It finally happened. On September 30, 2024—a date that would have been the late Virgil Abloh’s 44th birthday—LVMH dropped a bombshell. They were offloading Off-White.
The news that Bluestar Alliance acquires Off-White sent a ripple through the industry that felt part tragedy and part cold business reality. For a few years there, it felt like Off-White was the sun everything else orbited. If you were into fashion, you knew the zip ties. You knew the quotation marks. You knew that Virgil was basically the guy who broke the wall between the street and the runway.
But things changed fast after he passed in 2021. Honestly, LVMH seemed like they didn't know what to do with the brand once the visionary was gone.
The Deal Nobody Saw Coming (But Everyone Expected)
LVMH is the heavyweight champion of luxury. They own Louis Vuitton, Dior, Fendi—the list goes on. When they bought a 60% stake in Off-White back in 2021, everyone thought it was the start of a multi-decade empire. Then Virgil died just months later.
Suddenly, the brand was a ship without a captain.
Enter Bluestar Alliance. They aren't your typical high-fashion conglomerate. They aren’t sitting in a gold-leafed office in Paris dreaming up the next avant-garde silhouette. No, they are brand management specialists. They buy names you know—think Hurley, Scotch & Soda, Bebe, and Tahari—and they figure out how to make them profitable in the real world.
The transaction was quiet. No price tag was revealed. But the shift in power is massive.
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Why did LVMH sell?
Basically, Off-White was struggling. Under the creative direction of Ib Kamara, the brand tried to find its footing, but the hype had cooled. High-end retailers were starting to pull back. The brand was reportedly underperforming, contributing to a significant revenue dip for New Guards Group, the entity that actually handles the manufacturing and licensing.
LVMH is about growth and prestige. If a brand isn't hitting those astronomical luxury margins or maintaining that "it" factor, they don't tend to hang onto it for sentimental reasons.
Is This the End of Off-White as "Luxury"?
This is the big question everyone’s asking. When a brand goes from a house like LVMH to a firm like Bluestar, the strategy usually shifts from "exclusive and expensive" to "accessible and everywhere."
Bluestar Alliance CEO Joey Gabbay says they want to "honor and build upon the enduring legacy" of Virgil. That’s the corporate way of saying they want to keep the vibe alive. But industry insiders are skeptical. Gary Wassner, a big name in fashion financing, told Business of Fashion that the luxury market has basically given up on the brand.
If you look at Bluestar's history, they are experts at licensing.
- They put brands in department stores.
- They expand into categories like home goods and perfume.
- They maximize every cent of "brand equity."
There's a very real chance you’ll soon see Off-White at a price point that doesn't require a second mortgage. For some, that’s great. For the people who paid $800 for a hoodie because it felt exclusive? Not so much.
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The Complicated Web of Ownership
Here is where it gets kind of messy.
LVMH didn't just sell a clothing line; they sold Off-White LLC. But there's another player: New Guards Group (NGG). NGG has a licensing deal to produce and distribute Off-White that runs until 2026. This means Bluestar owns the name, but they might have to wait or negotiate to get full control over how the clothes are actually made and sold.
And then there's the family. Shannon Abloh and Virgil Abloh Securities—the group dedicated to his legacy—formally parted ways with the brand back in 2022. They have zero connection to this deal.
So, you've got a brand named after a dead genius, owned by a New York management firm, licensed by an Italian group, and no longer connected to the founder's estate. It's a lot.
What Happens to the Design?
Ib Kamara is still there for now. He’s a brilliant stylist and editor, and his recent shows in New York were actually pretty well-received. He brought a certain "Afrofuturism" and energy that felt fresh.
But Bluestar is a business-first shop. Will they keep funding expensive, theatrical runway shows? Or will they pivot to a model where they just churn out logo tees and sneakers because that's what actually sells?
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Since the news broke that Bluestar Alliance acquires Off-White, they’ve also doubled down on streetwear by picking up Palm Angels in early 2025. It looks like they are building a "Luxury Streetwear" silo within their portfolio. They are clearly betting that the "streetwear is dead" crowd is wrong.
What This Means for You
If you’re a fan or a collector, things are about to get weird. Usually, when a brand gets acquired by a management firm, two things happen:
- The "Diffusion" Effect: You’ll likely see more affordable lines. Think "Off-White for [Mass Retailer]." This usually kills the resale value of the older, high-end pieces.
- Global Expansion: Bluestar is great at opening stores in places LVMH didn't care about. Expect a bigger footprint in the Middle East and Asia, but maybe less of a presence in the ultra-snobby boutiques in Paris or Soho.
Next Steps for the Savvy Fashion Consumer:
If you own "Grail" pieces from the Virgil era (2013-2021), hold onto them. Those items are now officially part of a closed chapter. As the brand moves into this new, more commercial phase, the original "Made in Italy" pieces designed by Virgil himself are going to be seen as the only "real" Off-White by collectors.
Keep an eye on the 2026 milestone. That’s when the New Guards Group contract is up. That will be the moment we see the "real" version of what Bluestar wants Off-White to be. Until then, it's a brand in transition, trying to figure out how to be cool without the coolest guy in the room.