Walk through the front door of the Canfield House Bed and Breakfast in Onekama, and you’ll notice it immediately. It’s that smell. Not some synthetic "linen" spray from a can, but the real scent of old white pine and slow-brewed coffee that seems to have soaked into the very floorboards over the last century. Most people visiting Northern Michigan just blast past these little towns on their way to Traverse City or Mackinac. They're missing out. Seriously.
The Canfield House Bed and Breakfast isn't just a place to crash after a day at the beach. It’s a piece of lumber baron history that somehow survived the wrecking ball. Built back in 1900 by Charles Canfield—son of the famous lumber tycoon John Canfield—it was originally a "summer cottage." But "cottage" is a bit of a stretch when you’re talking about a massive structure with wrap-around porches and enough woodwork to make a modern carpenter weep.
The Weird, Real History of the Canfield House Bed and Breakfast
You’ve gotta understand the vibe of 1900s Michigan to get why this place exists. John Canfield was the man in Manistee. He owned the mills, the land, and basically the air everyone breathed. When he built this place for Charles, he wasn't just building a house; he was planting a flag. It’s located right on Portage Lake, which, fun fact, wasn't always a lake that connected to Lake Michigan. Local farmers literally dug a ditch in 1871 to lower the water level, which ended up creating the deep-water harbor that made Onekama a prime spot for the elite to escape the Chicago heat.
Charles lived the high life here, but time is rarely kind to these massive estates. Over the decades, the house saw different lives. It wasn't always a polished B&B. It took people with actual passion—and a lot of sandpaper—to keep the French doors swinging and the original fixtures from ending up in a scrap heap. When you stay here now, you're sitting on furniture that has seen a hundred Michigan winters.
The architecture is technically a mix, but it leans heavily into that classic Victorian-meets-Lake-Resort style. The heavy wood beams in the dining room? Those are original. The way the light hits the stained glass in the afternoon? That’s exactly how it looked when the Canfields were hosting lavish dinners for the timber elite.
✨ Don't miss: How Long Ago Did the Titanic Sink? The Real Timeline of History's Most Famous Shipwreck
What it’s Actually Like Staying in Onekama
Let’s talk about the rooms. Honestly, if you’re looking for a sterile Marriott vibe with a glass-walled shower and a generic art print of a cow, go somewhere else. Each room at the Canfield House Bed and Breakfast is distinct. You might find yourself in a room with a clawfoot tub that takes forever to fill but feels incredible once you're in it.
The beds are usually high—like, "climb into them" high—with heavy quilts. It's quiet. Like, really quiet. Onekama isn't a party town. You’ll hear the wind coming off Portage Lake and maybe the floorboards groaning as the house settles into the night. It’s rhythmic. It’s grounding.
Breakfast isn't just a side note
Most B&Bs claim to have "gourmet" food. At Canfield, it’s usually more about heartiness. Think thick-cut bacon, maybe some lemon poppyseed pancakes, or a strata that could feed a small army. They source stuff locally whenever they can because, well, it’s Northern Michigan—everything grows here. If the cherries are in season, you better believe you're eating them.
The "Two Lakes" Problem (Which is actually a Perk)
One of the things that trips people up about the Canfield House Bed and Breakfast is the geography. You are on Portage Lake. It’s a massive, beautiful inland lake. But you’re also about a two-minute drive or a decent bike ride away from the "Big Lake"—Lake Michigan.
🔗 Read more: Why the Newport Back Bay Science Center is the Best Kept Secret in Orange County
Portage Lake is warmer. It’s calmer. It’s where you go to kayak or watch the sunset without getting sand blasted into your eyes by the big lake winds. But if you want the epic, 50-foot dunes and the horizon that never ends, Lake Michigan is right there. Staying at the Canfield House gives you access to both. You can spend the morning at the M-22 turnaround watching the waves crash and the evening sitting on the B&B porch with a glass of wine, looking at the stillness of Portage.
Why Manistee County is the Better "Up North"
Traverse City is crowded. There, I said it. If you try to go to a winery in Leelanau on a Saturday in July, you’re basically standing in a Disney World line for a $14 pour of Riesling. Onekama and nearby Manistee offer a different speed.
- The North Pierhead Lighthouse: A short drive away, and it’s one of the most photographed spots in the state for a reason.
- The Arcadia Overlook: Just up M-22. It’s nicknamed "Inspiration Point," which sounds cheesy until you’re standing 800 feet above the water looking at the curve of the earth.
- The Golf: If you’re into that, Arcadia Bluffs is right there. It’s world-class, but honestly, even the smaller local courses are gorgeous.
The Canfield House Bed and Breakfast acts as your home base for all of this. It’s positioned perfectly on the M-22 trail, which is arguably the most beautiful drive in the United States (sorry, California, the PCH is great, but it doesn't have the fall colors).
Navigating the Myths
People sometimes think staying in a historic B&B means you have to be "on" or formal. No. The current vibe is very much "come as you are." You’ll see hikers in muddy boots sitting in the parlor next to couples in wedding attire. The owners understand that the house is the star, and they’re just the curators.
💡 You might also like: Flights from San Diego to New Jersey: What Most People Get Wrong
Is it haunted? Everyone asks that about houses built in 1900. There aren't any documented "ghost stories" that the owners push for marketing, but let’s be real—any house this old has a memory. It feels "full," but in a comforting, "grandma's house" kind of way, not a "shining" kind of way.
Practical Realities: What to Know Before You Book
You need to plan. This isn't a place with 500 rooms. It’s intimate. If you’re trying to book a weekend in October for the color change, you probably should have done it six months ago.
- Check the Seasonality: Some parts of the house are better suited for summer (breezy porches), while others are cozy for winter. Northern Michigan winters are brutal but beautiful. If you stay at the Canfield House in February, bring a book. A big one.
- M-22 is a Lifestyle: If you’re staying here, you’re committing to the drive. There isn't an Uber around the corner. You’ll be driving to Manistee or Frankfort for dinner.
- Connectivity: They have Wi-Fi, but don't expect 5G speeds in a house with walls built of foot-thick timber. It’s a place to unplug.
The Future of the Canfield Legacy
Preserving a place like the Canfield House Bed and Breakfast is an uphill battle against rot, taxes, and the changing tastes of travelers. But there’s a reason it hasn't been turned into condos. There is a specific type of traveler—maybe it's you—who craves the creak of a real wood floor and the history of a family that helped build the American Midwest.
When you leave, you don't just feel like you stayed at a hotel. You feel like you've been a temporary custodian of a very old, very beautiful secret. Onekama isn't trying to be the next big tourist trap, and the Canfield House isn't trying to be a boutique hotel. It’s just itself. And honestly? That’s plenty.
How to make the most of your trip
- Book directly. Seriously, small B&Bs hate the big booking sites because they take a massive cut. Call them. Talk to the innkeeper. You'll get better info and usually a better room.
- Pack layers. Even in July, the wind off Lake Michigan can turn a 80-degree day into a 60-degree evening in about ten minutes.
- Explore the "Ditch." Go down to the channel where Portage Lake meets Lake Michigan. It’s a great spot to see the engineering history of the area.
- Eat at the local spots. Skip the chains in Manistee. Go to the little roadside stands for smoked fish or local peaches.
Staying at the Canfield House Bed and Breakfast is about slowing down. It's about taking the long way home. It’s about realizing that sometimes, the best way to move forward is to spend a few nights in the past.