
For straight hair, you can go with more traditional foils, but you have to be careful about the "slice." Slicing creates a bolder chunk of color. Weaving creates a blended look. If you want that high-contrast, "90s-is-back" look, you slice. If you want to look like you were born with perfect hair, you weave.
Maintenance Is the Part Everyone Hates
Let’s be real. Red molecules are the largest and the first to leave the hair shaft. Since chestnut has red undertones, it’s going to fade. Fast. You’ll walk out of the salon looking like a million bucks, and four washes later, you’re wondering where the "glow" went.
You cannot use hot water. I know, it sucks. But hot water opens the cuticle and lets that expensive toner slide right down the drain. Use lukewarm water. Better yet, use cold water for the final rinse. It seals the cuticle and boosts shine.
Also, get a blue or green toning shampoo? No. That’s for blondes or people trying to kill all warmth. If you have chestnut brown highlights dark brown hair, you actually want some warmth. A color-depositing conditioner—something like the ones from Davines or Christophe Robin—is better. Look for shades labeled "Tobacco" or "Warm Brunette." Use it once a week. It’s basically like a mini-refresh for your color between salon visits.
👉 See also: Why T. Pepin’s Hospitality Centre Still Dominates the Tampa Event Scene
The Cost Factor
Don't let a "cheap" salon deal fool you. A full head of highlights on dark hair is a multi-hour process. It involves a consultation, the application, the processing time (which can be 45 minutes alone), the gloss, and the blowout. If someone is offering this for fifty bucks, run. They are likely using a high-volume bleach that will fry your hair or a box dye that will never come out.
Expect to pay anywhere from $150 to $400 depending on your city and the stylist's experience. It’s an investment. But considering you only need to touch it up every 12 to 16 weeks if you do a balayage style, the "cost per wear" is actually pretty low.
Common Misconceptions About Brunette Highlights
"It will turn my hair orange." Only if it’s done poorly. Brassiness happens when the hair isn't lifted enough or if the toner is the wrong pH. A skilled colorist knows how to neutralize the "ugly" orange while keeping the "pretty" copper.
"I can do this at home with a kit." Please don't. Box kits usually have a "one size fits all" developer. Dark hair is thick and resilient; the developer in the box might not be strong enough to get past the red stage, leaving you with "hot roots" where your scalp is bright orange and your ends are still dark.
"Highlights ruin your hair." Lightening hair does cause some damage, yes. But it’s 2026. We have bond builders like Olaplex or K18. These products literally reconnect the broken protein chains in your hair while the color is processing. If your stylist uses a bond builder, your hair might actually feel better after the highlights because of the sealing gloss they use at the end.
Real Examples of the Look
Look at someone like Priyanka Chopra. She is the queen of the chestnut brunette vibe. Her base is almost a soft black, but she has these ribbons of warm, woodsy brown that frame her face. It makes her skin look radiant.
✨ Don't miss: Human DNA Found in Hot Dogs: What Really Happened and Why You Shouldn’t Panic
Or think about the "Expensive Brunette" trend that took over TikTok recently. It’s less about being "blonde" and more about having hair that looks healthy and multidimensional. It’s the difference between a flat matte paint job on a car and a metallic finish that shimmers when it moves.
The "Money Piece" Transition
If you’re scared of a full head of color, ask for a "money piece." This is just a few brighter, chestnut-toned strands right around your face. It’s a great way to test-drive chestnut brown highlights dark brown hair without committing to the whole head. If you hate it, it’s easy to dye back. If you love it—and you probably will—you can add more next time.
How to Talk to Your Stylist
Do not just say "I want chestnut." Your version of chestnut and their version might be totally different. Bring photos. But don't bring photos of people with totally different hair textures than yours. If you have thin, fine hair, don't show a picture of someone with a massive mane of curls.
Use specific words:
- "Warmth without brass."
- "Dimension."
- "Low maintenance."
- "Sun-kissed, not striped."
Ask them about the "Level." Most dark brown hair sits at a Level 3 or 4. Tell them you want your highlights to be at a Level 6 or 7. This ensures the contrast isn't too jarring. You want a difference of about two to three shades. Anything more than that starts looking like a 2000s-era "skunk" streak, which... unless that’s your vibe, you probably want to avoid.
Actionable Next Steps
- Audit your shower: Switch to a sulfate-free, color-safe shampoo immediately. Sulfates are essentially dish soap for your hair; they will strip your chestnut tones in a single wash.
- Book a "Gloss" between appointments: You don't always need more highlights. Sometimes you just need a 20-minute clear or tinted gloss at the salon to bring the shine back and shift the tone.
- The 72-hour rule: After you get your highlights, do not wash your hair for at least three days. The cuticle needs time to fully close and "lock" the new pigment in place.
- Check your water: If you live in an area with hard water (heavy minerals), buy a filtered showerhead. Minerals like calcium and magnesium can build up on your highlights, making them look dingy and greenish over time.
- Heat protection is non-negotiable: If you use a flat iron or curling wand, use a protectant. High heat literally "cooks" the color molecules, causing them to turn brown or fade out entirely.