Blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair: Why this combo actually works

Blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair: Why this combo actually works

You’ve seen it. That specific, swirling mix of colors that looks like a high-end espresso drink spilled into a sunset. It’s blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair. Most people think you have to choose a side. You’re either a "cool-toned blonde" person or a "warm-toned red" person. But honestly? Mixing them is the secret to making brown hair look like it has actual depth instead of just being one flat, muddy shade.

It’s tricky. If you mess up the ratios, you end up looking like a Neapolitan ice cream container. But when it's done right? It’s arguably the most versatile way to transition your hair between seasons.

The Science of Why Blonde and Burgundy Highlights in Brown Hair Don't Clash

Colors usually live in camps. You have your warm golds and your cool ashen tones. Burgundy is a bit of a rebel. It’s a mix of red and violet, which means it carries both warm and cool properties. This is why it plays so well with blonde. When you throw blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair, the burgundy acts as a bridge.

Think about the color wheel.

If you put a bright, cool platinum blonde next to a deep chocolate brown, the contrast can be jarring. It’s "stripey." But add a sliver of burgundy? Suddenly, the violet tones in the burgundy talk to the coolness of the blonde, while the red tones grab onto the warmth of the brown base. It’s a visual handshake. Professional colorists like Kim Vo have often spoken about "interstitial coloring"—the idea that you need a mid-tone to make high-contrast highlights feel intentional rather than accidental.

Dimensionality is the goal

Flat hair is boring. We’ve all had that "box dye" moment where the hair looks like a solid helmet of color.

By using blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair, you’re creating what stylists call "movement." When light hits the hair, it reflects off the blonde. When you move into the shade, the burgundy provides a richness that keeps the brown from looking "mousy." It’s basically a cheat code for thin hair. The darker burgundy sections create the illusion of shadows, making the hair look thicker, while the blonde "pops" the top layers.

Stop Getting "The Zebra Look"

The biggest mistake people make with blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair is the placement.

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If you go to a salon and ask for "highlights," and they pull out that old-school rubber cap with the holes? Run. Seriously. You want balayage or "babylights."

The burgundy needs to be the "meat" of the color—placed in the mid-lengths and lower sections. The blonde should be the "garnish." If you put heavy blonde streaks right next to heavy burgundy streaks starting at the root, you’re going to look like a 2004 pop star. Not in a good, nostalgic way. In a "I did this in my bathroom" way.

  • Balayage Technique: This is where the stylist hand-paints the color. It’s better for this combo because it allows for a seamless blend.
  • Root Smudging: If you have dark brown hair, ask for a root smudge. This keeps your natural color at the top and lets the blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair fade in gradually.
  • The 70/30 Rule: Usually, you want about 70% of your highlights to be one color and 30% the other. Equal parts blonde and red usually looks chaotic.

Real Talk About Maintenance

Red pigment is a nightmare. There, I said it.

Burgundy is notorious for fading faster than a summer fling. The molecules in red hair dye are larger than other colors, so they don't penetrate the hair shaft as deeply. They just kinda... sit on the surface. Meanwhile, blonde highlights involve stripping pigment away. So, you have one color trying to leave (the burgundy) and one color that is literally a hole in your hair (the blonde).

If you’re going to rock blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair, you need a strategy.

  1. Cold Water: It sucks, but you have to wash your hair in lukewarm or cold water. Hot water opens the cuticle and lets that expensive burgundy go right down the drain.
  2. Color-Safe Shampoo: Obviously. But specifically, look for something sulfate-free. Pureology or Redken Magnetics are staples for a reason.
  3. The Gloss Factor: You’ll probably need a toner or a gloss every 6 weeks. This refreshes the burgundy without having to re-bleach the blonde parts.

Choosing the Right Shades for Your Skin Tone

Not all blondes are created equal. And burgundy? It’s a spectrum.

If you have a "cool" skin tone (think blue veins, looks good in silver), you want a burgundy that leans heavy on the violet. Pair that with a champagne or ash blonde.

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If you have "warm" skin (greenish veins, looks great in gold), go for a burgundy that’s more of a "black cherry" or "merlot" with red undertones. Match that with honey or caramel blonde.

Getting these mixed up is why some people think they can't pull off blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair. They can; they just picked the wrong temperature.

Why Brown Hair is the Perfect Canvas

Brown hair is the unsung hero of the hair world. It has enough "grit" to hold onto pigment but is light enough that you don't always need 40-volume developer to see a change. Whether you have light ash brown or deep espresso, the blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair will behave differently. On dark espresso, the burgundy looks like a "hidden" glow. On light brown, it looks like a bold fashion statement.

What to Tell Your Stylist

Don't just show up and say "I want highlights." You have to be specific.

Tell them you want a "multi-tonal dimensional look." Mention that you want the burgundy to act as a lowlight and the blonde to act as a face-frame. Use words like "melted" or "lived-in." These tell the stylist you don't want harsh lines.

And for the love of everything, bring a photo. But not just any photo. Find someone with a similar skin tone and hair texture. Showing a picture of a girl with pin-straight blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair when you have tight curls is a recipe for disappointment. The way light hits a curl vs. a straight strand changes how we perceive color entirely.

Dealing with the Damage

Bleach is a chemical burn for your hair. Even if you're just doing highlights, you're changing the structural integrity of the strand.

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When you add burgundy on top, you’re often adding more chemicals. If your hair feels like corn silk after the appointment, you need protein. Products like Olaplex or K18 aren't just hype; they actually reconnect the broken disulfide bonds in your hair. If you're investing in blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair, spend the extra $30 on a decent bond builder. It’s the difference between hair that swings and hair that snaps.

The Verdict on This Trend

Is it a trend? Sorta. But it’s also a classic color theory application.

People are moving away from the "gray-blonde" obsession of the last few years because it makes most people look washed out. Adding burgundy brings life back to the face. It mimics the natural flush of skin. When you combine that with the brightening effect of blonde, you basically get a permanent "filter" for your face.

It’s a high-maintenance look, sure. You can't just ignore it for six months and expect it to look good. But if you're willing to do the work, blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair offer a level of sophistication that a single-process color just can't touch.

Next Steps for Your Hair Journey

Before you book that appointment, do a "pinch test." Pinch a small section of your hair and pull. If it stretches and snaps back, you’re good for bleach. If it just stretches and stays there—or worse, breaks off—skip the blonde for now. Focus on the burgundy highlights first, which are usually less damaging, and let your hair recover.

Once you're ready, look for a stylist who specializes in "color melting." Check their Instagram. If their feed is nothing but platinum blondes, they might not be the best person for a complex multi-tone job. You want someone who knows how to play with reds.

Grab a sulfate-free shampoo today, even before you get the color done. Prepping your hair with moisture a week before your appointment will help the burgundy pigment "stick" better. Finally, keep your expectations realistic—achieving the perfect balance of blonde and burgundy highlights in brown hair might take two sessions if your hair is currently very dark or previously dyed. Patience usually results in the best hair anyway.