You’re standing in the condiment aisle, staring at a wall of yellow and beige glass jars. You probably reach for the one with the fanciest-looking cursive or the one that reminds you of those 80s commercials with the limousines. We’ve all been there. But honestly, most of the stuff sitting on American grocery shelves isn’t actually Dijon mustard in the way a French chef would define it.
It’s just "Dijon-style."
There’s a huge difference between a jar that uses distilled vinegar and one that uses verjuice or white wine. If you’ve ever made a vinaigrette that tasted way too harsh or a cream sauce that felt "off," the brand of mustard you used is likely the culprit.
The Reality of Dijon Mustard Brands
If you want the real deal, you have to look past the marketing. In 1937, a French decree basically said the name "Dijon Mustard" could be used for a specific recipe, regardless of where it was actually made. This means a jar can be made in Ohio or Canada and still call itself Dijon. However, Moutarde de Bourgogne is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). That’s the high-end stuff. It has to be made in Burgundy with local seeds and white wine.
Edmond Fallot: The Chef’s Secret
Most foodies will tell you that Edmond Fallot is the gold standard. They are one of the last independent, family-owned "moutarderies" in Beaune. They still use traditional stone mills. Why does that matter? Industrial steel grinders heat up the seeds, which can dull the flavor. Stone grinding keeps things cool and preserves those volatile oils that give you that signature nose-clearing burn.
Their "Moutarde de Bourgogne" is different from their standard Dijon. It uses AOC white wine from Burgundy. It’s smooth but has a depth that cheap brands just can’t replicate. You’ve probably seen it in those charming ceramic crocks. It’s not just for show; it actually helps preserve the spice.
Maille: The Accessible Legend
You’ve seen Maille. It’s everywhere. Founded in 1747, it’s one of the oldest brands in existence. While it’s mass-produced now (owned by Unilever), it remains remarkably consistent. If you’re buying their "Originale," you’re getting a very smooth, high-acid mustard that’s perfect for emulsifying a dressing.
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It’s got that sharp, vinegary punch. Some people find it a bit one-note compared to artisanal brands, but for an everyday workhorse, it’s hard to beat.
Grey Poupon: The American Icon
Here’s the thing about Grey Poupon. In the US, it’s made by Kraft Heinz. In France, it’s a different beast. The American version uses distilled vinegar. It’s still a solid mustard—don’t get me wrong—but it has a "chalky" texture that some professional cooks dislike. It’s a bit more "brash" and less wine-forward than its French cousins. But hey, it’s reliable and you can find it at any gas station in a pinch.
How to Spot a Fake on the Label
You can usually tell if a brand is worth your money just by looking at the back of the jar.
- The Acid Source: If the first or second ingredient is "distilled white vinegar," it’s going to be sharp and one-dimensional. Look for white wine or Burgundy wine.
- The Seed: Authentic Dijon uses brown or black mustard seeds. Yellow seeds are for the bright yellow stuff you put on ballpark franks.
- The Additives: Real mustard doesn't need much. If you see thickeners or "mustard flour" instead of whole ground seeds, put it back.
Roland and Other Budget Heroes
If you don't want to spend ten bucks on a jar of mustard, Roland is a surprisingly good French import. It’s often cheaper than the big names but sticks closer to the traditional French profile. It’s a great "pantry" choice for when you’re making a marinade and don't want to waste the expensive Fallot.
Trader Joe’s also has a cult following for its Dijon. It’s made in France and is notoriously spicy. Like, "clear your sinuses for three days" spicy. If you like heat, that’s your winner.
Why Your Mustard Loses Its Kick
Mustard is alive. Sorta.
The heat comes from an enzyme reaction that happens when the seeds are crushed and hit liquid. But that heat is volatile. It fades. If you have a jar of Dijon that’s been sitting in your fridge since the Obama administration, it’s basically just bitter paste now.
Always buy the smallest jar you think you’ll use. Heat and light are the enemies. If you leave a jar on a sunny counter, it’ll lose its flavor in weeks. Keep it in the back of the fridge.
Making the Most of Your Choice
The brand you choose should depend on what you’re doing.
For a Beurre Blanc or a delicate fish sauce, you want something refined like Edmond Fallot or Delouis Fils. Their flavors are nuanced enough to complement the wine in your sauce.
For a glaze on a holiday ham or a robust marinade for flank steak, Maille or even Grey Poupon works better because the high acidity holds up against the sugar and fat.
Surprising Pairings
Don't just stick to vinaigrettes.
- Mac and Cheese: A teaspoon of sharp Dijon cuts through the heavy fat of the cheese and makes the cheddar taste "cheederier."
- Mashed Potatoes: It adds a tang that’s more interesting than just sour cream.
- Pan Sauces: After searing pork chops, deglaze with a splash of wine and a big dollop of Dijon. It acts as a natural emulsifier, thickening the sauce without needing a roux.
The Next Level: Beyond Smooth Dijon
Sometimes you want texture. Maille Old Style (the one with the whole seeds) is fantastic, but again, check out Edmond Fallot’s Seed Style. It has a pop-in-your-mouth quality that’s incredible on a charcuterie board.
There’s also Moutarde Forte (Extra Strong). Brands like Beaufor or Roland Extra Strong use a higher concentration of brown seeds. It’s not "pepper hot," it’s "wasabi hot." It hits the back of your throat and then vanishes.
Practical Steps for Your Next Shop
Stop buying "Dijon-style" mustard made with plain vinegar if you want to cook like a pro. Start by picking up a jar of Maille for your everyday needs and a small jar of Edmond Fallot for your "fancy" cooking. Compare them side-by-side on a pretzel. You’ll notice the Fallot has a floral, wine-like aroma that the Maille lacks.
Check the "best by" date and grab the one furthest in the future. Once you open it, you’ve got about two months of peak flavor before it starts to mellow out into mediocrity.
Invest in better mustard. It’s the cheapest way to make your home cooking taste like it came from a bistro.
Next Steps:
- Check the ingredients on your current jar of Dijon; if vinegar is the primary acid, try replacing it with a wine-based brand like Maille or Edmond Fallot.
- Test the "heat" of your mustard by tasting a small amount on a cracker; if it doesn't have a sharp, upward-hitting spice, it's time to toss it.
- Use a dollop of high-quality Dijon as an emulsifier in your next homemade salad dressing to prevent the oil and vinegar from separating.