You’ve seen the photos. Those deep, wine-drenched ribbons of color catching the light against a midnight-black base. It looks effortless. But honestly, getting burgundy hair highlights for black hair to actually show up—and stay vibrant—is a technical tightrope walk. Most people walk into a salon expecting a quick lift and leave with hair that looks "sorta" reddish in direct sunlight but basically black everywhere else. Or worse, they end up with fried ends because the lightener sat too long on coarse, low-porosity strands.
Black hair is structurally unique. It’s dense. It’s packed with eumelanin. When you try to layer burgundy over it, you aren't just adding color; you're negotiating with the underlying pigments of the hair shaft.
Why Burgundy Highlights on Black Hair Often Fall Flat
Most DIY kits and even some rushed stylists treat burgundy as a "one size fits all" shade. It isn't. Burgundy lives in that sweet spot between violet and red. If your hair is a true Level 1 or 2 (jet black), simply slapping a box dye over it will result in... nothing. You’ll get a tint. Maybe.
To get that "pop," you usually need a lift. We're talking about a developer—usually 20 or 30 volume—to open the cuticle enough for the artificial pigment to live inside. But here is where it gets tricky: black hair pulls warm. As you lift it, it passes through stages of muddy brown and "cheeto" orange. If you don't lift it enough, the burgundy looks like a dull rust. If you lift it too much (to a pale yellow), the burgundy can look neon or pinkish.
You want to aim for a "raw" lift to a dark orange or red-orange stage. That is the perfect canvas. The warmth of the underlying pigment actually supports the richness of the burgundy, giving it that three-dimensional look that looks expensive.
The Specific Shades That Actually Work
Not all burgundies are created equal. You’ve got your maroons, your oxbloods, and your "black cherry" vibes.
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Black Cherry is probably the most requested for a reason. It has a heavy dose of violet. On black hair, this creates a cool-toned contrast that looks incredibly sophisticated. It doesn't scream "I dyed my hair." It whispers. Then you have Mulled Wine. This is much redder. It’s vibrant. It’s for the person who wants people to notice the color from across the street.
Then there is True Merlot. It’s balanced. Not too purple, not too red. If you’re a professional working in a conservative environment, this is your best bet because it looks like a natural extension of your dark base until you step under a halogen light or into the sun.
Texture Matters More Than You Think
If you have 4C hair, the way light hits your coils is different from how it hits 1A straight hair. Coiled hair has more surface area but less "flat" space to reflect light. This means your highlights need to be slightly more saturated or placed in "chunks" (ribbons) rather than fine babylights. If the highlights are too thin, they get "swallowed" by the shadow of the curls.
I’ve seen stylists try to do micro-foils on thick, curly black hair and the result just looks like the hair is dusty. You want bold placement. Think face-framing "money pieces" or a balayage technique that concentrates the burgundy on the mid-lengths and ends where the sun would naturally hit.
The Chemistry of Fading (And How to Stop It)
Red pigment molecules are huge.
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Seriously, they are the "giants" of the hair color world. Because they are so big, they don't penetrate as deeply into the hair shaft as other colors, and they are the first to wash out. This is why your shower looks like a scene from a horror movie the first three times you wash your hair.
To keep your burgundy hair highlights for black hair looking fresh, you have to change your relationship with water. Cold water only. It sucks, especially in the winter, but hot water swings the hair cuticle wide open and lets those expensive red molecules go right down the drain.
Real Expert Advice on Products
Don't buy "color-protecting" shampoo from the grocery store. Most of them are just glorified detergents. You need something sulfate-free, but specifically, you should look for "color-depositing" conditioners. Brands like Overtone or Celeb Luxury make shades like "Extreme Red" or "Purple" that you can mix to match your specific burgundy. Using these once a week acts like a "top-off" for your color. It fills in the gaps where the original dye has faded.
The Damage Myth
"Will highlights ruin my hair?"
Maybe. If you’re doing a full-head bleach to platinum before adding burgundy, then yes, your curl pattern will likely suffer. But for burgundy? You only need a minimal lift. Often, a high-lift tint (which colors and lifts at the same time) is enough for black hair to reach a burgundy stage without the aggression of traditional bleach.
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Professional stylists like Felicia Leatherwood, known for her work with natural textures, often emphasize that moisture is the antidote to the chemical processing of highlights. If you're going for this look, you need to double down on deep conditioning. Steaming your hair once a week with a macadamia or argan oil-based mask will keep those highlighted sections from becoming brittle.
Choosing the Right Technique: Balayage vs. Foils
Foils give you precision. If you want specific, sharp lines of burgundy, foils are the way to go. They trap heat, which helps the lightener work faster and more effectively on stubborn, dark hair.
Balayage is the "cool girl" choice. It’s hand-painted. It gives a more lived-in look. For black hair, a burgundy balayage is great because the regrowth is seamless. You won't have a harsh "line of demarcation" when your black roots start growing back in. You can basically go six months without a touch-up and it will still look intentional.
Next Steps for a Flawless Result
If you're ready to make the jump, don't just book a "color" appointment. Book a consultation first.
- Bring Reference Photos: But make sure the models in the photos have a similar skin tone and hair texture to yours. Burgundy looks vastly different on cool vs. warm skin.
- The "Clarity" Test: Ask your stylist if they plan to use a "high-lift color" or "bleach with a toner." High-lift is generally gentler for this specific shade.
- Prep Your Hair: Do a protein treatment a week before your appointment. This strengthens the hair bonds so they can withstand the oxidation process.
- Budget for Maintenance: Factor in the cost of a color-depositing conditioner. It’s not optional if you want the color to last longer than two weeks.
- Wash Day Strategy: Buy a microfiber towel. Traditional terry cloth towels are too rough on the cuticle and will strip the color faster while causing frizz on your new highlights.
Transitioning to burgundy is one of the most rewarding color changes for those with black hair because it adds warmth and "glow" to the complexion without the high maintenance of going blonde. Stick to deeper tones, prioritize moisture, and keep the water temperature low to ensure the investment lasts.