You’re staring at the fuel gauge. It's pinned at empty, and you’re still thirty miles from the nearest station in the middle of a Nevada salt flat. That’s the exact moment a 60 gallon gas tank stops being a spec sheet item and becomes a lifeline. Most stock trucks—think your standard F-150 or Silverado—usually roll off the lot with 23 to 36 gallons of capacity. For the average commuter, that’s plenty. But for those of us hauling a 12,000-pound fifth-wheel or overlanding through the backcountry, those factory tanks are a joke. You’re basically tethered to the gas station. It’s annoying. It's also inefficient.
The Reality of Installing a 60 Gallon Gas Tank
Range anxiety isn't just for Tesla owners. When you’re towing heavy, your fuel economy can easily drop into the single digits. If you're getting 8 miles per gallon on a 26-gallon tank, you have a theoretical range of 208 miles. But nobody runs their tank to bone dry. You’re actually looking for a pump every 150 miles. That’s barely two hours of driving.
By upgrading to a 60 gallon gas tank, you're effectively doubling your time on the road. Brands like Transfer Flow, S&B Filters, and Titan Fuel Tanks have built entire businesses around this specific need. But it isn't just about "more is better." It's about weight distribution and engineering. A gallon of gasoline weighs roughly 6 pounds. Diesel is heavier, at about 7 pounds. When you jump from a 30-gallon setup to a 60-gallon one, you’re adding roughly 180 to 210 pounds of dead weight to the chassis.
You have to think about where that weight sits. Most aftermarket 60 gallon gas tank replacements are mid-ship tanks. They sit between the frame rails. This is crucial because it keeps the center of gravity low and centered. If you put that much weight behind the rear axle, your handling would go to trash. The front end would feel light. You'd lose steering precision.
Material Matters: Polyethylene vs. Aluminized Steel
You’ll hear a lot of arguing in the forums about what the tank should be made of.
Titan Fuel Tanks, for instance, uses a high-density cross-linked polyethylene (XLHDPE). It’s basically indestructible. It doesn’t rust, it doesn’t condense water as badly as metal, and it can take a hit from a rock without sparking or shattering. On the flip side, Transfer Flow often sticks to 12-gauge aluminized steel. Why? Because it’s incredibly rigid and meets strict California Air Resources Board (CARB) and EPA requirements for emissions.
Honestly, it depends on where you drive. If you're crawling over jagged rocks in Moab, the flexibility of a high-tech plastic might be your best friend. If you’re a long-haul trucker on the interstate, the structural integrity of steel is hard to beat.
The Hidden Costs Nobody Mentions
Don't just look at the price tag on the website. A high-quality 60 gallon gas tank might cost you $1,200 to $2,500, but the installation is where things get tricky. We're talking about dropped driveshafts. We're talking about recalibrating the Distance to Empty (DTE) on your dashboard.
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If you just swap the tank and drive off, your fuel gauge will be a liar. It will stay on "Full" for 300 miles and then drop like a stone. You usually need an OBD-II programmer—something like a ScanGauge or a custom tune—to tell the truck’s computer that it’s now carrying 60 gallons instead of 30. If you don't do this, the computer gets confused, and in some modern trucks, it can even trigger limp mode because the fuel level sensor readings don't match the expected fuel consumption algorithms.
Why Gasoline Tanks Are Rarer Than Diesel
You might have noticed that most of the huge replacement tanks on the market are for diesel trucks. There's a reason for that. Safety.
Gasoline is volatile. It’s explosive. Diesel is a combustible oil. Because of this, the EPA has much stricter "evaporative emission" rules for gas vehicles. A 60 gallon gas tank for a petrol engine has to have a complex venting system to catch fumes. If the tank isn't designed perfectly, you'll constantly smell fumes, or worse, your "Check Engine" light will be a permanent fixture on your dash due to EVAP system codes.
This is why companies like S&B Filters spent years perfecting their gas-specific tanks. They had to ensure that the charcoal canister—the part of your car that "scrubs" gas fumes—can handle the increased volume of air displaced when you fill up 60 gallons at once.
Practical Logistics: The Pump Struggle
Think about the gas station. Most standard pumps at a Shell or Chevron have a "timeout" or a credit card limit. Usually, it’s $100 or $150. If gas is $4.00 a gallon, and you're filling a 60 gallon gas tank from empty, you're looking at a $240 bill.
You’re going to have to swipe your card twice.
Every. Single. Time.
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It’s a minor annoyance, but it’s something people forget. Also, you become the person blocking the pump for 15 minutes. At a high-flow diesel island (the big truck stops like Love's or Flying J), this isn't an issue. But at a neighborhood gas station, the flow rate is much slower. You'll have time to go inside, buy a sandwich, use the restroom, and come back out, and it'll still be clicking away at 45 gallons.
Range Comparison: 30 vs. 60 Gallons
| Scenario | 30 Gallon Range (est.) | 60 Gallon Range (est.) |
|---|---|---|
| Towing (8 MPG) | 240 miles | 480 miles |
| Highway (15 MPG) | 450 miles | 900 miles |
| Overlanding (10 MPG) | 300 miles | 600 miles |
Look at those highway numbers. 900 miles. You could drive from Los Angeles to Salt Lake City and still have fuel left for dinner. That’s the real value. It’s not just about saving money (though you can hunt for cheaper gas stations since you aren't desperate); it’s about the freedom of the road.
The Overlanding Perspective
If you’re into overlanding—basically fancy camping in hard-to-reach places—a 60 gallon gas tank is a game changer. Most guys carry "Jerry cans" or RotopaX on their roof racks. They’re heavy. They leak. They make the truck top-heavy, which is the last thing you want on a side-tilt trail.
Replacing the main tank puts that extra fuel weight beneath the frame. It’s safer. It’s cleaner. And you don’t have to worry about someone stealing your fuel cans off the back of your rig while you’re grabbed a coffee in town.
Is It Worth the Investment?
Let's be real. If you just drive to work and back, this is a waste of money. You're hauling around 200 extra pounds for no reason, which slightly hurts your fuel economy. But if you’re a hotshot driver, a serious camper, or someone who lives in a remote area where the next gas station is 100 miles away, it's one of the best mods you can do.
Most users report that the "payback" isn't in dollars saved—it’s in stress removed. No more worrying if the gas station in that tiny town is open after 6 PM. No more unhooking the trailer just to fit into a cramped station because you're running on fumes.
Maintenance and Longevity
These tanks are built to outlast the truck. Because they are often thicker than the OEM plastic tanks, they offer better protection against road debris. However, you should inspect the mounting straps once a year. That extra weight puts more stress on the bolts and brackets. If you’re off-roading, check for any rubbing between the tank and the frame.
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Also, consider your fuel pump. Most 60 gallon gas tank kits allow you to reuse your factory fuel pump. Since the tank is deeper or longer, the fuel pump module sits in a "sump" or a recessed area to ensure it can still pick up fuel when the tank is low.
Moving Forward With Your Upgrade
Before you pull the trigger and buy a massive tank, you need to do three things.
First, check your payload capacity. Adding 200+ pounds of fuel eats into how much weight you can put in the bed or how much tongue weight your trailer can have.
Second, verify your wheelbase. A 60 gallon gas tank designed for a Crew Cab Long Bed will absolutely not fit a Regular Cab Short Bed. There simply isn't enough physical room between the transmission and the rear axle.
Third, find a shop that has done this before. This isn't a simple "bolt-on" like a cold air intake. It involves fuel lines, EVAP systems, and potential computer reprogramming.
Once it’s in, though? The first time you fill up and see "950 miles to empty" on your dashboard, you’ll know exactly why you did it. You’re no longer a slave to the map. You just drive.
- Check Local Regulations: Some states have specific rules about modified fuel systems, especially for gasoline vehicles.
- Update Your Insurance: Let your provider know about the modification so it’s covered in the event of an accident.
- Recalibrate Your Gauges: Use a tool like FORScan (for Ford owners) or a dealership tech to update the tank size in the ECU.
- Monitor Your First Few Drives: Check for leaks at the filler neck and the fuel pump seal after the first full tank.