Winter is coming. For anyone living in USDA zones 4 through 6, that sentence isn't a TV reference—it’s a warning. You see the neighbor’s yard start to look like a collection of beige ghosts as they break out the rolls of fabric. They’re using burlap for wrapping shrubs, thinking they’re doing the right thing. But honestly? Half of them are doing it wrong. They’re creating a humid, fungal death trap for their boxwoods or literally suffocating their evergreens.
It’s a weird paradox. We wrap plants to save them from the cold, yet the cold isn't usually what kills them. It’s the wind. It’s the "winter burn." It’s that January sun that tricks the plant into thinking it’s spring, only for the temperature to crater at midnight.
If you’ve ever pulled off a burlap shroud in April only to find a skeleton of brittle, brown needles, you know the heartbreak. This isn't about just throwing a sack over a bush. It’s about physics, transpiration, and knowing when to leave well enough alone.
The Science of Why Burlap for Wrapping Shrubs Actually Works
Let’s get technical for a second. Plants don't "feel" wind chill like humans do, but they suffer from it far more. Evergreens, like Rhododendrons or Yews, keep their leaves all winter. Those leaves have moisture. When a dry, freezing north wind whips across them, it sucks the moisture right out of the foliage. This is desiccation. Because the ground is frozen, the roots can't pump up new water to replace what was lost. The plant essentially dies of thirst in the middle of a snowstorm.
Burlap acts as a windbreak. It’s a breathable barrier. Unlike plastic—which you should never use because it turns your shrub into a microwave the moment the sun hits it—burlap allows some air exchange while breaking the force of the gust.
According to the University of Minnesota Extension, the goal is to reduce the "fetch" of the wind. You aren't trying to keep the plant warm; you’re trying to keep it dormant and hydrated. It’s a subtle difference, but it’s the difference between a thriving spring garden and a trip to the nursery to spend four hundred dollars on replacements.
Most People Wrap Too Early (And Too Tight)
Timing is everything. You see people out there in October, sweating in light jackets, stapling burlap. Stop. That’s too early. If you wrap while the plant is still trying to enter dormancy, you’re trapping heat and encouraging late-season growth that will get decimated by the first real frost. You want to wait until the ground is cold and the plant is truly "asleep." Usually, this is after a couple of hard freezes.
And please, stop mummifying your plants.
I see people wrapping the burlap directly against the foliage, cinching it tight with twine like a holiday roast. This is a mistake. When the burlap touches the leaves, it can transfer moisture directly from the plant to the fabric, which then freezes. This causes ice crystals to form on the leaf surface, leading to tissue collapse.
The "pro" way? The screen method.
Instead of a wrap, think of it as a fence. You drive three or four wooden stakes into the ground around the shrub. Then, you staple the burlap for wrapping shrubs to the stakes, leaving a 3-inch gap between the fabric and the branches. This creates a pocket of still air. It blocks the wind but lets the plant breathe. It also prevents heavy snow from accumulating on the branches and snapping them. If you’re dealing with a multi-stemmed evergreen like an Arborvitae, heavy snow loads are your primary enemy. A screen protects against both wind and weight.
The Problem With Salt
If you live near a road, your shrubs aren't just fighting the cold. They’re fighting the city's salt trucks. Salt spray from passing cars is incredibly corrosive to evergreen needles. In these cases, burlap isn't just a windbreak; it’s a shield. A study from Cornell University’s Urban Horticulture Institute emphasizes that salt spray can travel over 50 feet from high-speed roads. If your hemlocks are near the curb, that burlap screen is the only thing standing between them and a slow, salty death.
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Which Shrubs Actually Need the Help?
Not everything needs a coat. Your native oaks? They’re fine. Your established lilacs? They can handle it. You need to focus your energy on the "divas" of the garden.
- Broadleaf Evergreens: This is the big one. Pieris, Mountain Laurel, and especially Rhododendrons. Their large leaf surface area makes them incredibly prone to wilting.
- Newly Planted Shrubs: Anything put in the ground in the last 12 to 18 months hasn't established a deep enough root system to fight off winter drought. They need the help.
- Marginal Zone Plants: If you’re trying to grow a Camellia in Zone 6, you’re pushing your luck. You’d better get the burlap out.
- Hydrangeas (The Finicky Ones): Specifically Hydrangea macrophylla. These bloom on "old wood." If the winter kills the buds on those stems, you won't get a single flower in July. A burlap cage filled with dry oak leaves is the classic "old school" trick to save those buds.
The "Microclimate" Trap
You might have two identical boxwoods. One survives perfectly; the other turns brown. Why? The one that died was likely on the south or southwest side of your house.
This sounds counterintuitive. The south side is warmer, right? Exactly. That’s the problem. In February, the "Southwest Injury" occurs when the sun hits the trunk or leaves, heating them up significantly above the air temperature. The cells wake up. Then, the sun goes down, the temperature drops 40 degrees in an hour, and the active cells freeze and burst.
Using burlap for wrapping shrubs on the sunny side of the house is more about shade than it is about wind. You are literally trying to keep the plant in the dark so it stays cold and safe.
Step-by-Step: The Right Way to Screen
Forget the "burrito" wrap. Do this instead:
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- Step A: Drive 2x2 wooden stakes into the ground before the frost locks the earth. If you wait until December, you’ll be trying to hammer stakes into concrete.
- Step B: Space the stakes about 6 to 12 inches away from the outermost branches.
- Step C: Wrap the burlap around the outside of the stakes. Use a heavy-duty staple gun.
- Step D: Leave the top open. Unless you’re worried about vertical snow load, an open top allows for better air circulation.
- Step E: Secure the bottom. Make sure the burlap doesn't just flap in the wind, or it will shred itself by February.
Maintenance and the Big Reveal
Don't just walk away. After a heavy wet snow, check your screens. If the burlap is sagging and pushing against the plant, shake it off. The goal is zero contact.
Then comes spring. This is where people get impatient. You see a 50-degree day in March and you want to tear the burlap off. Don't. March is the most dangerous month. The "Lion" has teeth. Wait until the ground has thawed and the threat of a deep, sub-zero freeze has passed. Usually, this aligns with when the daffodils start poking their heads up.
When you do take it down, don't throw the burlap away. If it’s high-quality, 10-ounce burlap, you can dry it out, roll it up, and use it for three or four seasons. It’s sustainable, it’s cheap, and it’s honestly one of the best tools in a gardener’s arsenal.
Actionable Next Steps for Winter Success
- Audit your garden today: Identify which shrubs are in the "wind tunnel" between houses or exposed to the southern sun. These are your priority targets.
- Buy "Heavy Duty" grade: Cheap, thin burlap tears easily. Look for 10oz weight; it stands up to the ice much better.
- Get your stakes in now: Before the first hard freeze, hammer in your supports. Even if you don't attach the fabric for another month, you’ll thank yourself when you aren't fighting frozen soil.
- Hydrate before the freeze: The best defense against winter burn isn't burlap—it's water. Give your evergreens a deep, long soak right before the ground freezes solid. A hydrated plant survives a winter wind much better than a thirsty one.
- Avoid the "Plastic Temptation": No matter how much cheaper a plastic tarp is, leave it in the garage. It will cook your plants on a sunny day. Stick to natural, breathable fibers.