You’re staring at it. That spiderweb of glass creeping across your screen after a clumsy sidewalk encounter. It’s devastating. You want the new model, but that shimmering "up to $800 off" promotion feels like a cruel joke now. Can I trade in a cracked iPhone and actually get a decent price, or am I basically holding a paperweight?
Honestly, the answer is a messy "yes, but."
Most people think a cracked screen is a death sentence for trade-in value. It isn't. Apple, Best Buy, and the big carriers like Verizon or AT&T will absolutely take your damaged device. However, the math changes instantly the moment you check that "yes" box next to the damage question. You’re moving from "top-tier value" to "salvage value." But here is the kicker: in the 2026 market, "damaged" doesn't always mean "zero."
The Big Three: Where Your Cracks Matter Most
Apple’s official trade-in program is notoriously picky. If you have a tiny hairline fracture that doesn't affect the touch response, they might—and I mean might—be lenient, but don't count on it. Usually, a cracked front or back glass on an iPhone 14 or 15 drops the value by 50% to 70% compared to a pristine unit. For example, if a mint iPhone 15 Pro Max fetches $650, a cracked one might only net you $200 in Apple Store credit. It hurts.
Carriers play a different game. This is where you can actually "win" with a broken phone.
Verizon and AT&T frequently run "Any Year, Any Condition" promotions. I’ve seen cases where a shattered iPhone 12—literally missing chunks of glass—qualified for $800 in bill credits toward an iPhone 16 or 17. Why? Because they aren't buying your hardware to resell it; they are buying your loyalty for the next 36 months. They want you locked into a high-tier unlimited plan. If you’re willing to stay put, your cracked screen might be worth more to a carrier than a perfect screen is to a third-party recycler.
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Then you have the local "We Buy Phones" kiosks or sites like Gazelle and Back Market. These folks are looking at the parts. They care if the FaceID still works and if the OLED underneath the glass is bleeding ink. If the display has black spots or vertical lines, your trade-in value hits rock bottom.
Is the Back Glass Different?
This is a huge point of confusion. On older models, like the iPhone 11 or 12, the back glass was notoriously difficult and expensive to fix because it was fused to the chassis. Apple technicians basically had to replace the entire internal housing. Consequently, a cracked back was treated almost as harshly as a cracked front.
Things changed starting with the iPhone 14 (base model) and the iPhone 15 Pro series. Apple redesigned the internals so the back glass is a separate, removable panel. This makes it cheaper to fix. If you’re asking can I trade in a cracked iPhone with only back damage, you might find the penalty is slightly less severe than it used to be, provided the camera lenses are still intact. If those sapphire lens covers are smashed? All bets are off.
The "Repair vs. Trade" Math
Should you fix it before trading it in? This is where most people lose money.
Let's do some quick, real-world math. Say you have an iPhone 14 Pro with a shattered screen.
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- Trade-in value (Cracked): $150
- Trade-in value (Flawless): $400
- Cost of Apple Original Screen Repair: $329
If you spend $329 to increase your trade-in value by $250, you just lost $79 and a lot of your Saturday afternoon. It makes zero sense. The only time it's worth fixing a screen before a trade-in is if you have AppleCare+. With a $29 screen replacement deductible, you spend thirty bucks to gain hundreds in trade-in equity. That’s a no-brainer.
If you don't have insurance, third-party repair shops are tempting. But be careful. Many trade-in programs—especially Apple’s—can detect non-genuine parts. If a "Parts and Service History" warning appears in your iOS settings because the local mall kiosk used a cheap aftermarket screen, the trade-in partner might reject the device entirely or downgrade it to "third-party modified" status, which is often valued lower than "original but cracked."
Hidden Factors That Kill Value Faster Than a Crack
A crack is visible. It’s obvious. But there are invisible "cracks" that turn your trade-in into a $0 recycling project.
- The "Inky" Display: If your screen has those purple or black blobs (dead pixels), that isn't just a cracked screen anymore. That's a "damaged display." Most systems treat this much more harshly.
- Swollen Batteries: If your screen is lifting away from the frame because the battery is expanding, do not mail that phone. It’s a fire hazard. No legitimate trade-in program will accept it via mail.
- Find My iPhone: This is the #1 reason trade-ins fail. If you can't see the screen to turn off "Find My," you have a brick. You’ll need to log into iCloud.com on a computer to remove the device from your account remotely. If you don't, you won't get a dime.
- FaceID Failure: If the crack runs directly over the TrueDepth camera (the notch or Dynamic Island area) and disables FaceID, the phone's value plummeted. Resellers hate this because FaceID components are serialized and extremely difficult to repair compared to a standard screen swap.
Where to Get the Most Cash Right Now
If the big carriers aren't offering a "condition-blind" promo, your best bet is often a specialized recycler. Companies like ItsWorthMore, Decluttr, or SellCell act as aggregators. They are often more transparent than the automated kiosks you find in grocery stores.
When you use these sites, be brutally honest. If you describe a phone as "Good" and it shows up with a hairline crack, they will hit you with a "re-evaluation" email that offers you pennies. If you select "Cracked" from the start, the price they quote is usually what you actually get.
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Why You Should Avoid the Automated Kiosks
You've seen them—the big green machines. They’re convenient, sure. But they generally offer the lowest prices in the industry. They have high overhead and they’re paying for the convenience of instant cash. If you can wait three days for a mail-in kit, you’ll almost always make an extra $50 to $100.
Actionable Steps to Take Before Shipping Your Broken Phone
Don't just toss your cracked iPhone into a box and hope for the best. Protect your data and your wallet.
- Document Everything: Take high-resolution photos of the phone from every angle, including the screen being powered on (if possible). Take a video of you turning off the device and placing it in the shipping box. Disputes happen constantly where a "cracked" phone becomes a "non-powering" phone during transit.
- The iCloud Wipe: Go to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Erase All Content and Settings. This is non-negotiable.
- Remove the SIM: You’d be surprised how many people leave their SIM cards (and their data) in the tray. If you have an eSIM, ensure it's deleted during the reset process.
- Use the Right Box: If the screen is already cracked, it’s structurally compromised. A small bump in the mail could turn a single crack into a shattered mess. Use bubble wrap. Don't use a plain envelope.
The Bottom Line: You can definitely trade in a cracked iPhone. Just don't let the marketing hype convince you that it’s worth the full price unless you’re signing a multi-year contract with a carrier. If you're looking for raw cash, expect a significant haircut, but never settle for $0. Even a broken iPhone has gold, cobalt, and usable chips inside that have real market value.
Check your carrier's current "damaged phone" promos first—they are currently the only way to get "new phone" money for "old, broken" hardware. If you aren't looking to switch plans, a specialized online recycler is your next best move.