Look at a magazine from 1970 and then look at one from yesterday. You’d think things would be worlds apart, right? In some ways, they are. But if you really dig into the history and the current state of black models in fashion, you start to see these weird, recurring patterns that haven't actually gone away. It’s a mix of massive, glass-ceiling-shattering wins and a whole lot of "one step forward, two steps back" energy.
The industry loves a trend. Sometimes, diversity is treated like a trend. That's the problem.
People usually point to the 1973 "Battle of Versailles" as the big bang moment. It was this legendary fashion show in France where American designers faced off against French designers. The Americans won, basically because they brought ten Black models—including Pat Cleveland and Bethann Hardison—who moved with a soul and energy the stiff Parisian mannequins couldn't touch. It changed everything. Or it was supposed to.
The Reality of the "Token" Slot
We have to talk about the "token" thing. It’s awkward, but it’s real. For decades, casting directors seemingly had a "one at a time" rule. In the 90s, Naomi Campbell was the undisputed queen. She was everywhere. But honestly, her success was often used as an excuse to not hire other Black women. The logic was basically: "We already have Naomi, why do we need another?"
Naomi herself has talked about this. She’s been vocal about how she had to fight for her friends like Tyson Beckford or Iman. It wasn't just about being pretty. It was about politics.
You see it in the data, too. The Fashion Spot has been doing diversity reports for years. Back in 2015, the numbers were pretty dismal. We’re talking maybe 15-20% non-white models on the runways. That’s shifted recently—hitting closer to 40% or 50% in major cities—but the quality of those bookings matters more than the raw number. Is it a lead campaign? Or is it just a background spot in a group shot to check a box?
Beyond the Runway: The "Hair and Makeup" Tax
This is something most people don't think about. A white model shows up to a set, sits in a chair, and the stylist knows exactly what to do. For a long time, black models in fashion had to bring their own makeup kits. They had to do their own hair in the bathroom before the show because the "professional" stylists on set didn't know how to work with 4C hair or deep skin tones.
Imagine being a professional at the top of your game and having to do your own prep because the person hired to do it is incompetent.
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Models like Leomie Anderson and Anok Yai have posted videos about this. It’s better now, mostly because of "The Black Design Collective" and activists pushing for better education in beauty schools, but the gap is still there. If a brand says they are inclusive but doesn't hire a hair stylist who understands texture, they aren't actually inclusive. They're just performing.
Why Scouting is Still Broken
Scouting is weird. It’s often based on "Eurocentric" features. Even when agencies look for Black talent, they often look for a specific "look" that fits a white-dominated aesthetic—thin noses, certain bone structures.
But then you have someone like Alek Wek.
When Alek Wek hit the scene in the late 90s, she blew people's minds. She didn't look like the "commercial" Black models of the time. She had very dark skin, Dinka features, and a short buzz cut. Oprah famously told her that if Alek had been on TV when Oprah was growing up, she would have felt different about herself. That’s the power of visibility. It’s not just about selling a $4,000 bag; it’s about who is "allowed" to be seen as beautiful.
The Rise of the "Instagram Model" vs. High Fashion
Social media changed the gatekeeping. Thank god for that.
Before, a few guys in Milan decided who was "in." Now, a model can build a following on TikTok or Instagram and force the industry to pay attention. Look at Duckie Thot. She gained a massive following and basically bypassed the traditional "begging for a break" phase. Brands had to hire her because she already had the audience.
But there’s a flip side. The "Instagram look" can be very homogenous. It’s a specific type of "racially ambiguous" or highly contoured look that doesn't always translate to genuine diversity. It’s a different kind of pressure.
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The Men Nobody Talks About
We always talk about the women, but Black male models have had a whole different struggle. Tyson Beckford was the first real "supermodel" who was a Black man, thanks to that massive Ralph Lauren contract in the 90s. Before him, it was almost non-existent.
Even today, the pay gap between male and female models is huge, but for Black men, the opportunities are even narrower. They are often pigeonholed into "streetwear" or "athletic" categories. Seeing a Black man in a high-end, tailored couture setting shouldn't feel "revolutionary" in 2026, yet here we are. It’s getting better with designers like late Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, who centered Black masculinity in a way we'd never seen at that level of luxury.
Brands That Actually Get It (And Those That Don't)
- Pyer Moss: Kerby Jean-Raymond doesn't just hire Black models; he tells Black stories. His shows are cultural events.
- Fenty: Rihanna didn't ask for a seat at the table; she built a new house. Savage X Fenty shows changed the industry standard for what "diverse" looks like. It wasn't just skin color; it was body type, ability, and age.
- The "Big" Houses: Brands like Prada and Gucci have had some high-profile stumbles (remember those "blackface" sweater incidents?). They’ve responded by hiring diversity councils, but the results are mixed. Some feel like genuine shifts; others feel like PR firefighting.
Cultural Appropriation vs. Appreciation
This is the thorniest part of the whole conversation. We see Black culture—braids, grills, "street" aesthetics—on white models all the time. But when black models in fashion wear those same things, they are sometimes labeled as "unprofessional" or "too edgy" for certain brands.
It’s a double standard that drives people crazy.
When Marc Jacobs put dreadlocks on mostly white models in 2016, the backlash was massive. The issue wasn't just the hair; it was that he wasn't hiring the people who actually originated the style. You can't love the culture and ignore the people.
Statistics That Matter
In 2023, the "Big Four" fashion weeks (NY, London, Milan, Paris) saw an all-time high of diverse casting. However, a report by Vogue Business noted that while "non-white" representation was up, the specific representation of Dark-skinned Black women actually dipped slightly in certain European markets. It’s like the industry reaches a "quota" and stops.
Also, look at the photographers. Who is behind the lens? If you have a Black model but the photographer doesn't know how to light deep skin tones, the photos will look gray or muddy. This is a technical skill. Tyler Mitchell making history as the first Black photographer to shoot a Vogue cover (Beyoncé, 2018) was a huge deal because it proved that the perspective matters as much as the face in front of the camera.
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How to Actually Support Diversity in Fashion
If you care about this, you've got to look past the runway photos. Diversity isn't just about who is walking; it's about who is making the decisions.
- Follow the money. Look at the creative directors. How many Black designers are heading major houses? Olivier Rousteing at Balmain is one of the few long-term success stories. We need more.
- Check the mastheads. Magazines are the gatekeepers. If the editors and stylists aren't diverse, the content won't be either.
- Support independent Black-owned brands. Labels like Hanifa, Telfar, and Brother Vellies aren't just "diverse"—they are leading the industry in innovation.
- Demand transparency. When a brand posts a black square on Instagram, ask them what their boardroom looks like. Ask how many Black people they have in senior management.
The story of black models in fashion is a story of resilience. It’s about people like Donyale Luna, the first Black model on the cover of Vogue in 1966, who had to move to Europe to find work. It’s about the models today who are using their platforms to demand better makeup, better hair care, and equal pay.
The industry is slowly waking up to the fact that diversity isn't a "charity" move. It’s good business. Black consumers have massive spending power, and they want to see themselves reflected in the clothes they buy. It’s really that simple.
Moving Forward
We aren't in the 70s anymore. We don't need another "Battle of Versailles" to prove that Black models belong. We just need the industry to stop acting like inclusion is a special project and start treating it like the baseline.
Next time you’re scrolling through a lookbook or walking past a storefront, take a second to look. Really look. Is the representation genuine, or is it just a facade? The more we notice, the more they have to change.
Practical Steps for the Fashion Conscious:
- Research the "behind-the-scenes" of your favorite brands via sites like "Diet Prada" or "Fashionista" to see their track record on labor and diversity.
- Invest in "The Black Fashion Directory"—a resource that helps you find and shop Black-owned labels across all price points.
- Challenge "Eurocentric" beauty standards by diversifying your own social media feed. Follow models like Adut Akech, Precious Lee, and Alton Mason to see the breadth of talent currently leading the field.
- Push for education. If you work in the industry or are a student, advocate for curricula that include diverse hair textures and skin tones in technical training.