You’re probably going to head toward the penguins. Most people do. They land in the Mother City, grab a rental car with the steering wheel on the "wrong" side, and navigate the winding curves of the M6 toward the Boulders Beach colony. It makes sense. The African Penguin is adorable, clumsy, and smells slightly like rotting sardines—an intoxicating mix for any tourist. But treating Cape Town Simon's Town as just a quick photo op is a massive mistake. Honestly, you're missing the soul of the False Bay coastline if you just tick a box and head back to the V&A Waterfront for dinner.
Simon’s Town is old. Not "American old" where a building from 1920 is a landmark, but genuinely historic. It’s been a naval base for over two centuries. Walking down St George’s Street—the famous "Historical Mile"—feels like you’ve stepped into a seafaring novel, minus the scurvy. The architecture is a messy, beautiful mix of Victorian balconies and Cape Dutch gables. It’s salty. It’s windy. And if you don't know where to look, it’s easy to overlook the best parts.
The Penguin Problem and the Boulders Secret
Let's address the tuxedoed elephant in the room. Boulders Beach is part of the Table Mountain National Park. You have to pay an entrance fee. It gets crowded. Like, "elbow-to-elbow with a selfie stick" crowded.
Most visitors follow the wooden boardwalks. Sure, you see the nests. You see the chicks. But if you want the actual Cape Town Simon's Town experience, you go to the adjacent Foxy Beach or the actual Boulders Beach swimming area. Here, the massive granite boulders—which are over 540 million years old, by the way—create sheltered tide pools. If you’re lucky, a penguin will literally swim past your ankles while you're wading in the water.
Pro tip: The water in False Bay is significantly warmer than the Atlantic Seaboard (Clifton or Camps Bay). While the Atlantic side hovers around a bone-chilling 12°C to 14°C, False Bay can hit a balmy 19°C in the summer. It’s still brisk, but you won't lose feeling in your toes within three seconds.
A Dog Named Just Nuisance
You cannot talk about this town without mentioning the Great Dane. High up on Jubilee Square, there’s a bronze statue of a dog. This isn't just "some dog." This is Able Seaman Just Nuisance. During World War II, this dog was officially enlisted in the Royal Navy.
Why? Because he kept jumping on the trains with the sailors traveling between Cape Town Simon's Town. The railway company threatened to put him down because he was a "nuisance" (hence the name). The Navy’s solution was to enlist him, giving him free travel passes and a rank. He even had a record of minor offenses—mostly for sleeping on sailors' bunks. He’s buried with full military honors at Klawer Camp. It sounds like a tall tale, but the Naval Museum in town has the original paperwork to prove it. Go see it. The museum is housed in the old Mast House and it’s free, though they appreciate a donation.
The Shark Spotters and the Changing Ocean
False Bay used to be the global capital of the Great White Shark. If you watched Air Jaws on Discovery Channel, that was filmed right here at Seal Island. But things have changed. Around 2017, the Great Whites basically vanished.
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Scientists like Dr. Alison Kock have pointed toward the arrival of two Orcas—nicknamed Port and Starboard—who specialized in eating shark livers. It’s a bit gruesome, but it's real. Now, the ecosystem has shifted. You’re more likely to see Bronze Whaler sharks or Seven-gill sharks.
When you drive the road between Cape Town Simon's Town, look up. You'll see people in green or black bibs sitting on the mountain with binoculars. These are the Shark Spotters. They’re a non-profit that monitors the water to keep swimmers safe. They use a flag system:
- Green: Clear water, good visibility.
- Black: Poor visibility.
- Red: High shark alert.
- White: A shark has been spotted (get out of the water immediately).
It’s one of the most effective shark safety programs in the world. It’s purely visual and doesn't rely on nets that kill marine life.
Where to Actually Eat (Avoid the Tourist Traps)
Jubilee Square is great for a coffee, but if you want the real deal, you have to hunt a bit.
- The Lighthouse Café: It’s light, airy, and the food is actually fresh. Their mussels are legendary.
- Pisces Fish and Chips: Located down by the harbor. It’s not fancy. You eat out of a box. But the hake is caught locally, and the "slap chips" (soft, vinegar-soaked fries) are a South African rite of passage.
- Saveur: Good for a slightly more "grown-up" meal with a view of the yacht club.
Honestly, skip the generic spots right next to the penguin entrance. They’re overpriced and the food is "meh" at best. Walk ten minutes back into the center of town. You'll save money and your taste buds will thank you.
The Graveyard of Ships
The naval history here isn't just about the base. The waters off Cape Town Simon's Town are treacherous. The "Cape of Storms" name wasn't a joke.
If you’re a diver, this is paradise. There are several wrecks within reach of the shore. The SAS Pietermaritzburg, an old minesweeper, was scuttled in 1994 to create an artificial reef. It’s sitting in about 22 meters of water. The marine life there is insane—nudibranchs, anemones, and kelp forests that look like underwater jungles.
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Even if you don't dive, the kelp forests are visible from the road. This is the "Great African Sea Forest," made famous by the documentary My Octopus Teacher. It’s one of the only places in the world where you can see this specific type of bamboo kelp. It’s an entire universe happening just meters from the shore.
Getting There: The Train vs. The Drive
The train from Cape Town to Simon’s Town is often called one of the most beautiful rail journeys in the world. The tracks literally run along the beach at Muizenberg and Kalk Bay.
However, a reality check: The South African rail system (PRASA) has had a rough few years. While the "Blue Train" or the tourist-centric "Southern Line" has seen improvements, check the current status before you go. Vandalism and cable theft often shut down sections.
If the train is running reliably, take it. It’s cheap and the views are unbeatable. If not, drive the M6. But don't just take the highway. Go via Chapman’s Peak Drive (there's a toll, but it's worth every cent) and then loop back through Noordhoek and Sun Valley. It adds 30 minutes, but it's one of the best drives on the planet.
Beyond the Penguins: Miller’s Point
If you keep driving past the town toward Cape Point, you’ll hit Miller’s Point. Most tourists stop at Boulders and turn around. Don't be that person.
Miller’s Point has a tidal pool that is tucked away and far less crowded. It’s also a launch site for kayakers. You can take a guided kayak tour from the Simon’s Town harbor. It’s a totally different perspective. You’re sitting at water level, looking up at the mountains, and sometimes a Cape Fur Seal will decide to hitch a ride on the back of your boat.
Is it Safe?
This is the question every traveler asks about South Africa. Generally, Simon's Town is quite safe. It’s a small, tight-knit community. That said, don't be a target.
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- Don't leave your camera or bags visible in your car.
- Stick to the main streets after dark.
- Use common sense.
The biggest "danger" is actually the baboons. The Chacma baboons in the area are smart. They know how to open car doors. They know that a blue backpack usually contains sandwiches. Do not feed them. Do not get close for a photo. They are wild animals with teeth the size of a lion's. Seriously.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
To get the most out of Cape Town Simon's Town, you need a plan that isn't just "following the crowd."
- Start Early: Get to Boulders Beach by 8:00 AM. You’ll beat the tour buses that arrive from Cape Town around 10:30 AM.
- Check the Wind: False Bay can be brutal when the "South Easter" wind blows. If the forecast says 40km/h+ winds, maybe swap your beach day for a museum day.
- Visit the Naval Museum: Even if you aren't a history buff, the submarine exhibit is fascinating. It’s located in the West Yard of the Naval Base.
- Walk the Pipeline: There’s a coastal path that runs from the harbor toward the beaches. It’s a great way to see the geology of the area up close.
- Bring Cash: While most places take cards, some of the smaller craft markets and parking marshals (who look after your car for a small tip) require a few Rands.
The Bottom Line
Simon’s Town is more than a penguin colony. It’s a working naval town, a historical treasure trove, and the gateway to the Cape of Good Hope. Spend the night there if you can. When the day-trippers leave, the town quietens down, the harbor lights reflect on the water, and you get to feel the real rhythm of the coast. You’ll realize that the penguins are just the opening act for a much more interesting story.
Grab a pair of binoculars, keep your windows rolled up when baboons are nearby, and take your time. The best things here aren't found on a 15-minute boardwalk stroll; they’re found in the quiet corners of the harbor and the cold, clear water of the kelp forests.
Go for the penguins. Stay for everything else.
Next Steps for Your Coastal Adventure
- Check the Tide: Visit Tides4Fishing or a similar site to time your visit to the Boulders tidal pools during low tide.
- Book a Tour: If you want to see the "Secret Forest," look for kelp forest snorkeling tours that depart from the Simon's Town pier.
- Verify Rail Access: Check the Metrorail Western Cape social media pages for real-time updates on the Southern Line's functionality before planning a train trip.