So, you're thinking about getting a side lip piercing. It's a classic. Honestly, while trends like the "cyber bites" or "vertical labrets" cycle in and out of fashion, the standard bottom lip side piercing—often just called a side labret—has basically stayed a staple in the body mod world for decades. It’s subtle but edgy. It changes your face shape just enough to be interesting without being totally overwhelming.
But here is the thing: it isn't just a quick prick and a cool photo for your feed.
There is a lot of bad advice floating around. People tell you it doesn't hurt (it does, a bit) or that you can swap the jewelry in two weeks (please, don't). If you want this to look good and, more importantly, not rot your gums or get swallowed by your own lip skin, you need the actual facts.
The Reality of the "Side Labret" Experience
Most people just call it a side lip piercing, but if you walk into a high-end studio like Iris Piercing or Cold Steel, the piercer might refer to it as an off-center labret. It is placed specifically to avoid the frenulum—that little thin piece of skin connecting your lip to your gums.
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Pain is subjective. You've probably heard that a million times. However, the bottom lip is fleshy and full of nerve endings. Most veterans of the chair rank it around a 4 out of 10. It’s a sharp pinch followed by a weird, dull pressure as the needle pulls the jewelry through. The "pop" sound is usually the part that freaks people out more than the actual needle.
Expect swelling. Like, real swelling.
Your lip will likely double in size for the first 72 hours. This is why your initial jewelry looks ridiculously long. It’s not a mistake. If your piercer puts in a snug hoop or a short stud immediately, your lip will try to eat the metal. This is called "embedding," and it’s a medical nightmare that usually ends with a doctor and some local anesthetic.
Jewelry Myths and Dental Hazards
Let's talk about the hardware. You have two main choices: the flat-back labret stud or a captive bead ring.
Actually, wait. You really only have one choice for the healing phase: the stud.
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Putting a ring in a fresh bottom lip side piercing is a recipe for disaster. Rings move. They rotate, dragging bacteria into the open wound, and they put "pressure necrosis" on the edges of the hole, which leads to those ugly red bumps (granulomas). Stick with an implant-grade titanium stud for at least three months.
Titanium is king. Don't let a shop sell you "surgical steel" unless they can prove it’s ASTM F-138 compliant. Most cheap steel contains nickel, which is a common allergen. If your piercing starts itching and turning green, you’ve been bamboozled by low-quality metal.
The Teeth Situation
This is the part nobody wants to hear. Any oral piercing carries a risk of gum recession or chipped enamel. Elayne Angel, author of The Piercing Bible and a massive authority in the industry, has noted that placement is the only way to mitigate this.
A skilled piercer will angle the needle so the flat disc of the stud sits flush against your tissue, away from the gum line. Even then, metal hitting teeth is bad news. This is why many people eventually switch to BioFlex or PTFE (plastic) stems. They are softer on the mouth, though some argue they harbor more bacteria than polished metal.
The Healing Timeline: A Week-by-Week Breakdown
Healing isn't a straight line. It's a rollercoaster of "it's fine" and "why is it leaking?"
- Days 1–5: The "Fat Lip" Phase. You will feel like you’ve been punched. Eating is annoying. You’ll probably bite the long jewelry by accident. Stick to cold foods. Smoothies are your best friend, but skip the straw—the suction can dislodge the blood clot forming in the wound.
- Weeks 2–4: The Crusty Phase. You'll see a clear or pale yellow fluid drying around the site. This is lymph. It’s normal. It is not pus. Don't pick it with your fingernails.
- Month 2: The "Fake Out." The outside looks totally healed. You think you’re in the clear. You aren't. The "fistula"—the tube of scar tissue—is still thin and fragile on the inside.
- Months 3–6: The Downsize. This is when you go back to the pro to get a shorter bar. Once the swelling is permanently gone, a shorter bar prevents the jewelry from rattling against your teeth.
Cleaning It Without Ruining It
Stop using alcohol. Stop using peroxide. Stop using Neosporin.
These things are too harsh. They kill the new skin cells trying to grow. The Association of Professional Piercers (APP) recommends a simple sterile saline wash. Look for "NeilMed Piercing Aftercare" or any spray where the only ingredients are water and 0.9% sodium chloride.
Spray the outside twice a day. For the inside? Just rinse with bottled or filtered water after you eat. Avoid spicy foods and crusty bread for a bit. Ever had hot sauce get inside a fresh wound? It’s not a fun afternoon.
Common Complications (And How to Spot Them)
Kinda gross, but you need to know the difference between a minor irritation and a "go to the doctor" situation.
- Infection: This involves heat, throbbing pain, and thick, foul-smelling green or brown discharge. If you see red streaks coming from the piercing, get to an urgent care immediately.
- Irritation Bump: Usually a small, skin-colored or red bubble. This is almost always caused by moving the jewelry too much, sleeping on it, or using the wrong cleaning products.
- Migration: If you notice your piercing is "moving" or the skin between the hole and the edge of your lip is getting thinner, your body is rejecting it. Take it out before it scars.
Style and Placement Variations
The bottom lip side piercing doesn't have to be a lonely stud. Once it’s healed, the styling options are actually pretty vast.
- The Hoops: Once you’re at the 4-6 month mark, you can finally put in a seamless ring or a horseshoe (circular barbell).
- The Vertical Variation: If you're terrified of dental damage, look into a vertical labret. It goes through the lip and exits out the top of the vermilion (the red part), so no metal ever touches your teeth.
- Double Side Piercings: Some people get two on one side, known as "spider bites." It’s the same process, just twice the swelling.
Real Talk on Cost
Don't go to a place that charges $20. You’re paying for the piercer's expertise, the sterilization of the room (autoclave), and the quality of the metal.
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In a reputable city shop, expect to pay between $40 and $80 for the procedure, plus the cost of jewelry. High-end gold or titanium pieces can easily push the total to $150. It’s an investment in your face. Don't cheap out on your face.
Actionable Steps for Your New Piercing
If you're ready to take the plunge, don't just walk into the first shop you see.
First, check the APP (Association of Professional Piercers) website to find a member in your area. This guarantees a certain level of hygiene and jewelry quality.
Second, buy your saline spray before the appointment. You won't want to run errands when your lip is throbbing.
Third, eat a full meal about an hour before you go. Low blood sugar makes you more likely to faint or get lightheaded when the adrenaline hits.
Lastly, prepare to be patient. A bottom lip side piercing is a commitment to 3-6 months of careful cleaning. If you can handle the "crusty phase" and the initial swelling, you'll end up with one of the most versatile and classic piercings out there. Just keep your hands off it, keep the saline handy, and listen to your piercer, not your friends' "hacks."