Skiing in the Midwest is a weird, beautiful beast. It’s not about the twenty-minute alpine descents or the high-altitude oxygen deprivation you get in Colorado. Honestly, it’s about the grit, the lake effect powder, and finding that one spot that feels like a time capsule in the best way possible. That’s Indianhead Mountain Ski Resort. Or, if you’re keeping up with the times, the Indianhead side of what everyone now calls Big Snow Resort.
Located in Wakefield, Michigan, right in the heart of Big Snow Country, this place gets hit with an absurd amount of lake effect snow from Lake Superior. We are talking an average of 170 inches a year. It’s a lot. Sometimes it’s so much that the drive up US-2 feels more like navigating a salt-crusted tunnel than a highway. But that’s the trade-off for getting some of the best conditions in the Upper Peninsula.
The Upside-Down Reality of Indianhead Mountain
Most ski hills work a certain way. You park at the bottom, look up at the daunting peak, and take a lift to the top. Indianhead flips the script. It’s an "upside-down" resort. You drive to the top of the mountain to park, check in, and eat. Your first run of the day starts right outside the lodge door. You just... gravity takes over.
It’s a bit trippy the first time. You’re looking out of the lodge windows at the top of the lift lines instead of the bottom. This layout actually changes the whole vibe of the day. Instead of shivering at a base area waiting for your friends, everyone congregates at the summit. The Sky Bar and the lodge are right there. You can do a few laps, pop in for a burger, and you're back on the hill in seconds.
The vertical drop is about 638 feet. In the grand scheme of global skiing, that sounds tiny. But in the Midwest? That’s respectable. It’s enough to get your heart rate up, especially if you’re hitting the runs on the far West Peak.
Why the Big Snow Merger Changed Everything
A few years back, Indianhead merged with Blackjack Mountain to become Big Snow Resort. This wasn't just a corporate rebranding exercise. It was a survival move that actually benefited the skiers. One pass now gets you onto both mountains.
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They run a shuttle—basically a big, rumbling bus—between the two hills. It takes maybe ten minutes. Indianhead is generally seen as the more "classic" side with wider, groomed cruisers. Blackjack has a bit more of a rugged, technical feel. If the wind is whipping across the face of Indianhead, you can usually hop over to Blackjack and find some shelter in the trees.
You’ve got 638 feet of vertical at Indianhead and 490 feet at Blackjack. Combined, it’s over 400 acres of skiable terrain. That’s a massive footprint for Michigan. You aren't going to get bored in a single afternoon.
The Terrain: From "Voyageur" to the Steeps
Let’s talk about the actual skiing. Indianhead is famous for its wide-open runs. If you like carving big, sweeping turns without worrying about colliding with a stray six-year-old every five seconds, this is your place.
- Voyageur: This is the quintessential Indianhead run. It’s wide. It’s long. It’s perfectly groomed. On a Tuesday morning after a fresh dusting, it feels like you own the mountain.
- Tomahawk and Winnebago: These are the workhorses. Great for intermediate skiers who want to build confidence.
- The East Side: This is where things get a bit more interesting for the experts. There are some gladed areas and steeper pitches that will actually test your edges if the snow has turned to that "Midwest hardpack" (which is just a polite word for ice).
The lift system is... well, it’s vintage. You aren't going to find many high-speed detachable quads here. It’s a lot of double and triple chairs that move at a leisurely pace. Some people complain about the speed. Personally? I think it’s part of the charm. It gives you time to actually talk to the person next to you or just stare at the frosted pines. Plus, it keeps the trails from getting overcrowded. If the lifts moved twice as fast, the runs would be twice as packed.
The Legend of the Lake Effect
You cannot talk about Indianhead Mountain Ski Resort without talking about the "Gogebic Fringe." Because of how the moisture picks up over Lake Superior and hits the elevation of the Penokee Range, this specific pocket of Michigan gets dumped on.
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I’ve seen days where the rest of the state is brown and grass-spotted, but Wakefield is buried under three feet of the white stuff. It’s a microclimate. It’s also why the season here often lasts longer than at resorts further south in Wisconsin or lower Michigan. They have snowmaking, sure, but Mother Nature does most of the heavy lifting.
The Vibe: No Frills, All Thrills
If you’re looking for the glitz of Vail or the high-end shopping of Aspen, stay home. Indianhead is delightfully unpretentious. The lodge has that wood-paneled, 1970s Northwoods aesthetic that you just can't fake. It smells like woodsmoke and damp wool.
The Dudley Kitchen and the Sky Bar are the social hubs. The food is exactly what you want when it’s ten degrees outside: heavy, hot, and filling. Think chili, massive burgers, and locally brewed beers. There’s often live music on the weekends—usually a guy with a guitar playing classic rock covers while people in snow pants clink glasses. It’s cozy. It feels like a community.
Where to Stay Without Breaking the Bank
Since the resort is at the top of the hill, the lodging is also at the top. You can get hotel-style rooms in the main lodge, or you can rent one of the trailside condos.
- The Main Lodge: Best for couples or solo travelers. You’re steps away from the food and the lifts.
- Trailside Condos: These are the move if you have a family or a group of friends. Most have kitchens, so you can cook your own meals and save some cash.
- The Village Chalets: A bit more private, often tucked into the woods.
One thing to keep in mind: cell service can be spotty. The Wi-Fi in the lodge is okay, but don't expect to be streaming 4K video flawlessly. You’re in the U.P. now. Unplugging is part of the deal.
Addressing the Elephant in the Room: The "Old" Factor
Some critics say Indianhead is "dated." They point to the older lifts and the retro decor as a negative.
I disagree.
In a world where every ski resort is being bought up by mega-corporations and turned into a sterile, overpriced "experience," Indianhead feels authentic. It’s a place where the lift operators remember your face and the beer doesn't cost twenty dollars. Is it fancy? No. Is it one of the best places to actually ski in the Midwest? Absolutely.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
Planning a trip here requires a little bit of strategy, especially given the remote location.
Watch the "Snow Chasers" Reports.
Don't just look at the general weather. Follow local U.P. weather blogs. If a North-Northwest wind is blowing across Lake Superior, Indianhead is about to get hammered. That’s when you want to be there.
Check the Lift Status for Both Mountains.
Since your ticket covers Indianhead and Blackjack, check the morning report. If one side is on a wind-hold or undergoing maintenance, just head to the other.
Bring Your Own Gear if You Can.
The rental shop is efficient, but on busy holiday weekends, the lines can be a grind. Having your own boots and skis saves you an hour of standing around when you could be on the snow.
Explore Wakefield and Ironwood.
Don't just stay on the mountain. Go into town. Ironwood has some great little bakeries and "pasty" shops. If you haven't had a U.P. pasty (a savory meat pie), you haven't lived. It’s the official fuel of Northwoods skiing.
Mid-Week is King.
If you can swing a Tuesday or Wednesday trip, do it. You’ll have the runs to yourself. The "upside-down" nature of the resort means you can park right next to the lodge and feel like a VIP without the price tag.
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Check for Multi-Day Discounts.
Big Snow Resort almost always has better deals if you buy two or three days at once online versus walking up to the window for a single day.
Indianhead Mountain Ski Resort remains a cornerstone of Michigan skiing because it knows what it is. It’s a big, snowy, friendly hill that prioritizes the ride over the fluff. Whether you’re a lifelong "Yooper" or a weekend warrior from Chicago, the first time you drop off the top of that mountain into a cloud of lake effect powder, you’ll get why people keep coming back.