The black and white Nike Cortez is a weird sneaker. Honestly, it shouldn't be as popular as it is in 2026. It has a tiny, rounded toe that makes your feet look like little loaves of bread. It uses tech that was cutting-edge when Richard Nixon was in office. Yet, if you walk through Echo Park in LA or a high-end fashion week in Paris, you’ll see them. Everywhere.
It’s the ultimate "if you know, you know" shoe.
Most people think of the Cortez as the "Forrest Gump" shoe—the white leather with the red swoosh and blue stripe. But the black and white version? That’s different. It’s grittier. It’s the uniform of West Coast street culture, the go-to for Kendrick Lamar, and the shoe that basically saved Nike before Nike was even a thing.
The Blood Feud Behind the Design
You can't talk about the black and white Nike Cortez without talking about a massive corporate bridge-burning. Back in the late 60s, Bill Bowerman—the legendary Oregon track coach and Nike co-founder—was actually working with a Japanese company called Onitsuka Tiger (now ASICS).
He wanted a shoe that wouldn't kill a runner's Achilles tendon.
Bowerman’s big idea was a "sandwich" sole. He shoved a layer of hard sponge rubber between two layers of soft rubber. It sounds simple now, but in 1972, it was like discovering fire. The shoe was originally going to be called the "Aztec," but Adidas threatened to sue because they had a shoe called the "Azteca."
In a legendary move of pure pettiness, Bowerman asked, "Who was the guy who kicked the sh*t out of the Aztecs?"
💡 You might also like: Cooper City FL Zip Codes: What Moving Here Is Actually Like
The answer was Hernán Cortés.
And so, the Cortez was born. When Nike and Onitsuka Tiger split, both companies kept making the shoe. Nike kept the Cortez name; Onitsuka had to rename theirs the Corsair. If you look at them side-by-side today, they’re almost identical twins with different parents.
Why the Black and White Colorway Hits Different
While the "Gump" colors are patriotic and bright, the black and white Nike Cortez is the "street" choice. In Los Angeles, specifically, this shoe became a cultural titan. By the 80s and 90s, it was the unofficial footwear of the Chicano community and the burgeoning gangster rap scene.
Eazy-E wore them. Snoop wore them.
It wasn't just about the look. They were cheap, durable, and you could find them at any swap meet. In the early 2010s, Kendrick Lamar brought that energy back to the mainstream. When he rapped, "I ain't rocking no more designer sh*t, white T-shirts and Nike Cortez," on the track Control, sales spiked. He wasn't just talking about a shoe; he was talking about a specific, minimalist LA identity.
Leather vs. Nylon: Which one should you actually buy?
If you're looking for a pair right now, you’ve basically got two choices: the classic leather or the lightweight nylon.
📖 Related: Why People That Died on Their Birthday Are More Common Than You Think
- The Leather Version: This is the "Dope Man" classic. It’s stiffer, holds its shape better, and looks "cleaner" with a pair of crisp khakis or Dickies. The downside? They crease like crazy. Within three days, you'll have a permanent line across the toe.
- The Nylon Version: These are way more comfortable. They’re lighter, more breathable, and they don’t show creases as much. But they feel "flimsier." If you’re going for the retro 70s track vibe, go nylon. If you want the LA street look, it has to be leather.
Sizing is a Nightmare (Don't Say I Didn't Warn You)
Here is the most important thing you need to know: the Nike Cortez runs small. Like, remarkably small.
The silhouette is narrow. If you have wide feet, these will feel like a medieval torture device for the first two weeks. Most experts and long-time heads recommend going up at least a half-size. If you have particularly wide feet, you might even need a full size up.
Because the toe box is so tapered, your toes don't have anywhere to splay. In 2023, Nike actually updated the model (the "Cortez23") to have a slightly wider toe area and firmer side panels to stop warping, but they still fit snug. Don't buy your "True to Size" (TTS) here unless you like losing circulation.
How to Style Them Without Looking Like a Costume
The danger with the black and white Nike Cortez is that you can accidentally look like you're wearing a 1972 Olympics costume or a movie extra outfit.
The Modern Way:
Forget the skinny jeans. The Cortez has a very slim profile, so wearing them with tight pants makes your feet look like weird little flippers. Instead, go for a straight-leg trouser or a slightly baggy denim that hits right at the top of the shoe. A simple white tee and a workwear jacket (like a Carhartt Detroit) is the gold standard.
The Bella Hadid Way:
In 2017, Bella Hadid famously recreated the Farrah Fawcett "skateboarding" photo for the shoe’s 45th anniversary. It proved the Cortez works with high-fashion athleisure. Think oversized joggers, a cropped top, and white crew socks pulled up high.
👉 See also: Marie Kondo The Life Changing Magic of Tidying Up: What Most People Get Wrong
Keeping the White "White"
The problem with the black and white colorway is the midsole. It’s a massive slab of white foam and rubber that attracts dirt like a magnet.
- Don't use the washing machine. The heat can melt the glue and cause the sole to "delaminate" or peel away from the upper.
- Micellar water is a secret weapon. If you have the leather version, a cotton pad with some micellar water (the makeup remover stuff) takes scuffs off the white swoosh instantly without damaging the finish.
- Toothpaste for the midsole. If the "teeth" on the herringbone sole get brown, a non-gel white toothpaste and an old toothbrush will get them back to bright white.
The Reality Check
Is it the most comfortable shoe in the world? No. Not anymore.
Compared to a New Balance 990 or a Nike Invincible with ZoomX foam, the Cortez feels like walking on a piece of plywood. There is zero arch support. If you're planning on walking 20,000 steps at Disney World, leave these in the hotel.
But as a style statement, it’s bulletproof. It’s a shoe that has survived gang wars, Olympic scandals, and the death of disco. It's a piece of history you can wear.
Next Steps for Your Collection:
- Check your current size in a Nike Air Force 1. Since those run big, you’ll likely need to go a full size up from your AF1 size to fit into a Cortez comfortably.
- Look for the "Premium" (PRM) versions. The leather quality is significantly better than the standard "Retro" releases and won't flake as easily.
- Decide on your "vibe"—if you want the 70s look, hunt for the nylon pairs with the exposed foam tongue. For the 90s street look, stick to the all-leather black and white.