It’s easy to write off Bexhill on Sea as just another quiet spot on the South Coast where people go to retire and look at the English Channel. Honestly, if you just drive through the outskirts, you might think that’s all there is to it. But you’d be wrong. There’s a weird, modernist, slightly rebellious energy here that you don't find in nearby Eastbourne or the chaotic lanes of Brighton. It’s a town that exists because an Earl wanted to build a resort, survived a World War that nearly flattened its spirit, and eventually became the birthplace of British motor racing.
Walking down the promenade today, you get this strange mix of Victorian elegance and 1930s futurism. It’s quiet. Then it’s loud. It’s a bit windy, obviously, but there’s a grit to it that keeps it from feeling like a museum. People come here for the peace, sure, but they stay because the town doesn't try too hard to impress you. It just is.
The De La Warr Pavilion is the weird heart of the town
You can’t talk about Bexhill on Sea without mentioning the De La Warr Pavilion. It’s basically the reason people visit. Back in 1935, the 9th Earl De La Warr decided the town needed a "people's palace" for culture. He didn't want some stuffy Victorian ballroom. He wanted something that looked like it belonged in the future.
Architects Erich Mendelsohn and Serge Chermayeff delivered. It was the first major UK public building built with a welded steel frame. People hated it at first. They thought it looked like a giant ocean liner had run aground on the beach. Now? It’s a Grade I listed masterpiece.
Inside, the light is incredible. There’s a spiral staircase that feels like it belongs in a Bond villain’s lair. You can grab a coffee, sit on the balcony, and watch the waves. The gallery space upstairs pulls in some seriously heavy hitters in the contemporary art world. I’ve seen exhibitions there that you’d expect to find in the Tate Modern, not a small town in East Sussex. It’s free to enter most of the time, which fits the Earl’s original vision of it being for everyone, not just the elite.
It’s a bit of a miracle the building is still standing. During WWII, it was a prime target and suffered significant damage. For decades after the war, it sort of languished. It got a bit tatty. The paint peeled. Then, in the early 2000s, a massive restoration project brought it back to life. It’s the anchor that keeps Bexhill from drifting into obscurity.
What most people get wrong about the local history
Everyone knows the Battle of Hastings happened nearby in 1066. But Bexhill has its own deep-seated quirks that often get overlooked by the history books. Did you know this was the site of the first ever motor race in Britain? In May 1902, the 8th Earl De La Warr (the current one's predecessor) organized a "speed trial."
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Cars were still a terrifying new invention to most people. Yet, there they were, tearing down the promenade at speeds that would make a modern cyclist laugh but were revolutionary at the time. A Frenchman named Léon Serpollet won the event in a steam-powered car called the "Easter Egg." He hit 54 mph. In 1902! That’s basically light speed when your main mode of transport is a horse.
Every year, the town tries to recapture that madness with the Festival of Motoring. It’s not quite the high-speed thrill ride it once was, but seeing those vintage machines lined up against the sea is a trip.
The King German Legion and the military shadow
There’s also this hidden military history. During the Napoleonic Wars, Bexhill was a massive garrison town. Thousands of soldiers from the King’s German Legion were stationed here. They weren't just passing through; they lived here, married local women, and left a mark on the town’s DNA.
The Bexhill Museum, which is located in Egerton Park, does a great job of showing this off without being boring. It’s not just dusty cabinets. They’ve got a massive collection of costumes, some of which were donated by comedian Eddie Izzard, who grew up here and is a huge patron of the town. The museum also has a scale model of the original motor race track, which helps you visualize how the town looked before the modern era took over.
Living the quiet life (or at least trying to)
If you’re thinking about moving to Bexhill on Sea, you need to understand the pace. It’s slow. On a Tuesday morning in November, the high street—Sackville Road and Western Road—feels like a different century. There are lots of independent shops. Charity shops too, obviously. But also some really decent antique dealers and record stores.
The housing market is a bit of a tug-of-war. For years, it was the affordable alternative to Brighton. You could get a massive Victorian terrace with sea views for a fraction of the price. That secret is well and truly out now. Londoners "discovered" Bexhill during the pandemic, and prices jumped. It’s still cheaper than the big cities, but the "hidden gem" discount is fading.
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The community is tight-knit. There’s a certain pride in being a "Bexhillian." It’s not just a place to live; it’s a lifestyle choice. You have to be okay with the fact that things close early. You have to be okay with the wind. The wind in Bexhill is a physical presence. It shapes the trees, it shapes the buildings, and it definitely shapes your hair if you spend more than five minutes on the seafront.
The beach isn't what you think
If you’re looking for golden sands and palm trees, go somewhere else. Bexhill’s beach is shingle. Big, chunky pebbles that crunch underfoot. When the tide goes out, you get some sand and some great rock pools, but mostly it’s a rugged, stony affair.
That’s the charm, though. It’s not a "tourist" beach in the sense of donkey rides and candy floss stands every ten yards. It’s a walking beach. It’s a thinking beach. You can walk for miles towards Hastings in one direction or Pevensey Bay in the other.
Colonnade and the promenade are the places to be seen. The Colonnade itself—built into the structure of the De La Warr Pavilion’s terrace—is a beautiful spot to watch the sunset. It’s got these shelters that look like they’ve been there forever, providing a bit of respite from that relentless sea breeze.
Where to actually eat and drink
Food in Bexhill has improved massively. For a long time, it was just fish and chips or a beige carvery. Now? You’ve got options.
- The Sovereign: It’s a classic pub vibe but the food is solid.
- Wickham Bistro: Good for a proper breakfast or a posh lunch.
- Minnie Bertha's: If you want that traditional seaside fish and chips experience without the tourist trap feel.
- The De La Warr Cafe: Honestly, just for the view. The food is fine, but sitting there with a view of the horizon is the real draw.
There’s also a growing number of little cafes tucked away in the backstreets. You just have to wander. Bexhill isn't a town that yields its secrets to people who stay on the main road. You have to duck down the side streets to find the best coffee or that one shop that sells 1950s film posters.
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Navigating the local quirks
Parking can be a nightmare in the summer, despite the town being "quiet." The seafront fills up fast. If you’re visiting, take the train. The station is a beautiful Victorian building and it’s only a five-minute walk to the water. The line connects directly to London Victoria and Brighton, making it incredibly accessible for a day trip.
One thing you'll notice is the age gap. There is a high population of retirees, yes. But there’s also a growing creative class. Musicians, artists, and writers are moving here because it’s inspiring. It’s a town of contrasts. You’ll see an elderly couple in their Sunday best walking past a teenager with neon hair and a skateboard. Everyone seems to get along just fine.
Bexhill on Sea: The Reality Check
Is it perfect? No. The town centre could use a bit of love in places. Some of the storefronts look like they haven't been painted since the 80s. The nightlife is... well, it’s mostly non-existent if you’re looking for clubs. It’s a "glass of wine by the sea" kind of town, not a "party until 4 am" kind of town.
But that’s exactly why people like it. It’s authentic. It hasn't been "Disney-fied" like some other coastal resorts. It’s a working town that happens to have a world-class art gallery and a very long beach.
What you should actually do when you visit:
- Check the De La Warr Pavilion schedule. Don't just turn up. They have incredible gigs—everyone from Elvis Costello to Patti Smith has played there.
- Visit Egerton Park. It’s just behind the seafront. It has a great boating lake and the museum. It’s surprisingly lush and a good break from the salt air.
- Walk to Galley Hill. At the eastern end of the promenade, the ground rises up. The views from the top across the bay are the best in town.
- Explore the Old Town. Most people miss this. It’s up the hill, away from the sea. It’s the original heart of Bexhill, with 16th-century buildings and a much more "village" feel.
- Time your visit for the tide. The beach is infinitely better when the tide is out and the sand flats are exposed. Check a tide table before you leave.
Bexhill on Sea doesn't scream for your attention. It’s more of a polite suggestion. But if you take the time to look past the "quiet retirement" stereotype, you find a place with a very specific, very cool identity. It’s a town of pioneers, from the 1930s architects to the 1900s racing drivers. It’s a place that knows exactly what it is, and it doesn't care if you like it or not. Which, in my book, makes it well worth the trip.
Next steps for your visit:
- Check the De La Warr Pavilion website for current exhibitions and live music tickets.
- Look up the tide times for the East Sussex coast to ensure you catch the low tide for a beach walk.
- Book a table at one of the independent bistros on Western Road if you're planning a weekend visit, as they fill up with locals quickly.