Oakland's dining scene moves fast. One minute everyone is talking about a new pop-up in Temescal, and the next, a Michelin-rated spot is closing its doors because of rising rents or shifting tastes. But Calavera Bar and Grill has managed to sit right in the center of the Hive—that trendy architectural pocket in Uptown—since 2015 without losing its soul. It’s a feat. Honestly, keeping a massive, high-ceilinged mezcaleria relevant for over a decade in the East Bay takes more than just good lighting and a decent happy hour. It takes a serious commitment to the regional diversity of Mexico, which is something most "taco joints" just don't get right.
You walk in and the first thing you notice isn't the food. It’s the wall of agave.
The Mezcal Obsession at Calavera Bar and Grill
Most people think they know tequila. They’ve had the shots, they’ve had the bad hangovers. But Calavera treats agave spirits like a master class. They don’t just stock the big names you see in airport duty-free shops. We are talking about small-batch, ancestral, and artisanal mezcals that taste like smoke, earth, and sometimes even blue cheese or tropical fruit. It’s intense. The bar program was famously built by experts like Michael Iglesias and Charlie Hallowell (though leadership has shifted over the years), focusing on the "Oaxacan kitchen" philosophy.
If you're sitting at the long bar, look at the bottles. You’ll see labels from distilleries that don’t even have websites. This isn't just about getting a buzz; it's about the chemistry of the plant. They use salt rims that are actually made with crushed agave worms (sal de gusano), which sounds sort of intimidating until you taste how it cuts through the acidity of a lime. It’s authentic. It’s gritty. It’s exactly what Uptown needed to bridge the gap between "fancy dining" and "street food roots."
Why the Tortilleria is the Heart of the Operation
You can tell a lot about a Mexican restaurant by its tortillas. If they’re pulling them out of a plastic bag, just leave. Seriously. At Calavera Bar and Grill, the tortilla program is a dedicated craft. They use non-GMO landrace corn imported directly from Mexico. They nixtamalize it in-house. This is a scientific process involving alkaline solutions to break down the corn, and it’s why the tortillas there have that specific, nutty weight to them.
They aren't flimsy. They hold up to the heavy sauces.
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Take the duck confit tacos, for example. In a lesser kitchen, the fat from the duck would turn a standard tortilla into a soggy mess in about thirty seconds. Here, the heirloom corn stands its ground. It’s a texture thing. Most diners don't realize they're eating a piece of agricultural history, but they know it tastes "different" than the stuff at the grocery store. That "different" is actually just the taste of corn before industrial farming got a hold of it.
The Mole Problem
People often complain that mole is too sweet or too bitter. Calavera’s kitchen usually has a few variations going, ranging from the dark, chocolatey Poblano to the bright, herbaceous Verde. Making a real mole takes days. It’s a grind—literally. Spices, nuts, chiles, and seeds have to be toasted and pulverized. If you see a mole on the menu here, order it. It’s the ultimate litmus test for a Mexican chef’s patience.
The Atmosphere: Aesthetics vs. Reality
Let's talk about the room. It’s beautiful. Large windows look out onto Broadway and the Hive’s interior courtyard. The reclaimed wood and the "Day of the Dead" inspired artwork (Calavera means "skull") give it a vibe that is undeniably cool. But it can get loud. Like, "I can't hear what you said about your promotion" loud. On a Friday night, the energy is electric, but if you’re looking for a quiet, romantic corner to whisper secrets, this might not be it.
It's a social hub. You go there to see people. You go there to feel the pulse of Oakland.
The outdoor seating is where the magic happens during an East Bay summer. Sitting outside with a "Salt and Smoke" margarita while the sun hits the Brickyard building across the street is basically the peak Oakland experience. It’s urban, it’s slightly chaotic, and it’s perfectly curated.
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Misconceptions About "Authenticity"
There is a weird trap restaurants fall into where they have to be "authentic" or "modern." Calavera ignores that binary. Is it authentic to serve grasshoppers (chapulines)? Yes, they are a staple protein in Oaxaca. Is it modern to serve them in a sleek bar in California with a $16 cocktail? Also yes.
Some critics argue that the prices are high for "Mexican food." This is a tired argument that devalues the labor involved in traditional techniques. When you’re hand-pressing every tortilla and sourcing sustainable seafood, the price reflects the cost of doing things the right way. It’s not "expensive Mexican food"; it’s high-quality cuisine that happens to be Mexican.
- The Salsa Flight: Don't skip it. It usually comes with three distinct heat levels and flavor profiles.
- The Ceviche: They tend to keep it seasonal. If there's a scallop version on the menu, get it. The acidity is always perfectly balanced.
- The Mezcal Flights: If you're a beginner, ask the bartender for the "Introduction to Agave." It'll change your life.
Navigating the Menu
If you’re overwhelmed, start with the basics. The guacamole is topped with toasted pepitas, which gives it a crunch that most places miss. Then move to the bigger plates. The Barbacoa is usually a standout—slow-cooked, tender, and seasoned with a depth that suggests the meat has been marinating since yesterday.
They also do a surprisingly good job with vegetarian options. It’s not just an afterthought. Roasted cauliflower or mushroom-based tacos often show up on the seasonal rotations, treated with the same respect as the pork or beef.
What You Need to Know Before You Go
Parking in Uptown Oakland is a nightmare. Don't even try to find a spot on the street right in front of the restaurant on a weekend. Use the parking garage on 19th Street or just take BART to the 19th St Station—it’s a short walk and saves you the headache.
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Reservations are basically mandatory if you want a table between 6:00 PM and 8:30 PM. If you’re a walk-in, your best bet is the bar. It’s first-come, first-served, and honestly, it’s the best seat in the house anyway because you get to watch the bartenders work their magic with the shakers.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit:
- Check the "Rare" List: Ask if they have any "Pechuga" mezcals available. These are distilled with seasonal fruits and sometimes even a raw turkey or chicken breast hung over the still. It sounds wild, but it adds a savory body to the spirit that is unlike anything else.
- Timing is Everything: Go for an early dinner (around 5:15 PM) if you want to actually talk to your date. Go after 9:00 PM if you want to soak up the bar scene.
- The Hive Community: Since Calavera is part of The Hive, you can make a whole afternoon of it. Grab a beer at Drake’s Dealership next door first, then head to Calavera for dinner.
- Order the Chapulines: Just do it. They are toasted with lime and chile. They taste like crispy, salty snacks and are the perfect pairing for a neat pour of mezcal.
- Watch the Seasonal Rotation: The menu changes. If you see a soft-shell crab taco or a specific fruit-based aguachile, grab it before it disappears next month.
Calavera isn't trying to be a neighborhood taqueria. It’s a high-concept, high-execution tribute to the complexity of Mexican regional cooking. It’s a place that respects the ingredient enough to let it shine, but isn't afraid to put it in a fancy glass and charge a premium for the experience. In a city like Oakland, that balance is exactly why it’s still standing.
For your next visit, skip the standard tequila soda. Lean into the smoke. Order the darkest mole on the menu. Understand that you are paying for the hours of nixtamalization and the generations of Oaxacan tradition that made its way to Broadway.