You’ve seen it. Even if you don’t know the name, you’ve seen it in a Bond villain's lair, a high-end therapist’s office, or that one tech CEO’s living room on Instagram. We're talking about the Eames lounge chair original, a piece of furniture that somehow managed to become the universal symbol for "I’ve made it."
But here’s the thing. Most people looking for one end up totally confused by the secondary market, the knockoffs, and the weirdly specific history of Charles and Ray Eames.
When Charles Eames set out to design this thing in the mid-1950s, he didn't want to make a museum piece. He famously said he wanted the chair to have the "warm, receptive look of a well-used first baseman's mitt." That’s it. He wanted a place for people to collapse after a long day. He wasn't trying to create a status symbol, yet here we are, seventy years later, and it’s basically the most famous chair in the world.
Why the "original" label is actually kind of a trap
If you’re hunting for an Eames lounge chair original, you have to decide what "original" actually means to you. Does it mean a vintage 1956 model with the Brazilian rosewood that’s now endangered and illegal to harvest? Or does it mean a brand-new one from Herman Miller or Vitra?
Honestly, both are "original" in their own way.
Herman Miller has been making these in Michigan since day one. Vitra handles the European market. If it’s not from one of those two, it’s a replica. Simple as that. But the vintage market is a different beast entirely.
If you find a chair from the late 50s, you’re looking at three-layer plywood shells instead of the seven layers they use now. It’s thinner. It’s more fragile. It’s also arguably more beautiful because of that old-growth rosewood grain. But you can't just buy those at a shop. You have to hunt.
Spotting a real 670 and 671 in the wild
The chair is officially known as the 670, and the ottoman is the 671. If you're looking at a listing and it doesn't mention those numbers, be skeptical.
One of the biggest giveaways of a fake is the base. A real Eames lounge chair original has a very specific "contract" base. The legs on the chair have a slight pitch, while the ottoman has four legs, not five. If you see five legs on an ottoman, it’s a fake. Every time. No exceptions.
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Then there’s the hardware.
On a real Eames, you won’t see any screws through the wood shells. None. The "magic" of the chair is how the cushions and the armrests are held together by internal clips and rubber shock mounts. These shock mounts are actually the Achilles' heel of the chair. They’re made of rubber, and rubber dries out. If you buy a vintage 1970s model, there is a very high chance the back is going to snap off because the glue failed.
It’s a design flaw that collectors actually love because it proves the chair is authentic. Kind of weird, right?
The rosewood controversy and the shift to sustainable wood
For decades, the Eames lounge chair original was defined by its dark, oily Brazilian Rosewood. It was gorgeous. It was also a disaster for the rainforests.
In the early 90s, Herman Miller stopped using it. They switched to Walnut and Cherry. Later, they added "Santos Palisander," which looks like the old rosewood but is sustainably sourced. If someone tries to sell you a "brand new" Brazilian Rosewood chair, they’re lying. Or they’re selling you something that’s been sitting in a crate since 1991.
The wood is molded using heat and pressure. It’s basically a plywood sandwich. Charles and Ray spent years perfecting this during WWII while making leg splints for the Navy. That’s where the tech came from. They took medical technology and turned it into a luxury lounge chair.
The feel: Why the leather matters more than you think
You don't just sit in an Eames lounge chair original; you sort of float at a 15-degree angle. That angle is fixed. It doesn't recline. If it reclines, it’s not an Eames.
The cushions are another story.
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On the modern versions, you can choose between different leather grades. The "MCL" leather is the premium stuff—it’s thinner, more breathable, and develops a patina. The standard leather is thicker and more protected.
If you’re buying vintage, the leather might be "crackle-y." Some people hate that. Others pay a premium for it. There’s a specific type of leather from the 60s called "Contract Leather" that was almost indestructible. You see those in old libraries or law firms. They aren't as soft as the new ones, but they’ll outlive your grandkids.
How to verify what you're actually buying
- Look under the chair. There should be a black rectangular label. If it’s from the 50s or 60s, it might be a round foil sticker.
- Check the "ears." The armrests should be connected to the back and seat shells with those rubber shock mounts I mentioned. If you see bolts through the wood, walk away.
- Count the plies. Look at the edge of the wood. You should see distinct layers.
- Feel the weight. These things are heavy. The cast aluminum base isn't flimsy.
- Smell it. Seriously. High-end leather and old wood have a specific scent. Fakes often smell like industrial glue and plastic.
The price of entry
Let's talk money. A new Eames lounge chair original is going to set you back anywhere from $6,000 to $9,000 depending on the wood and leather.
Vintage prices are all over the map.
A beat-up 1980s model might go for $4,500. A pristine 1956 first-edition with rosewood shells can easily fetch $15,000 or more at auction. Is it worth it?
From a purely functional standpoint, maybe not. You can buy a very comfortable recliner for $800. But people don't buy an Eames because they need a chair. They buy it because they want a piece of the 20th century in their living room. It’s an investment. Unlike most furniture that ends up in a landfill, these chairs actually hold their value. Sometimes they even appreciate.
Maintenance: Keeping the dream alive
If you actually buy one, don't just let it sit there. The leather needs to be conditioned once or twice a year. Use a high-quality leather cream, not the cheap spray-on stuff.
And for the love of everything holy, keep it out of direct sunlight.
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The UV rays will bleach the wood shells and dry out the leather faster than you can say "Mid-Century Modern." If the wood starts to look dull, a little bit of lemon oil or a specialized furniture wax can bring it back to life.
If the shock mounts feel wiggly? Stop sitting in it immediately. If the back snaps, you’re looking at a very expensive repair that requires a specialist. There are people whose entire careers consist of just fixing these specific chairs. Hume Modern in California is one of the big names. They’re like heart surgeons for furniture.
Actionable steps for the aspiring collector
If you're serious about getting an Eames lounge chair original, don't rush into a Facebook Marketplace deal that looks "too good to be true." It is.
Start by visiting an authorized dealer like Design Within Reach or a Herman Miller showroom. Sit in a brand-new one. Feel the tension of the leather. Observe how the base swivels. This gives you a baseline for what "real" feels like.
Next, decide on your era. If you want the "mitt" feel, look for a "Tall" version if you’re over six feet. Herman Miller recently started making a larger version because humans are, well, bigger than they were in 1956. The original size can feel a bit small for modern frames.
Check the secondary market sites like 1stDibs or Wright Auctions for historical pricing. If you find a vintage one, ask for photos of the underside and the shock mounts. If the seller won't provide them, move on. An authentic chair is a documented chair.
Finally, verify the production markings. Every chair made in the last few decades has a certificate of authenticity and a label on the underside of the shell. If that's missing on a relatively "new" used chair, it's a massive red flag. Stick to your gut; if the proportions look "off"—usually the fake ones have a headrest that’s too big or a base that’s too shiny—it’s probably a knockoff. Ownership of this chair is about the details, and the details are where the fakes always fail.