You step off the ferry at Old Harbor and the first thing you notice isn't the smell of salt—though it's definitely there, thick and briny—it’s the lack of sound. No sirens. No frantic highway hum. Just the rhythmic thwack of bike tires hitting the pavement and the occasional moped engine buzzing like a giant, confused bumblebee. Honestly, Rhode Island Block Island is one of those rare places that managed to dodge the "luxury development" bullet that turned so much of the New England coast into a series of identical high-end boutiques and overpriced lobster roll stands.
It’s raw. It’s windy. It’s basically a giant glacial moraine sitting 12 miles out at sea, and if you aren't careful, the Mohegan Bluffs will make you feel very small, very quickly.
People usually arrive with a plan to "do" the island in four hours. That’s a mistake. You can’t rush a place that moves at the speed of a bicycle uphill. To really get why this 10-square-mile chunk of land matters, you have to look at the dirt. About 47% of the island is legally protected from development, thanks to the massive efforts of the Block Island Conservancy and the Nature Conservancy. That’s why you see rolling meadows instead of condos. It’s a deliberate choice to stay slightly "behind the times," and that is exactly why it works.
The Ferry Logistics Everyone Messes Up
Look, getting to Rhode Island Block Island is either a breeze or a nightmare, depending on your ability to read a schedule. The Block Island Ferry operates out of Point Judith (Galilee), and you have two main choices: the traditional slow ferry or the high-speed catamaran.
If you want the "classic" experience, take the slow boat. It’s an hour of leaning against the railing, watching the Newport Bridge disappear, and getting your hair ruined by the wind. It’s also much cheaper. The high-speed ferry gets you there in about 30 minutes, but you’re stuck inside a cabin feeling the engine hum.
Pro tip: If you are bringing a car, you better have booked that reservation months ago. Like, February. Seriously. But honestly? Don't bring a car. The streets in Old Harbor are narrow, parking is a localized disaster, and the island is meant to be seen from the seat of a bike. Just rent one near the docks. You’ll see a dozen rental stands the moment you walk off the gangplank. Pay the extra ten bucks for a multi-speed bike because the hills toward the southern end are no joke.
Mohegan Bluffs and the 141 Steps to Nowhere
When people talk about the "scenery" here, they’re usually talking about the Mohegan Bluffs. These are huge, 150-foot clay cliffs on the southern shore. They look like something you’d find in Ireland or Scotland, not twenty minutes away from a Dunkin' in South Kingstown.
To get to the beach at the bottom, you have to descend a wooden staircase. There are 141 steps. Going down is fine. You feel like an explorer. Coming back up after a few hours in the sun? That’s where the regret sets in.
The beach at the bottom is rocky and wild. It’s not a "lay out on a towel and read a book" kind of beach. It’s a "watch the Atlantic Ocean try to eat the coastline" kind of beach. You’ll see the Southeast Lighthouse nearby, which is a massive brick structure that they actually had to move 300 feet back from the edge in 1993 because the cliffs were eroding so fast. It was a crazy engineering feat. Imagine moving a 2,000-ton building on rollers. They did it, and it’s still standing there, looking over the water.
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Where to Actually Eat Without Getting Ripped Off
Let’s be real: island food is expensive. Everything has to be shipped in on a boat, so expect to pay a "moat tax" on your burger.
If you want the fancy experience, The Beachead or Eli’s are the spots. But if you want to eat like someone who actually lives here, you go to The Oar. It’s over at New Harbor (the Great Salt Pond side). The walls and ceiling are covered in painted oars from visitors over the decades. It’s loud, it’s chaotic, and the mudslides are legendary.
The Mudslide Secret: Block Island is inexplicably obsessed with mudslides. It’s a frozen vodka, Kahlua, and Irish cream drink. Every bar claims theirs is the best. The Oar’s version is basically a milkshake that will make you forget you have to bike three miles back to the ferry.
For a quick lunch, honestly, just grab a sandwich at the Block Island Grocery or a bagel at Old Harbor Bagel Co. Take it to the beach. Sitting on the sand at Crescent Beach with a $12 sandwich is a better experience than sitting in a crowded dining room with a $38 swordfish steak any day of the week.
The Great Salt Pond vs. Old Harbor
The island is basically split into two hubs.
Old Harbor is where the ferry drops you. It’s Victorian hotels, gift shops, and people wearing "Block Island" sweatshirts they just bought. It’s charming, but it’s the "tourist" side.
New Harbor, located on the Great Salt Pond, is for the boaters. In the summer, the pond is packed with hundreds of yachts and sailboats. It feels different over there—more open, more about the water than the architecture. If you like paddleboarding or kayaking, this is your spot. The water is calmer than the ocean side, and you can explore the salt marshes without getting crushed by a rogue wave.
The Ghostly Side of the Island
Because it’s an old New England island, people love a good ghost story. The most famous one is the Palatine Light.
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Back in 1738, a ship called the Princess Augusta (often misidentified as the Palatine) wrecked off the coast. Legend says the islanders lured it onto the rocks with false lights to pillage it, then set it on fire while a passenger was still on board. For centuries, people have claimed to see a "fire ship" glowing on the horizon.
Historians like the late local expert Benjamin Kite have largely debunked the "murderous wreckers" part of the story—the islanders actually tried to help the survivors—but the legend persists. It adds a layer of gloom to the foggy nights that you just don't get in Newport.
Hiking the Greenway Trails
If you want to get away from the moped noise, hit the Greenway. This is a network of over 30 miles of hiking trails that crisscross the island.
It’s surprisingly diverse terrain. One minute you’re in a dense "enchanted forest" of scrub oak and bayberry, and the next you’re standing in a wide-open field with views of the ocean on three sides.
Rodman's Hollow is the crown jewel here. It’s a deep glacial outwash plain. No trees, just low-lying shrubs and grasses. It feels like the tundra. It’s a prime spot for birdwatching, especially during the fall migration. Block Island is a major stopover on the Atlantic Flyway. If you’re here in October, the place is crawling with birders with binoculars hoping to spot a rare warbler or a peregrine falcon.
The Reality of the Block Island Wind Farm
You can’t talk about Rhode Island Block Island without mentioning the turbines. To the south, you’ll see five massive wind turbines rising out of the water.
This was the first offshore wind farm in the United States. When it was proposed, people lost their minds. Some thought it would ruin the view; others thought it would kill all the birds. Today, they’ve just kind of become part of the horizon. They provide power to the island, which used to rely entirely on expensive, dirty diesel generators. It’s a weird juxtaposition: one of the oldest, most "preserved" places in America is also the site of its most modern green energy experiment.
Misconceptions and Local Gripes
People think Block Island is just a smaller version of Martha’s Vineyard. It isn't.
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The Vineyard is manicured. Block Island is "scrubby." It’s salt-sprayed and a little bit unkempt. If you’re looking for high-end shopping and celebrity sightings, you’re going to be disappointed. The "celebrities" here are usually just wealthy sailors in beat-up Sperrys and sun-faded hats.
Also, don't call it "The Block." Just call it Block Island.
And for the love of everything, watch out for ticks. Because there are so many deer and so much protected brush, the tick population is aggressive. If you go hiking in the Greenway, wear long socks and check yourself afterward. Lyme disease is a real thing here, and it’s the one part of the "nature" experience you definitely don't want to take home.
The Best Time to Visit (The Secret Season)
Most people come in July and August. It’s packed. It’s sweaty. The lines for everything are an hour long.
The real ones know that September is the "sweet spot." The water is still warm enough to swim, the crowds drop off by 70%, and the light gets this golden, late-afternoon quality that makes every photo look like a postcard. Most businesses stay open through Columbus Day (Indigenous Peoples' Day).
Winter is a different beast entirely. Most of the shops close. The ferry schedule drops to once or twice a day. The wind will bite your face off. But if you want absolute solitude and a chance to see the island in its rawest form, a January trip is a trip you’ll never forget. Just bring a very heavy coat and don't expect to find a hot meal after 6:00 PM.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
To make the most of your time on Rhode Island Block Island, follow this specific sequence:
- Book the Ferry Early: If you're going on a weekend, buy your passenger tickets online a few days in advance. If you're crazy enough to bring a car, book it the moment reservations open in the spring.
- Rent an E-Bike: Traditional bikes are great for exercise, but an e-bike allows you to see the North Light and the Mohegan Bluffs in one day without needing a leg transplant afterward.
- Pack a Backpack: There are very few lockers. You will be carrying everything you bring. Pack light: sunscreen, a windbreaker (it's always 10 degrees cooler on the water), and a reusable water bottle.
- Visit the North Light: Everyone goes to the Southeast Light, but the North Light involves a walk out onto a sandy spit (Sandy Point) that feels like the end of the world. It’s less crowded and better for spotting seals.
- Check the Weather: If the wind is gusting over 25 knots, the ferry might get cancelled. Always check the Block Island Ferry’s social media or website before you drive to the terminal.
The island doesn't change much, which is its greatest strength. It’s a place where you can disconnect, get a little bit sunburned, and remember what it feels like to not have a cell signal for twenty minutes while you're standing at the edge of a cliff.
Go for the day, but try to stay for a night. When the last ferry leaves at 7:00 or 8:00 PM, the island breathes a collective sigh of relief, and that’s when the real magic starts.