So, you’re looking at a Brazilian red and white. Maybe you saw a photo on a forum, or perhaps you’re staring at a tiny, brown spiderling in a deli cup at a reptile expo, wondering if it’s actually going to turn into that biological masterpiece you saw on Instagram.
Let’s be real. In the world of tarantula keeping, some species are just "brown bags." They’re fast, they hide in the dirt, and you basically own a pet box of peat moss. The Nhandu chromatus, or the Brazilian red and white, is the exact opposite of that. It’s loud. It’s bold. It’s essentially the heavy metal album cover of the arachnid world.
What People Get Wrong About Nhandu chromatus
A lot of beginners confuse this spider with the Acanthoscurria geniculata (the Brazilian Giant White Knee). Honestly, at a glance, you’d be forgiven. They both have those striking white bands on their legs. But the Brazilian red and white has a secret weapon: that deep, velvety red hair on its abdomen. It’s a color contrast that shouldn’t work, yet it looks incredible.
Here is the thing about the Nhandu genus. People think because they are "New World" spiders, they’re going to be as chill as a Chilean Rose Hair.
Big mistake.
These spiders have an attitude. If a Rose Hair is a golden retriever, a Brazilian red and white is a caffeinated chihuahua with a chip on its shoulder. They don't usually bite—New World species have urticating hairs for defense—but they are skittish. They are "leggy." If you open the enclosure to top off the water, don't be surprised if they do a lap around the rim before you can blink.
The Growth Rate is Actually Insane
If you buy a Grammostola pulchra (the Brazilian Black), you are signing up for a decade-long wait for it to reach adult size. You'll grow old together. The Brazilian red and white, however, grows like it’s trying to win a race.
🔗 Read more: Finding the Right Look: What People Get Wrong About Red Carpet Boutique Formal Wear
I’ve seen slings go from the size of a fingernail to a four-inch juvenile in about 18 months. That is blisteringly fast for a tarantula. Because they grow so fast, they eat. A lot. They have a feeding response that is, frankly, terrifying. Toss a cricket in there and the Nhandu chromatus doesn't just hunt it; it teleports onto it.
Setting Up the Perfect Brazilian Red and White Habitat
You don't need a PhD in biology to keep these guys alive, but you do need to respect where they come from. They are terrestrial. That means they live on the ground. Please, for the love of everything, do not give them a tall, vertical tank meant for arboreal species. A fall from even a few inches can rupture their abdomen.
They need floor space.
Substrate matters. Use a mix of coco fiber and topsoil. Keep it mostly dry, but always keep a water dish full. These spiders aren't from a desert, but they aren't from a swamp either. They like it "in-between." If the substrate is soaking wet, they’ll spend all their time hanging off the glass because they hate the feeling of swampy feet.
- Give them at least 4 inches of substrate so they can burrow.
- Use a cork bark hide. They might not use it much once they settle in, but they need the option.
- Temperatures should stay between 72°F and 80°F. If you're comfortable in a t-shirt, they are probably fine.
The Urticating Hair Warning
We have to talk about the "itchy hairs." Brazilian red and white tarantulas are flickers. Instead of biting, they use their back legs to kick fine, barbed hairs off their abdomen.
If these get on your skin, it feels like you walked through fiberglass. If they get in your eyes or nose? That’s a trip to the urgent care you don't want to make. Always wash your hands after doing maintenance. Better yet, use long feeding tongs. Don't be the person who tries to "cuddle" their tarantula. They don't want to be held, and you don't want the rash.
💡 You might also like: Finding the Perfect Color Door for Yellow House Styles That Actually Work
Why the Brazilian Red and White is High-Value for Collectors
Why do people keep these if they’re jumpy and have itchy hairs? Because they are always out.
Most tarantulas are "pet holes." You spend $100 on a rare species and you see it once every six months when it decides to come out for a snack. The Brazilian red and white is an "on-display" species. They aren't shy. They sit right in the middle of their enclosure looking like a piece of high-end art.
They are also incredibly affordable. Because they are easy to breed and produce huge egg sacs—sometimes up to 1,000 spiderlings—you can usually pick one up for $20 to $40. That is a steal for a spider that ends up being 6-7 inches in diagonal leg span.
Dietary Needs and "The Hunger"
Feeding a Nhandu chromatus is the highlight of ownership. They are opportunistic feeders. They will eat crickets, roaches (Dubia are best), and the occasional mealworm.
Adults only need to eat once every week or two. Overfeeding can actually lead to issues during molting. If the abdomen looks like a giant, shiny grape, stop feeding. They are full. Let them digest. When they go into "pre-molt," they’ll stop eating entirely. Their skin will turn dark and dull. This is the one time you absolutely must leave them alone. If you leave a live cricket in the cage while a tarantula is molting, the cricket can actually eat the spider. It sounds backwards, but it happens.
Common Misconceptions and Troubleshooting
People often ask: "Is the Brazilian red and white venomous?"
📖 Related: Finding Real Counts Kustoms Cars for Sale Without Getting Scammed
Technically, yes. Almost all tarantulas are. But their venom is comparable to a bee sting for most people. Unless you have a specific allergy, it's not life-threatening. The real danger is the aforementioned hair.
Another myth is that they need high humidity. In the early days of the hobby, people thought "Brazil = Rainforest = 100% Humidity." This killed a lot of spiders. Stagnant, wet air is a death sentence for a Brazilian red and white. They need ventilation. If you see mold growing on the substrate, your enclosure is too wet and too stagnant. Drill more holes.
Distinguishing Sex
If you want a spider that lives for 20 years, you want a female. Males are the "live fast, die young" version. They usually mature in 3-5 years, get "hooked out" (develop mating spurs), and then stop eating as they wander in search of a mate.
The easiest way to tell is by looking at a molted skin. If you see a tiny little flap (the spermathecae) between the upper set of book lungs, congratulations, you have a female. If it’s flat, it’s a boy.
Actionable Next Steps for Future Owners
If you're ready to bring a Brazilian red and white into your home, don't just wing it.
Start by sourcing your spider from a reputable breeder rather than a generic pet store; stores often mislabel Nhandu species or sell wild-caught specimens that are stressed and full of parasites. Look for "captive-bred" labels.
Before the spider arrives, set up the enclosure and let it sit for 48 hours to ensure the temperature and moisture levels stabilize. Buy a pair of 12-inch feeding tongs—trust me, you’ll want the distance. Finally, join a community like Arachnoboards or a dedicated tarantula Discord. The collective wisdom of keepers who have raised hundreds of these spiders is the best resource you’ll ever find for those "Is my spider acting weird?" moments.
Once the enclosure is set, the substrate is dialed in, and you’ve got your tongs ready, you’re looking at one of the most rewarding displays in the invertebrate world. Just keep your fingers out of the strike zone.