You’ve seen the photos. A bright red train snakes across a curved stone bridge, surrounded by jagged peaks and impossibly blue ice. It looks like a postcard. It looks, honestly, a bit fake. But the Bernina Express route Switzerland is very real, and if you're planning to ride it, you should know that the experience is less about luxury and more about a dizzying piece of engineering that somehow survived the 20th century. This isn't the Orient Express. You won't find mahogany-paneled sleeping quarters or five-course gala dinners served by waiters in white gloves. Instead, you get a seat, a massive window, and a front-row view of geography that wants to kill you.
It’s high. Really high.
We are talking about a railway that hits 2,253 meters (about 7,391 feet) above sea level at Ospizio Bernina. That makes it the highest railway crossing in Europe. The wild part? It does it without a cogwheel. Most mountain trains use a rack-and-pinion system—basically gears—to claw their way up steep slopes. The Bernina Express just uses friction and sheer Swiss stubbornness.
What Actually Happens on the Bernina Express Route Switzerland
The journey starts in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland. Or, if you’re coming from the south, it starts in Tirano, Italy. Most people do the north-to-south trek. You leave the valley, and within minutes, the train is basically trying to climb a wall.
The first major "oh wow" moment is the Landwasser Viaduct. You’ve definitely seen this in every Swiss travel brochure ever printed. It’s a 65-meter high limestone bridge that leads directly into a tunnel cut into a sheer cliff face. If you want the shot, sit on the right side of the train heading south. But honestly, everyone knows this spot. The real magic happens later, once you pass Filisur and start the climb toward the Albula Pass.
This section is a maze. Because the incline is so steep, the tracks have to loop over themselves in "helical" tunnels. You’ll see a village on your left, enter a tunnel, turn 360 degrees inside the mountain, and emerge to see the same village, only now it's way below you on the right. It’s disorienting. It’s brilliant.
The Transition from Ice to Palms
One of the weirdest things about the Bernina Express route Switzerland is the climate shift. You start in the high Alpine world of the Engadin. At Alp Grüm, you are looking directly at the Palü Glacier. It’s cold. It’s rugged. There are literally no trees, just rocks and ice and the sound of the wind.
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Then, you start the descent.
In about two hours, the train drops roughly 1,800 meters in altitude. You go from glaciers to Poschiavo, a town that feels distinctly Italian, and then finally across the border into Tirano. Suddenly, there are palm trees. You can smell espresso and pizza. The air is thick and warm. It’s one of the few places on earth where you can touch a glacier in the morning and be sitting in a sun-drenched Italian piazza by lunch.
The Brusio Spiral: A Solution to a Steep Problem
If you look at the map near the Italian border, there's a weird little circle in the tracks. This is the Brusio Spiral Viaduct. It’s probably the most iconic piece of the Bernina Express route Switzerland.
Why does it exist?
Basically, the valley floor was too close, and the train was too high. If the tracks went straight down, the train would effectively become a very heavy, very expensive sled. To lose height safely, the engineers built a 360-degree corkscrew bridge. The train literally rides over itself. It’s a 70-meter radius curve that allows the train to descend gracefully into the valley.
It’s an engineering flex.
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- Total distance: 122 kilometers (76 miles)
- Number of tunnels: 55
- Number of bridges: 196
- Maximum gradient: 7% (which is insane for a regular rail line)
Common Mistakes People Make (And How to Avoid Them)
Look, I’ll be straight with you: the "official" Bernina Express train has those big panoramic windows that curve into the ceiling. They are great for photos. However, they don't open. If you’re a photographer, you’re going to be fighting glare and reflections the whole time.
Here is a pro tip: take the regional trains instead.
They run on the exact same Bernina Express route Switzerland, often once an hour. They don't require a seat reservation fee (which can be 20-30 CHF depending on the season). Most importantly, the windows on the older regional carriages actually pull down. You can stick your head out—carefully—and get crystal-clear photos of the Landwasser Viaduct without a window pane in the way. Plus, the regional trains are usually half-empty, meaning you can jump from side to side to catch the best views.
Food and Coffee
There is no dining car on the Bernina Express. They have a little trolley that sells snacks and "Bernina-themed" chocolate, but don't expect a meal. Pack a bag. Go to a Coop or Migros grocery store in Chur or St. Moritz before you board. Get some Bündner Nusstorte (a local nut tart), some Swiss cheese, and a bottle of wine. Having a picnic at 7,000 feet while staring at a glacier is a much better vibe than eating a pre-packaged sandwich from a trolley.
Dealing with the Crowds and Timing
Summer is packed. Winter is stunning but the days are short.
If you go in October, you get the "Golden Larch" season. The trees turn a brilliant yellow-orange against the white snow on the peaks. It's arguably the most beautiful time for the Bernina Express route Switzerland.
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If you’re doing the full loop, you’ll likely end up in Tirano. From there, most people take the "Bernina Express Bus" to Lugano. Warning: this bus ride is long. It’s about three hours of winding roads along Lake Como. If you get motion sickness, this bus is your nightmare. A better alternative? Spend the night in Tirano or hop on an Italian regional train down to Milan. It's easy, cheap, and gives you a taste of two different countries in one go.
The UNESCO Status
It’s worth noting that this entire line—the Albula and Bernina landscapes—is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s one of only three railways in the world to have that honor. It isn't just about the view; it's about how the railway was built to harmonize with the mountains rather than just blasting through them.
The engineers followed the contours of the land. They used local stone for the bridges. Even 100 years later, the structures look like they grew out of the mountainside.
Practical Logistics for Your Trip
To make the most of the Bernina Express route Switzerland, you need to understand the ticketing. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass or an Interrail/Eurail pass, the journey is covered. You just have to pay the reservation fee if you want the panoramic car.
If you are buying a point-to-point ticket, it's expensive. Switzerland isn't cheap. A round trip can easily set you back 130+ CHF.
- Check the SBB (Swiss Federal Railways) app. It is the gold standard for European rail apps.
- Look for "Supersaver" tickets if you are booking in advance and don't have a pass.
- Don't rush. If you see a town that looks cool—like Pontresina or Poschiavo—get off. Your ticket (if it's a regional one or a pass) allows you to hop on and off.
Why the Northbound Route is Underrated
Most people go south because they want to end in Italy. But going north from Tirano to Chur is actually pretty spectacular. You start in the heat and gradually climb into the "Throne of the Alps." There is something dramatic about the temperature dropping and the landscape getting harsher and more epic as the day goes on. Plus, the northbound trains are often less crowded than the morning departures from Chur.
Honestly, the Bernina Express route Switzerland is one of those rare "bucket list" items that actually lives up to the hype. It’s not a tourist trap. It’s a feat of human ingenuity that happens to pass through some of the most beautiful scenery on the planet. Just remember to bring your own snacks, consider the regional train for better photos, and don't forget your passport for the border crossing into Italy.
Final Actionable Steps for Your Journey
- Download the "SBB Mobile" app immediately. It handles all Swiss train schedules and ticket purchases with 100% accuracy.
- Book reservations 2-3 months in advance if you absolutely insist on the panoramic carriages during peak summer (July-August) or Christmas.
- Sit on the right side when traveling south from Chur to Filisur for the best view of the Landwasser Viaduct.
- Pack layers. Even in mid-July, the temperature at Ospizio Bernina can be 10-15 degrees colder than it is in the valleys.
- Validate your pass. If using a paper Eurail pass, ensure it's validated at a ticket window before you board your first train to avoid heavy fines.
- Look into the Bernina Glaciers app. It provides audio commentary based on your GPS location as you move along the route, explaining the history of the tunnels and peaks you're passing.
The Bernina line isn't just a way to get from A to B. It is the destination. Give yourself the full day, stop for a coffee at Alp Grüm, and actually look at the mountains instead of just viewing them through your phone screen. You'll realize pretty quickly why the Swiss are so proud of this specific stretch of track.