You want a pet that looks like it crawled out of a Victorian velvet painting. I get it. The Grammostola pulchra, better known as the Brazilian black tarantula, is basically the "black lab" of the spider world. It’s solid coal-black. It’s chunky. It’s surprisingly chill. But here’s the thing—while everyone says they’re the perfect beginner species, there are a few quirks about Brazilian black tarantula care that people usually gloss over until they’re staring at a very expensive, very still ball of fluff.
These spiders aren't just toys. They are long-term commitments. A female can live twenty years or more. That’s longer than most dogs. If you’re getting a spider because it’s a cool aesthetic for your desk, you need to realize you’re basically adopting a tiny, eight-legged roommate who will be with you through multiple presidential elections.
The Reality of the Slowest Growth Rate Ever
If you buy a spiderling, be prepared to wait. And wait. Then wait some more.
Most people start with a "sling" (spiderling) because they’re cheaper. An adult female G. pulchra can easily set you back $200 to $400 depending on the market. But the growth rate? It’s glacial. You’ll feed it, keep the humidity perfect, and watch it do... absolutely nothing for six months. They are notorious for being "pet holes." They bury themselves, seal the door with silk, and ignore you. Honestly, it’s a bit insulting.
Expert keepers like Tom Moran of Tom’s Big Spiders often point out that this species takes years to reach that iconic jet-black adult look. As babies, they’re a sort of muddy brown. If you want that midnight-obsidian sheen right now, you’re going to have to pay the premium for a sub-adult or adult.
Setting Up the Crib: Substrate is Everything
Don't overcomplicate the tank. Brazilian black tarantula care isn't about high-tech gadgets or fancy lighting. In fact, they hate bright lights. They don't have eyelids, so imagine living in a room with a permanent spotlight. Not fun.
The most critical factor is the floor. These are terrestrial spiders. They aren't built for climbing glass, and they’re surprisingly fragile. If a heavy-bodied G. pulchra climbs to the top of a tall enclosure and falls, its abdomen can burst like a water balloon. It’s gruesome and usually fatal.
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- Use a wide, shallow enclosure. Floor space matters way more than height.
- Fill it at least halfway with substrate. I personally like a mix of coco fiber, topsoil, and a little sand or vermiculite.
- Pack it down firm. These spiders like a solid surface, not walking on a sponge.
- Give them a "starter burrow." A piece of cork bark buried halfway into the dirt works wonders.
Keep the substrate dry. This is where a lot of newbies mess up. They think "Brazil" and think "steamy rainforest." While they do come from South America, G. pulchra thrives in the grasslands and forest fringes of Brazil and Uruguay. They don't want to live in a swamp. If the dirt is soggy, the spider will climb the walls to get away from it, which puts them at risk of that fall we talked about.
Just keep a water bowl full. That’s basically all the humidity they need. If you see them hovering over the bowl, maybe dampen one corner of the tank, but otherwise, let it be dry.
The Feeding Routine (And the Infamous Hunger Strikes)
Feeding a Brazilian black is usually fun because they have a great "feeding response." They don't usually flick hairs or act defensive; they just pounce. Crickets, dubia roaches, or mealworms are the gold standard here.
But then, one day, they'll stop eating.
You’ll offer a roach, and the spider will literally turn its back on it. You’ll panic. You’ll check the temperature. You’ll post on a forum. Relax. Tarantulas, especially the Grammostola genus, are the kings of hunger strikes. It could be because they’re entering "pre-molt" (getting ready to shed their skin), or it could just be because they feel like it. I’ve seen G. pulchra go six months without a meal and not lose a bit of weight.
As long as the abdomen looks plump and round, don't sweat it. If the abdomen starts looking shriveled like a raisin, then you have a problem. Otherwise, just remove the uneaten prey so it doesn't stress the spider out or, worse, munch on the spider while it's molting.
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Temperature: Do You Need a Heater?
Probably not.
The general rule in the hobby is: if you’re comfortable in a t-shirt, your spider is fine. They do great between 68°F and 80°F. If your house gets down to 60°F in the winter, you might want a small space heater for the room, but stay away from heat mats stuck to the bottom of the tank. Tarantulas burrow to get away from heat. If the heat is coming from the bottom, they’ll dig deeper, essentially cooking themselves. It's a bad way to go.
Handling: Just Because You Can Doesn't Mean You Should
This is the "docile" species. They’re the ones you see in YouTube videos being held by everyone. And yeah, they are generally very calm. They move slowly and rarely bite.
But remember: handling is for the human, not the spider. The spider gets nothing out of it but stress. A sudden breeze, a loud noise, or a cat jumping on the table can cause the spider to bolt. If it falls from your hand to the floor, it's over. Plus, even "calm" spiders have Urticating hairs. These are tiny, barbed spears they flick off their butts when they’re annoyed. They won't kill you, but if you get them in your eyes or breathe them in, you’re going to have a very bad week. If you get them on your skin, it feels like rubbing fiberglass insulation on yourself.
If you must move them, use the "cup method." Put a cup over them, slide a piece of paper underneath, and move them safely.
The Molting Process: A Heart Attack in a Box
Every so often, you will find your tarantula lying flat on its back.
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Your first instinct will be to scream and think it’s dead. It’s not. It’s molting. This is how they grow. They lay down a silk mat, flip over, and literally crawl out of their own skeleton. It’s an exhausting, hours-long process that leaves them incredibly soft and vulnerable.
Rule number one: Never, ever touch a molting spider. Don't move the tank. Don't try to "help" it out of the skin. Don't even breathe on it too hard. Their new fangs are like rubber at this stage. If they try to move too early, they can deform their limbs. Once they’re flipped back over and upright, wait at least a week—ideally ten days—before offering food. They need time for their "teeth" to harden back into black chitin so they can actually pierce prey without breaking their own mouthparts.
Common Misconceptions About Brazilian Black Tarantula Care
People often confuse G. pulchra with G. quirogai. Honestly, even experts have a hard time telling them apart without looking at very specific microscopic features or knowing exactly where they were collected in the wild. For you, the keeper, it doesn't change much. The care is identical.
Another myth is that they need a "dark room" because they’re black. While they don't like bright light, they still benefit from a natural day/night cycle. Just don't put the tank in direct sunlight, or you’ll turn the enclosure into an oven.
Actionable Steps for New Owners
If you're ready to dive into Brazilian black tarantula care, follow these steps to ensure you don't end up with a stressed-out spider or a wasted investment.
- Secure a juvenile or sub-adult: Unless you have the patience of a saint, skip the tiny 1/4 inch slings. A 2-inch juvenile is much hardier and already starting to show the dark coloration.
- Invest in a front-opening enclosure: While top-down access is fine, front-opening tanks (like those from Exo Terra or Primal Fear) make it easier to clean water bowls and remove boluses (the leftover balls of bug parts) without startling the spider from above, which they perceive as a predator attack.
- Ditch the sponges: Never put a sponge in the water bowl. It just grows bacteria. A plain shallow dish with clean water is all they need. If you're worried about them drowning, don't be—they can literally float on water thanks to their hairs.
- Check your sources: Buy from reputable breeders like Fear Not Tarantulas or Palp Friction in the US. Avoid "wild-caught" specimens. Wild-caught spiders are often stressed, carries parasites, and taking them from the wild hurts the natural population. Captive-bred is the only ethical way to go.
- Keep a log: Note down when they eat and when they molt. Because they grow so slowly, you'll lose track of their progress otherwise. Seeing that they molted exactly six months apart helps you predict when the next "hunger strike" is coming.
Focus on the substrate depth and keeping things dry. If you get those two things right, the rest of the care is incredibly low-maintenance. You'll have a stunning, jet-black centerpiece that requires less work than a houseplant and lives significantly longer.
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