You’ve probably seen the charts. Those neat little rows of 3A, 4B, and 4C spirals that make everything look so organized and simple. If only. Honestly, identifying black hair curl types is rarely that straightforward. You might have 4C at the crown, 4A at the nape, and something entirely different near your temples. It’s a literal mix.
Most of what we know about typing started with Andre Walker, Oprah’s longtime stylist, back in the 90s. He created a system to sell products. It worked. But it also left a lot of people feeling like their hair didn't quite fit the mold. For years, the conversation stayed on the surface, focusing on how the hair looks rather than how it behaves.
If you're trying to figure out your pattern, you need to look past the "letter and number" system. Texture, porosity, and density matter way more than whether your curl looks like a "Z" or an "S."
Why we still use the 3 to 4 scale (and why it's flawed)
The numerical system is basically the industry standard now. It goes from 1 (straight) to 4 (coily). For most Black people, the conversation lives in the Type 3 and Type 4 range.
Type 3 is usually described as "curly." Think defined, springy loops. Type 4 is "coily" or "kinky." This is where most Black hair resides. 4A looks like tight coils the size of a crochet needle. 4B has a "Z" shape with less defined curl patterns and more shrinkage. Then there's 4C. It’s the most fragile, the most prone to shrinkage, and often lacks a visible curl pattern unless it's soaking wet or styled with heavy product.
✨ Don't miss: 80 Degrees Fahrenheit in Celsius: What You’re Actually Feeling
But here’s the thing.
These categories are just a starting point. They don't account for the fact that Black hair is rarely uniform. You can’t just buy a "4C cream" and expect it to work if your hair is low porosity. If the cuticle is closed tight, that cream is just going to sit on top of your hair like grease on a windowpane. It’s frustrating.
The nuance of Type 4 hair
When people talk about black hair curl types, they often lump all Type 4 hair into one "difficult" category. That’s a mistake. Type 4 hair is actually the most versatile. It can be blown out, slicked down, or puffed up. However, it is also the most delicate because it has fewer cuticle layers than straight hair.
Every bend in a 4C coil is a potential breaking point.
Research from the Society of Cosmetic Chemists shows that the tight curvature of Afro-textured hair makes it harder for natural scalp oils (sebum) to travel down the shaft. That’s why your ends always feel like straw while your scalp might be oily. It’s not "bad" hair. It’s just thirsty hair.
Porosity is the secret boss of hair care
Forget the curl shape for a second. Let's talk about porosity. This is basically your hair’s ability to absorb and keep moisture.
- High Porosity: Your cuticles are wide open. Water goes in fast but leaves even faster. If your hair dries in twenty minutes, this is you. You need heavy butters—shea or mango—to seal that moisture in.
- Low Porosity: The cuticles are tightly packed. Water literally beads up on the surface. You need heat to open those cuticles. Steam is your best friend.
- Medium Porosity: The holy grail. It takes moisture well and holds it.
You can have 4C hair that is low porosity and 4C hair that is high porosity. They need completely different routines. If you’re just following a "4C tutorial" on YouTube without knowing your porosity, you’re basically guessing in the dark.
Beyond the letters: The density and width factor
Ever wondered why two people with the same black hair curl types have hair that looks totally different?
It’s about density and width.
Density is how many hairs are on your head. Width is how thick each individual strand is. You can have "fine" hair—meaning the strands are thin—but have "high density," meaning you have a ton of those thin strands. This is a nightmare for tangles.
On the flip side, someone with "coarse" hair has thick individual strands. These are usually stronger and can handle more heat, but they might feel "rougher" to the touch regardless of how much conditioner you use. Understanding this helps you pick tools. Fine-haired coils shouldn't be using heavy, weighted brushes that might snap the hair.
Misconceptions that just won't die
We need to address the "good hair" myth. It’s still lurking.
For a long time, Type 3 hair was seen as the "attainable" goal, while Type 4 was something to be "tamed" or "fixed." We see this in how products are marketed. "Taming" gels. "Control" pastes. It’s weirdly aggressive language for something that grows out of your head.
The reality? 4C hair can be just as long and healthy as 3A hair. It just looks different because of shrinkage. Shrinkage is actually a sign of healthy, elastic hair. If your 4C hair doesn't shrink when it gets wet, you actually have a problem—probably heat damage or a loss of elasticity.
Also, can we stop saying Black hair grows slowly? It doesn't. On average, hair grows about half an inch a month. The issue for many with Type 4 black hair curl types is retention. The hair breaks at the ends as fast as it grows from the roots. It's a cycle of frustration that usually comes down to over-manipulation or lack of moisture.
Real-world maintenance for different patterns
If you're rocking a 3C or 4A pattern, you can probably get away with a "wash and go." Your curls have enough natural definition to clump together with a bit of gel.
Type 4B and 4C? A wash and go usually ends in a tangled matted mess by day three.
💡 You might also like: Room for rent ny: What Most People Get Wrong About the 2026 Market
For these types, "stretched" styles are the move. Twists, braids, or bantu knots. By stretching the hair, you prevent those tiny coils from wrapping around each other and creating "fairy knots" (trichonodosis). Those tiny knots are the enemy of length. Once they’re there, you usually have to snip them off.
The L.C.O vs. L.O.C Method
This is a big debate in the natural hair community.
- L.O.C: Liquid, Oil, Cream.
- L.C.O: Liquid, Cream, Oil.
Most experts, including many trichologists specializing in Black hair, suggest that L.C.O is better for Type 4 textures. The liquid (water) hydrates, the cream provides more moisture, and the oil acts as the final sealant to lock it all in. If you put oil on before the cream, the oil might actually block the cream from penetrating the hair shaft.
Navigating the product graveyard
We’ve all been there. A cabinet full of half-used bottles.
The trick to stopping the waste is reading labels, not just looking at the "curl type" on the front of the bottle.
- Humectants: Look for glycerin or honey if you live in a climate with moderate humidity. They pull moisture from the air into your hair. But be careful—in bone-dry deserts, humectants can actually pull moisture out of your hair.
- Emollients: These are your oils and butters. Coconut oil is polarizing. Some people's hair loves it; others find it makes their hair feel like straw because the protein mimics can be too much for low-porosity strands.
- Proteins: If your hair feels mushy or won't hold a curl, you need protein. If it feels stiff and snaps easily, stay away from protein.
Actionable steps for mastering your texture
Stop trying to change your curl pattern. You can't. Not without chemicals. The goal should be the healthiest version of the hair you actually have.
Determine your porosity today. Don't do the "float test" in a glass of water—it's notoriously inaccurate because surface tension and hair products can mess with the results. Instead, next time you wash your hair, see how long it takes to get fully saturated. If you’re standing under the shower for three minutes and your hair still feels dry in the middle, you’re low porosity.
Map your head. Spend some time feeling the different textures. Note where it's driest. Usually, the crown gets the most sun and friction, so it needs more love.
Simplify the routine. You don’t need a ten-step process. A solid sulfate-free cleanser, a deep conditioner with "slip," a leave-in, and a sealant. That’s the core.
Protect your ends. The ends of your hair are years old. Treat them like antique lace. Satin bonnets aren't just a cliché; they are a necessity to prevent cotton pillowcases from sucking the life out of your strands while you sleep.
📖 Related: Why White City Soho House Is Actually Better Than The Central London Clubs
Understanding black hair curl types isn't about fitting into a box. It’s about having a vocabulary to describe what your hair needs. Once you stop fighting the natural lean of your coils, everything gets a lot easier. Focus on the health of the strand, keep the moisture locked in, and let the pattern do whatever it wants to do.