Honestly, the conversation about being black in the beauty space used to feel like a broken record. For decades, the industry's idea of "inclusion" was tossing one darker shade of foundation into a collection of twenty beige ones and calling it a day. It was frustrating. It was exhausting. But lately, things have shifted in a way that feels less like a trend and more like a permanent structural renovation. We aren't just talking about "nude" shades that actually match melanin anymore; we are talking about who owns the labs, who sits in the C-suite, and who defines what "pretty" even means.
The numbers tell a story that's hard to ignore. According to a massive 2022 report from McKinsey & Company, Black consumers spend disproportionately more on beauty products—roughly $6.6 billion annually—yet they are consistently underserved. That’s a massive gap. It's not just a social issue; it's a glaring business failure. When we look at the landscape of black in the beauty today, we’re seeing a move away from the "diversity" buzzword and toward actual equity.
The Fenty Effect was just the beginning
People love to credit Rihanna for everything. While the launch of Fenty Beauty in 2017 was a watershed moment, it wasn't the first time someone tried to get it right. Brands like Fashion Fair and Black Opal were in the trenches for years before "inclusivity" was a marketing pillar. What Fenty did, though, was prove that inclusivity is insanely profitable.
$500 million in sales during its first full year.
That number forced the "legacy" brands to wake up. They realized that ignoring Black skin wasn't just exclusionary; it was leaving hundreds of millions of dollars on the table. But here is the nuance: shades aren't enough. You can have 50 shades of foundation, but if the formula turns ashy because the chemist didn't understand undertones in darker skin, it's useless. This is where the expertise of Black founders becomes the literal backbone of the modern industry.
Why the "Chemistry Gap" Still Matters
Ever notice how some sunscreens make you look like a ghost? That’s the chemistry gap. Historically, SPF was tested mostly on lighter skin tones. Traditional zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reflect light in a way that creates a white cast.
Shontay Lundy, the founder of Black Girl Sunscreen, basically revolutionized this by creating a synthetic-chemical base that dries completely sheer. It sounds simple, right? It wasn’t. It required a fundamental shift in how products are formulated. We are seeing this same expertise applied to hyperpigmentation. Darker skin is prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Traditional brightening agents like high-percentage hydroquinone can sometimes be too harsh or cause rebound darkening. Brands like Topicals (founded by Olamide Olowe) and Hyper Skin are using ingredients like kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and azelaic acid in specific ratios that respect the skin's biology rather than fighting it.
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The funding hurdle is still very real
Even with the success of brands like Mielle Organics (which was acquired by P&G in a massive 2023 deal) or Pat McGrath Labs (valued at $1 billion), getting off the ground is still a nightmare for Black entrepreneurs.
Only about 1% of venture capital funding goes to Black founders.
Read that again. 1%.
When we talk about the future of black in the beauty, we have to talk about the money. Aurora James started the 15 Percent Pledge in 2020, asking major retailers like Sephora and Ulta to dedicate 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. It worked. Sephora doubled its Black-owned brand offering. Ulta followed suit. But getting on the shelf is only half the battle. Staying there requires marketing capital, supply chain stability, and retail support that many smaller, bootstrapped brands struggle to maintain without that VC backing.
The hair care revolution and the CROWN Act
Beauty isn't just about the face. For the Black community, hair is political, cultural, and deeply personal. The "natural hair movement" of the 2010s wasn't just a style choice; it was a rejection of European beauty standards that forced Black women to chemically straighten their hair to be "professional."
- The CROWN Act: This legislation (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) has been passed in over 20 states. It makes it illegal to discriminate based on hair texture or protective styles like braids and locs.
- The Product Boom: We went from one "ethnic" aisle with three greasy tubs of pomade to entire sections dedicated to 3C, 4A, and 4C hair patterns.
- The Science of Coils: Brands like Briogeo and Pattern Beauty (Tracee Ellis Ross) are focusing on hydration at the molecular level. Coily hair is naturally drier because the scalp's oils have a harder time traveling down the zig-zag shape of the hair shaft.
It’s about the "Who," not just the "What"
Authenticity is the currency of 2026. If a brand posts a black square on Instagram but has zero Black people in its boardroom, the internet will find out. Fast.
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The most successful brands today are those that involve Black creators from the jump. Take Uoma Beauty, founded by Sharon Chuter. She didn't just launch a brand; she launched the "Pull Up For Change" campaign, demanding that companies release their diversity data. It forced a level of transparency we’ve never seen. It showed that being black in the beauty industry is about holding the door open for everyone else once you get inside.
Breaking down the "Universal" myth
For a long time, the beauty industry operated on the "Universal" lie. Universal shades. Universal treatments. Universal "standard" of beauty.
There is no such thing.
The biological reality is that Black skin has more compact dermis layers and larger melanocytes. This means it ages differently (the "Black don't crack" phenomenon is partly due to increased melanin protecting against UV damage), but it also means it reacts differently to trauma. Laser treatments that work on pale skin can cause permanent scarring or keloids on darker skin. Professionals like Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton and Dr. Barbara Sturm (with her darker skin tones line) have highlighted that specialized care isn't a niche—it's a requirement for safety and efficacy.
How to navigate the market as a conscious consumer
If you want to support the growth of black in the beauty and ensure these changes aren't just a flash in the pan, you have to be intentional. It's easy to get overwhelmed by the sheer volume of products, so here is how to actually move the needle:
Check the "About Us" page. Look for who owns the company. Acquisitions by conglomerates like L'Oréal or Unilever aren't necessarily bad—they often provide the scale needed to reach more people—but knowing who the original visionary was matters. Support the "Indies." Small brands often have the most innovative formulas because they aren't trying to please a massive board of directors.
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Look for the 15 Percent Pledge seal. Retailers that have committed to this are held accountable for their inventory. If you don't see Black-owned brands in your local shop, ask the manager why. Consumer demand is the only thing that truly shifts retail behavior.
Ditch the "one size fits all" mindset. If a brand claims their product works perfectly for everyone from the fairest to the deepest tones without showing any evidence or having different formulations, be skeptical. True inclusivity understands that different skin needs different solutions.
What comes next?
The road ahead is about sustainability and legacy. We’ve moved past the initial "gold rush" of inclusivity. Now, the focus is on making sure these brands survive the next 50 years. We are seeing more Black-led investment firms, like Fearless Fund, dedicated specifically to women of color.
We are also seeing a rise in "Gender Neutral" Black-owned beauty. Brands like Ceylon are focusing specifically on the skincare needs of Black men, addressing issues like razor bumps and ingrown hairs that have been ignored by mainstream men's grooming for forever.
The bottom line? Being black in the beauty industry today is about power. It’s about the power to define yourself, the power to create products that actually work, and the power to demand a seat at the table—or better yet, build a whole new table.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Audit your vanity: Take a look at your top five favorite products. How many are from Black-owned or Black-founded companies?
- Follow the experts: Follow dermatologists who specialize in skin of color, like Dr. Adeline Kikam (@brownskinderm), to learn about ingredients that actually benefit your specific skin type.
- Vote with your wallet: Next time you need a staple like cleanser or moisturizer, swap one legacy brand for a Black-owned alternative like Bolden or Buttah Skin. Experience the difference in formulation for yourself.