Blackjack Strategy: Why Hit or Stay on 16 is the Hardest Call in the House

Blackjack Strategy: Why Hit or Stay on 16 is the Hardest Call in the House

You’re sitting at a sticky felt table, the cocktail waitress just bypassed you for the third time, and the dealer slides a six onto your ten. There it is. The dreaded 16. It’s the most hated hand in blackjack, and for good reason. Honestly, whether you choose to hit or stay on 16, you’re probably going to lose.

That's the part the flashy tutorials usually skip over.

Most players treat 16 like a coin flip. They feel the "vibe" of the room or look at the dealer's face, searching for a tell that isn't there. But blackjack isn't about vibes. It’s a game of eroding the house edge by fractions of a percent. When you're staring down a 16 against a dealer’s 7, 8, 9, 10, or Ace, you are statistically "the underdog." You're basically trying to figure out which way to die that hurts the least.

The Math of the Miserable 16

Let’s get real about the numbers for a second. If you stay on a 16 against a dealer’s 7 or higher, you are hoping—praying, really—that the dealer busts. The problem? Dealers don't bust as often as we'd like to think.

If the dealer shows a 10, they’re going to make a hand of 17 or better about 77% of the time. If you stand, you lose every single one of those times. If you hit, you’re going to bust roughly 62% of the time because any card higher than a 5 sends you over 21.

So, you’re choosing between a 77% chance of losing by standing or a 62% chance of losing by hitting.

It’s a "lesser of two evils" situation. Math says hit. Your gut says stay. Your gut is usually wrong here.

Why the Dealer’s Upcard Changes Everything

Blackjack isn't played in a vacuum. The decision to hit or stay on 16 depends entirely on what that little piece of cardboard in front of the dealer is telling you.

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  • Dealer shows a 2 through 6: This is the "safe zone." You stand. Period. You aren't standing because your 16 is good—it's garbage. You're standing because the dealer is in a "bust-prone" position.
  • Dealer shows a 7 or 8: Now it gets spicy. You hit. You need to improve that 16 because a dealer showing a 7 is likely to end up with 17, and your 16 loses to a 17 every day of the week.
  • Dealer shows a 9, 10, or Ace: You hit. Again. It feels like jumping off a cliff, but the math from experts like Julian Braun and the legendary Edward O. Thorp (the guy who literally wrote the book on card counting, Beat the Dealer) proves that hitting gives you a slightly better chance of survival.

The Surrender Loophole

Wait. There is a third option that people constantly forget.

If the casino allows "Late Surrender," and you're holding a 16 against a dealer's 9, 10, or Ace, you should probably just walk away. Surrendering means you give up half your bet and keep the other half without playing the hand.

It feels like quitting. It feels weak.

But in the long run, surrendering a 16 against a 10-value card is the smartest move you can make. You’re essentially "buying" back 50% of your bet on a hand where you only have about a 25% chance of winning. Professional gamblers don't care about feeling weak; they care about their bankroll.

If you can't surrender, you hit. Always.

What About "Soft" 16?

Everything changes if your 16 includes an Ace. A "Soft 16" (Ace-5) is a totally different beast. You can never bust a soft 16 by hitting it.

Actually, if you're playing according to Basic Strategy, you shouldn't just hit a soft 16—you should often double down. If the dealer shows a 4, 5, or 6, you double that Ace-5. You're looking to capitalize on the dealer’s weakness. If the dealer has anything else, you hit. You never, ever stand on a soft 16. It’s a crime against your own wallet.

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Standing on an Ace-5 is effectively saying, "I think 16 is a great score to end on," when you have a free shot at getting a better hand. Don't do that to yourself.

Common Myths That Will Broke You

There's this guy at every table. You know him. He wears a faded cap, smells slightly of cigar smoke, and gets angry when you hit a 16 and "take the dealer's bust card."

This is the "Flow of the Cards" myth. It's nonsense.

The deck doesn't know you're there. The cards don't have a memory. If you hit a 16 and pull a 5, and the dealer would have busted with that 5, the "table flow" people will glare at you like you just insulted their mother. Ignore them. Statistically, the cards dealt to you have no bearing on the dealer’s long-term probability of busting.

Another big one: "The dealer is due for a bust."

Probability doesn't work like a pendulum. Just because a dealer has made 20 or 21 five times in a row doesn't mean they are more likely to bust on the sixth hand. Each hand is an independent event (mostly, unless you're counting a depleted shoe).

Real-World Example: The 16 vs. 10 Scenario

Imagine you have $100 on the table.
If you stand on 16 vs. a 10, you will win about $23 back for every $100 bet over time (meaning you lose $77).
If you hit, you will win about $25 back for every $100 bet (losing $75).

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Is a $2 difference huge? On one hand, no. Over a weekend in Vegas playing 500 hands? It’s the difference between a nice steak dinner and eating a granola bar in your hotel room.

The Complexity of Multi-Card 16s

Here is a nuance most basic strategy charts don't show you. Some experts, like those who follow the "Griffin Method," suggest that if your 16 is made up of three or more cards (like a 7, 5, and 4), you should actually stand against a dealer 10.

Why? Because you’ve already sucked several "small" cards out of the deck.

If the small cards are in your hand, they aren't in the deck for you to catch when you hit. This is a very marginal gain—we’re talking tiny fractions of a percent—but it shows that even the simple question of hit or stay on 16 has layers. For 99% of players, though, just stick to the standard hit.

Actions to Take at the Table

If you want to stop bleeding money on this specific hand, you need a protocol. Don't think. Just execute.

  1. Check for Surrender: If the dealer has a 9, 10, or Ace, ask "Can I surrender?" If yes, do it. Hand over the cards, take your 50%, and move on.
  2. Identify Soft vs. Hard: Is there an Ace acting as an 11? If yes, it's a Soft 16. Hit it (or double if the dealer is weak).
  3. The Hard 16 Rule: If the dealer shows 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6, you stand. If the dealer shows 7, 8, 9, 10, or Ace, you hit.
  4. Ignore the Table: If the person next to you complains that you "took the dealer's card," smile and keep your eyes on your own chips. Their superstitions are not your financial responsibility.

Blackjack is a game of tiny margins. You aren't going to win every time you hit a 16—in fact, you'll usually lose. But playing the math correctly turns a guaranteed slaughter into a calculated risk. Over thousands of hands, that's how you stay in the game.

Next Steps for the Smart Player

Start by memorizing a Basic Strategy chart specifically for the number of decks used at your favorite casino. A single-deck game has slightly different rules than an eight-deck shoe. Once you have the 16 mastered, look into "Soft 18" strategy, which is the second most misplayed hand in the house. Always check the table rules before sitting down; if a table pays 6:5 on Blackjack instead of 3:2, no amount of perfect hitting or staying on 16 will save your bankroll. Find a 3:2 table, stick to the math, and treat 16 like the math problem it is, not a test of your intuition.