You’re standing in the middle of the craft aisle at Michael’s or Joann Fabrics, staring at a wall of colorful sheets. Some feel like standard printer paper, while others are thick, sturdy, and almost board-like. You see labels for "65 lb cover" and "110 lb index," and honestly, it’s enough to make your head spin. You just wanted to make a birthday card, but now you’re questioning your entire understanding of stationery.
So, what is cardstock paper, really?
Basically, it's the middle child of the paper world. It is significantly thicker and more durable than your average office bond paper, but it hasn't quite reached the heavy-duty density of cardboard or chipboard. People often call it "cover stock" or just "pasteboard," though the terminology shifts depending on whether you’re talking to a professional printer or a hobbyist scrapbooker.
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It’s the backbone of the greeting card industry. It’s the reason your business cards don't feel like wet napkins when you hand them out. If you’ve ever held a high-quality wedding invitation or a restaurant menu that didn't flop over when you picked it up, you’ve held cardstock.
The Weighty Confusion of Paper Measurements
Here is where things get kinda messy. If you go to a hardware store and buy a pound of nails, you get a pound of nails. In the paper world, weight is calculated using "basis weight," which is the weight of a 500-sheet ream of that paper in its uncut size. Because different types of paper have different starting sizes, a "100 lb" text paper is actually much thinner than an "80 lb" cover stock. It’s counterintuitive. It’s annoying. But it’s how the industry works.
Most of the cardstock you’ll encounter falls into a few specific camps. You have your 65 lb (176 gsm), which is the standard "lightweight" cardstock. It’s great for layering in scrapbooks or making DIY confetti. It goes through almost any home printer without jamming, which is a huge plus. Then you jump up to 80 lb (216 gsm). This is the sweet spot. It’s sturdy enough for a standalone card but still flexible enough to fold cleanly.
If you’re looking for something that feels truly premium, you’re looking at 110 lb (approx. 300 gsm) or higher. This is the heavy hitter. It’s what invitation designers like Crane & Co. might use for high-end stationery. Be warned, though: your average home inkjet printer will probably start making some very unhappy grinding noises if you try to feed it 110 lb stock.
Textures, Finishes, and Why They Matter
Texture isn't just about how the paper feels under your thumb; it’s about how it holds ink.
Smooth cardstock is the workhorse of the digital printing world. It has a flat, even surface that allows toner or ink to sit crisp and clear. If you’re printing photos or intricate designs, smooth is your best friend.
Linen cardstock has a subtle cross-hatch pattern that mimics—you guessed it—fabric. It screams "classy." You’ll see this a lot on business letterheads or formal menus. The texture adds a tactile dimension that makes even a simple design feel expensive.
Vellum finish is a bit of a misnomer. Real vellum is made from animal skin (calfskin, specifically), but "vellum finish" cardstock is just paper with a slightly toothy, eggshell-like texture. It’s porous. It’s great for colored pencils or stamping because the "tooth" of the paper grabs onto the pigment. Don't confuse this with translucent vellum, which is that see-through paper people use for overlays.
Then there’s Glossy vs. Matte. Glossy cardstock has a chemical coating that makes colors pop. It’s brilliant for postcards but a nightmare if you want to write on it with a ballpoint pen. Matte cardstock is coated but dull, giving you a smooth look without the glare.
The Printer Dilemma: Will It Jam?
I’ve seen so many people ruin a perfectly good $200 printer by trying to force thick cardstock through the wrong tray. Most home printers use a "U-turn" path, where the paper is pulled from a bottom tray, looped 180 degrees, and spit out the top. Thick cardstock hates doing gymnastics.
If you are serious about working with cardstock paper, you need a printer with a rear-feed tray or a "straight-through" path. This allows the paper to pass through the machine without bending. Brands like Canon and Epson often have models specifically marketed to crafters (like the Canon PIXMA series) that handle heavy media much better than a standard office laser printer.
Also, check your settings! You have to tell the computer you're using "Heavyweight" or "Cardstock." This slows down the rollers and adjusts the fuser temperature so the ink actually bonds to the paper rather than just smearing everywhere.
Sourcing the Good Stuff
Where you buy your cardstock depends on what you’re doing with it.
- For Bulk Business Needs: Places like French Paper Co. are legendary. They’ve been around since 1871 and are one of the last small, family-owned mills in the U.S. Their "Speckletone" line is iconic among graphic designers.
- For Precise Crafting: American Crafts or Bazzill Basics are the gold standards for scrapbooking. Bazzill is famous for having about a million different shades of "off-white" and specific textures like "grasscloth."
- For Budget Projects: Honestly, the "Recollections" brand at big-box craft stores is fine. It’s affordable. It’s consistent. It gets the job done for a kid's school project or a basic card.
GSM vs. Points: The Professional Language
If you really want to sound like you know what you’re talking about at a print shop, stop talking about "pounds" and start talking about GSM (Grams per Square Meter) or Points (thickness in thousandths of an inch).
GSM is the global standard. It measures the actual density of the paper regardless of its size.
- 170–200 GSM: Light cardstock.
- 250–300 GSM: Standard greeting card.
- 350+ GSM: High-end business cards (the kind that don't bend easily).
"Points" (pt) are used mainly in the packaging and professional printing industry. A "14 pt" cardstock is 0.014 inches thick. It’s a measurement of caliper, not weight. A 14 pt card might be lighter than a 12 pt card depending on how "fluffy" the paper fibers are. It’s a nuanced distinction, but for professional packaging, thickness (caliper) matters more because it determines if a box will hold its shape.
Environmental Reality Check
Paper gets a bad rap for being "anti-environment," but cardstock is actually one of the more sustainable materials in the crafting world. Most high-quality cardstock is now made from FSC-certified (Forest Stewardship Council) forests.
Many brands, like Neenah Paper, produce lines made from 100% post-consumer waste. You can find "seeded" cardstock too—paper embedded with wildflower seeds. You use the card, the recipient buries it in their garden, and months later, they have marigolds instead of a piece of trash. It’s a cool way to make the material's lifecycle meaningful.
Getting Results: Practical Steps for Your Project
So, you’ve got a project in mind. Here is how you actually execute it without wasting money on the wrong paper.
- Check your printer’s manual. Look for the "Maximum Paper Weight" specification. If it says 200 gsm and you bought 300 gsm, return the paper. You’ll save yourself a headache.
- Use a bone folder. If you try to fold cardstock with just your hands, you will crack the fibers. It looks messy and cheap. A $5 plastic or bone folder allows you to "score" the paper first, creating a clean, professional crease.
- Mind the Grain. Paper has a grain, just like wood. It’s easier to fold with the grain than against it. If your paper is cracking despite using a bone folder, try rotating your design 90 degrees.
- Test your adhesives. Not all glue works on cardstock. Basic school glue has too much water and will make the paper warp. Use a "dry" adhesive like double-sided tape or a specialized "tacky" glue with low water content.
- Light Matters. Cardstock colors look wildly different under fluorescent craft store lights versus natural sunlight. If you’re color-matching for a wedding, always buy a single "sample" sheet before committing to a 500-count ream.
Cardstock is fundamentally about structure. It's the difference between a project that feels "homemade" in a bad way and one that feels "handcrafted" in a professional way. Whether you are building a 3D paper model, printing your own business cards, or just making a heartfelt note for a friend, the paper you choose is the foundation of the entire experience. Choose the right weight, respect the grain, and your work will literally stand on its own.
To get started, identify the highest weight your current printer can handle by checking the manufacturer's website. Once you know your limit, buy a "sampler pack" from an online vendor like PaperDirect or Cards and Pockets. This lets you feel the difference between 65 lb and 100 lb stock in person before you invest in a bulk order. It’s the cheapest way to avoid the "it's too thick for my printer" trap.