So, you’re looking at your backyard and thinking a pool would be nice. You aren’t alone. But then you see the price tag on an inground gunite build—basically the cost of a luxury SUV—and suddenly an above ground metal pool starts looking like a genius move. Honestly, it usually is. But there is a massive difference between the flimsy "disposable" pools you see at big-box retailers and a legitimate steel or aluminum hard-sided structure.
Metal pools are the workhorses of the backyard world. They don’t pop like inflatables. They don't lean like resin-only frames might if the ground shifts a quarter-inch. They just sit there, taking a beating from the sun and the kids, for twenty years if you treat them right.
But here is the thing.
Most people buy these based on the photo on the box, which is a mistake. You need to understand the metallurgy. Steel and aluminum are the two heavy hitters here, and they aren't interchangeable. Steel is the traditional choice, often galvanized with a zinc coating to fight off the inevitable march of rust. Aluminum? It’s the premium upgrade. It doesn’t rust. It oxidizes, sure, but it won't flake away into nothingness after a decade of salt-chlorine exposure.
Why the Above Ground Metal Pool is Making a Massive Comeback
For a while, everyone wanted "soft-sided" pools because they were cheap. You could set them up in an afternoon. Then people realized that a stray tree branch or a hyperactive dog could end the summer fun in roughly four seconds. That’s why the above ground metal pool is seeing a huge resurgence in 2026. People want permanence without the permanent debt.
A metal wall pool offers structural integrity. You can actually lean against the top rail without feeling like the whole thing is going to fold like a card table. More importantly, these pools are "buttress-free" nowadays. If you’ve ever seen an old-school oval pool, it probably had these giant metal "legs" sticking out the sides that took up half your yard. Modern engineering has mostly moved past that, using underground straps to hold the tension. It looks cleaner. It fits in smaller yards.
Let’s talk about the "all-resin" myth. Some retailers will tell you resin is better because it can't rust. That's true for the rails and the uprights, but the wall of that pool is almost always still metal. Why? Because resin isn't strong enough to hold back twenty thousand gallons of water on its own without being three feet thick. So, even in a "resin" pool, you're usually still dealing with a metal core.
Steel vs. Aluminum: The Real Dirty Details
If you’re on a budget, steel is your friend. But it’s not just "steel." Look for G90 galvanization. This is a measurement of the zinc coating. Most cheap pools use a thinner coating that starts to fail the moment a scratch hits the surface. Brands like Wilbar Group or Doughboy (the literal pioneers of this industry) use multi-layered coatings. We're talking a steel core, followed by a zinc layer, then a primer, then a liquid vinyl or polyester finish.
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Aluminum is different. It’s lighter, which makes DIY installation a lot less of a back-breaking nightmare. It's also better for salt-water systems. If you want a saltwater pool, do not—under any circumstances—buy a cheap steel pool. The salt will find a microscopic scratch and eat the wall from the inside out. For salt, you go aluminum or a very high-end resin-hybrid.
The Installation Nightmare Nobody Talks About
You can buy the best above ground metal pool in the world, and it will still fail if your ground is off by an inch. I’m not exaggerating.
Water is heavy. Really heavy.
One gallon of water weighs about 8.34 pounds. A standard 24-foot round pool holds about 13,500 gallons. That is over 112,000 pounds of pressure pushing down and out on your yard. If the ground isn't perfectly leveled on "virgin" soil—meaning you didn't just dump a bunch of loose dirt in a hole to level it—the pool will shift. When a metal pool shifts, the wall can buckle. A buckled wall is a dead pool.
You have to dig down to the lowest point. Never build up to the high point.
And then there is the "sand vs. foam" debate. Traditionally, you put a couple of inches of masonry sand under the liner. It's cheap. It works. But over time, you get "heel prints" in the floor. If you have the extra couple hundred bucks, get the foam floor padding and "coving." The cove is that little wedge that goes between the floor and the wall. In the old days, we made those out of dirt. Use the pre-made foam ones. They prevent the liner from slipping under the metal wall track, which is the number one cause of catastrophic blowouts.
The Maintenance Reality Check
A metal pool isn't a "set it and forget it" situation. You have to watch the "skimmer" area. This is where the water leaves the pool to go to the filter. Because you have to cut a hole in the metal wall to install the skimmer, that raw edge of metal is vulnerable.
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Most leaks start here. If a small leak develops at the skimmer gasket and you don't notice it, that water will sit against the metal wall behind the liner. You won't see the rust until it's too late and the wall looks like Swiss cheese.
Pro tip: Every spring, take a peek behind the decorative "upright" covers. Check the base of the wall. If you see white powder (on aluminum) or red flakes (on steel), you have a moisture problem that needs fixing immediately.
Winterizing Without Losing Your Mind
If you live where it freezes, you don't drain an above ground metal pool. If you drain it, the wind will catch that metal wall like a giant sail and crumble it into a heap of scrap metal. You keep it nearly full.
You need an "air pillow." You blow it up, float it in the middle, and pull the winter cover over it. This isn't for buoyancy. It’s for ice expansion. When the water freezes into a giant ice puck, it expands outward. The pillow gives the ice a place to expand "inward" instead of pushing against your metal walls and popping the bolts.
Also, get a "skimmer plate." It’s a plastic cover that screws over the skimmer opening so you don't have to drain the water level below the return lines. Keeping the water level higher provides more internal pressure to fight against winter winds.
What about the "Semi-Inground" Option?
A lot of people ask if they can bury their above ground metal pool.
The answer? "It depends."
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Most standard steel pools are not designed for the weight of the dirt pushing in when the pool is empty. If you drain it to change the liner, the earth will cave the walls in. However, some specific models—like the Radiant Pools or certain Stealth series—use insulated slats or thicker aerospace-grade aluminum that can handle being buried. These are great because you can deck them out so they look like a custom inground pool for a fraction of the cost. Just make sure the manufacturer explicitly states the warranty covers "below-grade" installation. If they don't say it in writing, don't do it.
The Cost of Ownership Breakdown
Don't just look at the kit price. If a pool kit is $3,000, expect to spend $6,000 before you're actually swimming.
- The Kit: Wall, liner, ladder.
- The Equipment: Don't use the tiny pump that comes in the bundle. Get a 1.5 HP sand or cartridge filter.
- The Electrical: You need a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit. Hiring an electrician will cost you $500 to $1,500 depending on how far your breaker box is from the pool.
- The Water: Filling a 15,000-gallon pool from a garden hose takes days and can burn out a well pump. Buying water from a tanker might cost $400-$800.
- The Decking: A metal pool looks... okay. A metal pool with a nice wood or composite deck looks like a resort.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Pool Owner
If you’re ready to pull the trigger, don't just click "buy" on a website. Start with your local permit office. Many townships consider an above ground metal pool a permanent structure once it hits a certain depth (usually 24 or 48 inches). You might need a fence that is at least 4 feet high with a self-closing, self-latching gate.
Next, choose your location carefully. Avoid being under trees—not just because of the leaves, but because of the roots. As roots grow, they can lift the bottom of your pool. Avoid power lines overhead. It’s a massive safety hazard when you’re using a 16-foot metal skimmer pole to clean out bugs.
Finally, shop for the "liner gauge." Not all liners are equal. A "20-gauge" liner is the standard, but it’s often measured in "mil," which isn't the same thing. Look for a "true mil" liner if you can. It’s thicker, handles UV rays better, and won't feel like a cheap shower curtain under your feet.
Once the pool is up, get a robotic cleaner. Seriously. Pushing a vacuum head around a round pool for two hours every Saturday is the fastest way to start hating your investment. Let the robot do it while you're actually in the water with a drink in your hand. That’s the whole point of having a pool anyway.
Next Steps for Your Project:
- Measure your yard to ensure at least 5 feet of clearance from all property lines and structures.
- Contact your local building department to verify "setback" requirements and fencing codes for your specific zip code.
- Check your electrical panel for an open slot to accommodate a new 20-amp dedicated circuit for the pump.
- Order a soil test or simply dig a small pilot hole to ensure you aren't trying to level a site on top of solid bedrock or swampy peat.