You’ve probably seen it. That brushed stainless steel behemoth sitting on a friend’s counter or starring in a high-end kitchen remodel on Pinterest. It’s the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro. Most people just call it "the Breville," but for a piece of kitchen gear that costs as much as a decent used sofa, you really have to wonder if it’s just a glorified toaster.
Honestly? It's not. But it’s also not a magic wand that makes you a Michelin-star chef overnight.
I’ve spent years testing kitchen tech, and the BOV900BSS (that's the nerdy model number) is one of those rare instances where the hype actually matches the hardware, provided you know what you're getting into. It's huge. It’s heavy. And it gets hot enough to melt a plastic spatula if you leave it too close. But if you're tired of waiting twenty minutes for your "big" oven to preheat just to roast some broccoli, this thing changes the game.
What Actually Makes This "Smart"?
The "Smart" in the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro refers to Element iQ. It sounds like marketing fluff, I know. Basically, instead of just having coils that stay on or off, this oven uses six independent quartz heating elements. These aren't your grandma’s old nichrome wires.
The oven moves power around. If you’re baking a cake, it shifts the heat to the top and bottom. If you’re air frying, it cranks the top elements and kicks on the Super Convection fan. It’s smart because it’s reactive. It knows that a piece of toast needs different thermal treatment than a slow-cooked pot roast.
Most cheap air fryers are basically hair dryers in a plastic box. They blast air from one direction. The Breville feels more like a professional convection oven that someone shrunk down to fit under your cabinets.
Space: The Final Frontier
Let’s talk about the size. You need to measure your kitchen before you buy this. It is 18.5 inches wide, 15.6 inches deep, and 11 inches tall. If you have low-hanging cabinets, you’re going to have a bad time. You need at least four inches of clearance on all sides because the exterior gets incredibly hot.
I’ve seen people try to tuck these into tight corners. Don’t. It’s a fire hazard and it’ll ruin your cabinetry over time.
But that footprint buys you volume. You can fit a 9x13 inch pan in here. You can roast a 14-pound turkey. You can fit a 12-cup muffin tin. It’s one of the few "countertop" ovens that can actually replace your main oven for 90% of your cooking tasks. For a family of four, it’s a lifesaver on Thanksgiving when the main oven is occupied by the bird and you still need to do the rolls and the green bean casserole.
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The Air Fryer Myth
People buy this specifically for the air fry function. Let’s get real: "Air frying" is just high-speed convection baking.
The Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro has two convection speeds: Super and Regular. When you hit "Super," the fan sounds like a small jet engine. It’s moving a massive amount of air. This is what gives you those crispy wings or those "fried" potatoes without the vat of oil.
Is it better than a dedicated basket-style air fryer like a Ninja or a Cosori?
It depends. Basket fryers are often faster because the space is smaller and the food is closer to the element. However, the Breville wins on capacity. You can spread out two pounds of chicken wings on the mesh rack. In a basket fryer, you’re shaking and flipping every five minutes to get an even cook. In the Breville, you just slide the tray in and let the airflow do the work.
One thing most people get wrong: you must use the air fry rack properly. If you put the rack on a solid pan, you’ve just blocked the air. You need that 360-degree circulation. And yeah, it’s a pain to clean. Those mesh baskets love to trap grease. Pro tip: buy some heavy-duty degreaser or just accept that the basket will never look brand new again.
The Dehydration and Slow Cooker Secret
Everyone focuses on the air frying, but the dehydration and slow cook settings are the unsung heroes here.
Most toaster ovens can’t hold a low enough temperature to dehydrate fruit or jerky. They fluctuate too much. The Breville can stay at a rock-steady 110°F for 24 hours. I’ve made dried mango and beef jerky in this thing that rivals anything you’d buy at a specialty shop.
And the slow cook mode? It’s basically a Dutch oven replacement. Because the heat is coming from all sides (including the top), you get a more even braise than you do in a traditional ceramic Crock-Pot where the heat only comes from the bottom and sides. You can put a heavy Le Creuset inside this oven, set it to "Slow Cook," and walk away for eight hours.
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Things Nobody Tells You (The Honest Truth)
It isn't perfect. For $400+, it should be, but it isn't.
First, the crumbs. The crumb tray is fine, but crumbs somehow find a way into the door hinges. It’s a design quirk that has existed for years. You’ll find yourself using a toothpick or a vacuum attachment to get the toasted bits out of the crevices.
Second, the "Non-Stick" coating. Breville says the interior is non-stick. It’s... okay. If you’re roasting a chicken and the fat splatters, you need to wipe it down immediately once it cools. If that grease bakes on, it’s there forever. You can’t use oven cleaner (it’ll ruin the coating and the elements), so you’re stuck with baking soda paste and a lot of elbow grease.
Third, the warranty. Breville offers a two-year limited warranty. For an appliance at this price point, I’d love to see five years. These machines are complex. They have a lot of sensors and a sophisticated control board. If the thermal fuse blows or the LCD starts flickering after year three, you’re looking at a very expensive paperweight unless you’re handy with a soldering iron.
Comparing the "Pro" to the "Air"
A common point of confusion is the difference between the Smart Oven Air and the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro.
The "Pro" is essentially the updated version of the original "Air." They are almost identical in size and function. The main difference lies in the specific presets and the inclusion of the air fry and dehydrate racks. Some newer versions also feature a "Proof" setting for bread dough, which is a godsend if you live in a cold climate and your kitchen is too chilly for sourdough to rise.
Why the Tech Actually Matters
We have to talk about the PID (Proportional-Integral-Derivative) controller. This is the same technology used in high-end espresso machines.
Standard ovens work like a cheap heater: they turn on full blast until they hit the temp, then shut off completely. This causes the temperature to swing wildly, sometimes by 20 or 30 degrees.
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The PID in the Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro monitors the temperature constantly and modulates the power to the elements. If it needs just a tiny bit of heat to maintain 350°F, it only sends a tiny bit of power. This stability is why your cookies come out perfectly even every single time. It’s why you don’t get burnt bottoms and raw middles.
Real World Use: The Monday Night Test
Picture this. It’s 6:00 PM on a Monday. You’re tired. You have some frozen salmon and some asparagus.
In a regular oven:
- Turn it on. Wait 15 minutes to hit 400°F.
- Put the food in.
- Wait 15-20 minutes.
- Total time: 35 minutes.
In the Breville:
- It hits 400°F in about 4 minutes.
- Use the "Roast" setting with convection.
- The salmon is done in 12 minutes.
- Total time: 16 minutes.
That 20-minute difference is why people love this machine. It’s the "speed of a microwave with the quality of an oven" promise that actually works.
Actionable Insights for New Owners
If you just unboxed your Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro, or you're about to pull the trigger, keep these things in mind to get your money's worth:
- Buy a Dedicated Pizza Stone: The oven comes with a pizza pan, but a 13-inch ceramic stone fits perfectly and holds heat much better for that crispy NY-style crust.
- The "Rotate" Myth: Even with Super Convection, the back-right corner tends to be the hottest spot. If you’re baking something delicate like macarons, rotate the pan halfway through.
- Silence the Beep: If the loud end-of-cycle beep drives you crazy, you can usually adjust the volume or mute it in the settings menu (check your manual for the button combo).
- Watch Your Toast: This oven toasts fast. A level 4 on the Breville is like a level 8 on a standard toaster. Start low or you’ll be eating charcoal.
- Deglaze the Pans: Don't put the included roasting pan in the dishwasher. It’s enamel-coated and will lose its finish. Hand wash it with warm soapy water.
The Breville Smart Oven Air Fryer Pro is a commitment. It takes up a lot of room and it costs a lot of money. But for anyone who actually cooks—not just reheats—it’s the most useful tool you can put on your counter. It replaces a toaster, a dehydrator, a slow cooker, and for most small meals, your entire range. Just make sure you have the clearance and a solid sourdough starter ready to go.