Black hair is a gorgeous canvas, but honestly, it can feel a little heavy or one-dimensional after a while. You want a change. You don't want to go platinum blonde because, let’s be real, the maintenance is a nightmare and the bleach damage is terrifying. This is exactly why burgundy hair highlights on black hair have remained the undisputed champion of the salon chair for decades. It’s not just a trend from the 90s making a comeback; it’s a color theory win.
The magic is in the underlying pigment. Naturally dark hair—whether it’s a soft off-black or a deep jet—carries massive amounts of red and blue undertones. When you introduce burgundy, you aren't fighting the hair's natural DNA. You're leaning into it. It’s the difference between forcing a puzzle piece and watching two magnets snap together.
The Science of Why Red Tones Pop on Dark Bases
Most people think "burgundy" is just one color. It’s not. It is a sophisticated blend of brown, red, and a hint of blue-violet. Because it sits on the cooler end of the red spectrum, it doesn't turn that brassy, orange-tinted "accidental ginger" color that often happens when you try to go lighter on dark hair.
Professional colorists, like the ones you'll find at high-end spots like Sally Hershberger or Spoke & Weal, often talk about the "lift" required for certain colors. To get a vibrant red, you have to strip the hair. To get burgundy? You barely have to lift the hair to a level 5 or 6. This means less time under the foil and significantly less structural damage to your cuticle. Your hair stays shiny. Shiny hair reflects light. Reflected light makes the burgundy look like it’s glowing from within rather than just sitting on top of the strands like a coat of paint.
Choosing Your Specific Shade of Wine
Don't just walk into a salon and say "burgundy." That is a recipe for a result you might hate. You need to be specific because burgundy is a spectrum.
If you have a cooler skin tone—think silver jewelry and veins that look blue—you should aim for a merlot or berry-toned burgundy. These have more violet. They make your skin look bright and clear. If you go too warm, you might end up looking a bit washed out or "yellow."
On the flip side, if you have warm, golden, or olive skin, you want a cabernet or spiced wine shade. These lean into the brownish-red territory. They pick up the warmth in your eyes. It’s subtle. It’s sophisticated. It’s the kind of color that people notice only when the sun hits you directly, and then they can't stop looking.
Placement Matters More Than the Color Itself
We need to talk about technique because "highlights" is a broad term. Old-school cap highlights are dead. Forget them.
Balayage is usually the way to go for burgundy hair highlights on black hair. Since the transition is hand-painted, you don't get that "zebra stripe" look at the roots. It grows out like a dream. You could go six months without a touch-up and people will just think you meant for it to look that way. It’s the ultimate low-maintenance move for high-maintenance looks.
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Then there’s Babylights. These are micro-fine strands. If you’re nervous about color, this is your entry point. It creates a shimmer. Think of it like a "filter" for your hair. From a distance, your hair just looks like it has incredible dimension. Up close, the burgundy reveals itself.
For the bold, there’s the Money Piece. This is where you concentrate the burgundy right around the face. It’s a huge trend right now because it brightens the complexion without requiring you to color your whole head. It’s high impact, low effort.
Why Your Burgundy Fades and How to Stop It
Red pigment molecules are huge. This is a literal physical fact of chemistry. Because they are so large, they don't penetrate as deeply into the hair shaft as other colors, and they are the first to get washed away by water.
If you wash your hair with hot water, you are basically opening the door and inviting the color to leave. Use cold water. Or at least lukewarm. It’s uncomfortable, but it’s the price of beauty.
Also, ditch the sulfates. Sulfates are detergents. They are great for cleaning grease off a frying pan, but they are devastating for burgundy highlights. Use a color-depositing conditioner like Viral or Overtone once a week. These products actually put a tiny bit of pigment back into the hair while you condition. It keeps the burgundy "burgundy" instead of it fading into a dull, rusty brown.
The "Bleach" Conversation
Can you get burgundy hair highlights on black hair without bleach?
The short answer is: maybe, but it won't be bright.
If your hair is "virgin" (meaning no previous dye), you can use a high-lift tint. Brands like L'Oreal Excellence HiColor are specifically formulated for dark hair. They lift and deposit at the same time. However, if your hair has been dyed black previously, you must use a lightener. You cannot lift color with more color. That’s a rule of hair color that many people learn the hard way at home. If you try to put burgundy dye over black-dyed hair, you will get nothing but purple-tinted roots and no change on the ends.
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Real World Examples and Celebrity Inspiration
Look at someone like Keke Palmer or Zendaya. They’ve both toyed with deep red and burgundy tones over dark bases. Notice how it never looks "fake." It looks like an extension of their natural vibe.
In the early 2010s, Rihanna went for a bright, fiery red, which was iconic, but it was high stress. The shift we see now in 2024 and 2025 is toward these "expensive" looking burgundies. Think "Black Cherry." It’s a shade that looks black in the shade but explodes into a rich, velvety red in the light. This is the sweet spot.
Maintaining the Health of Dark Hair
Dark hair is often prone to dryness, especially if it’s curly or coily. Adding highlights, even subtle ones, introduces a level of porosity that wasn't there before.
You need protein, but you also need moisture. A balance.
- Step 1: Invest in a silk pillowcase. It sounds extra, but it reduces friction. Friction leads to frizz, and frizz hides the shine of your new highlights.
- Step 2: Use a UV protectant. The sun bleaches hair. It will turn your beautiful burgundy into a weird orange-red within a week of beach trips if you aren't careful.
- Step 3: Bond builders. Products like Olaplex No. 3 or K18 aren't just hype. They actually repair the disulphide bonds that get broken during the highlighting process.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
One of the biggest blunders is choosing a burgundy that is too light. If the contrast between your black base and the highlight is more than three or four levels, it starts to look "stripey" and dated. You want a melt, not a staircase.
Another mistake? Ignoring the eyebrows. If you go for a very intense burgundy, your jet-black eyebrows might look a bit harsh. You don't need to dye them, but maybe use a slightly warmer brow pomade to bridge the gap.
The Cost Factor
Let’s talk money. A full balayage in a major city can run you anywhere from $250 to $600. It’s an investment. However, because burgundy on black hair grows out so naturally, your "cost per wear" is actually lower than if you were a blonde. You’re looking at two or maybe three salon visits a year rather than one every six weeks.
How to Prep for Your Appointment
Don't wash your hair the morning of. The natural oils on your scalp act as a buffer against the chemicals.
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Bring pictures. Your "burgundy" might be someone else's "maroon." Show your stylist three photos of what you love and one photo of what you absolutely hate. The "hate" photo is actually more helpful for a stylist because it defines the boundaries of the project.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Hair Journey
If you're ready to take the plunge into the world of burgundy hair highlights on black hair, don't just wing it at the drugstore.
First, assess your hair's current health. If your hair is snapping when you pull it, wait. Do a month of deep conditioning treatments first.
Second, find a specialist. Look on Instagram for stylists in your area who specifically post photos of "dark hair" or "brunette transformations." If their entire feed is blonde, they might not have the right toners in stock for a complex burgundy.
Third, buy your maintenance products before you get the color. You need that sulfate-free shampoo and color-depositing conditioner ready in your shower for the very first wash.
Finally, schedule your appointment for a day when you don't have a major event immediately after. Red tones can sometimes stain the skin around the hairline for a day or two, and you want time for that to fade before you’re on a stage or at a wedding.
Burgundy is a commitment, but it's one of the few that pays off every time you catch your reflection in a store window. It’s moody, it’s soulful, and it’s arguably the most flattering way to level up black hair without losing your identity in a sea of bleach. High-impact color doesn't have to mean high-stress hair. It just takes the right shade of wine.