Finding the right blue paint is honestly a nightmare. You pick a swatch that looks like a calm coastal breeze, but the second it hits your drywall, it morphs into "nursery boy blue" or, worse, a cold, clinical grey that makes your living room feel like a doctor’s waiting room. That’s why Benjamin Moore Stratford Blue (part of their Historical Collection, HC-158) has stayed relevant for decades while trendier teals have come and gone. It’s a bit of a shapeshifter.
It isn't a "true" blue. If you’re looking for a primary color or a bright navy, look elsewhere. This is a deeply saturated, medium-toned blue with heavy gray and green undertones. It’s moody. It’s sophisticated. And it’s one of the few colors that actually holds its own in a room with terrible natural lighting.
What is Stratford Blue?
Most people think they want a light, airy blue. Then they realize light blues often wash out and look white or pale violet under LED bulbs. Benjamin Moore Stratford Blue avoids this by having a Light Reflectance Value (LRV) of 29.
LRV is basically a scale from 0 to 100 that tells you how much light a color reflects. 0 is black; 100 is pure white. At 29, Stratford Blue is firmly in the middle-to-dark camp. It’s got weight. When you put it on the wall, it doesn't just sit there; it creates a "recessive" effect, meaning the walls feel like they’re stepping back, giving a small room a sense of depth rather than making it feel like a cave.
The secret sauce is the green.
If you look at the color formula, there’s a significant amount of yellow/green pigment mixed in. This prevents the blue from feeling "chilly." In North-facing rooms—where the light is naturally bluish and cool—a standard blue paint can look depressing. Stratford Blue’s green-gray base counteracts that coolness, keeping the space feeling grounded and cozy. It’s basically the paint equivalent of a well-worn denim jacket.
Lighting: The Make-or-Break Factor
Natural light changes everything. You’ve probably heard that a thousand times, but with Stratford Blue, it’s literally the difference between a teal-leaning peacock color and a slate-grey blue.
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- In South-Facing Light: This is where the color shines. The warm, golden afternoon sun pulls out those green undertones. It looks rich, vibrant, and distinctly "historic."
- In North-Facing Light: Without that warm sun, the gray takes over. It becomes a much more somber, stormy color. It’s beautiful, but it’s definitely more "moody library" than "beachy sunroom."
- Under Artificial LEDs: Watch out here. If you use "Daylight" bulbs (5000K+), this paint can look a bit harsh. Stick to "Soft White" or "Warm White" (2700K to 3000K) to keep the color from looking like a chalkboard.
Honestly, don't trust the little paper chip. Buy a sample. Paint it on a large piece of poster board and move it around the room at 10:00 AM, 3:00 PM, and 8:00 PM. You might be surprised how much it shifts.
Why the Historical Collection Matters
Benjamin Moore launched the Historical Collection in 1976 for the U.S. Bicentennial. They basically went around to historic American landmarks and sampled colors that had stood the test of time.
Stratford Blue feels "old world" because it is. It has a timelessness that modern "color of the year" picks usually lack. Because it’s rooted in traditional architecture, it looks incredibly expensive when paired with thick white trim (like Benjamin Moore White Dove or Cloud White).
The contrast is key.
If you pair Stratford Blue with a dingy or "off" white, the blue can look a bit muddy. But put it next to a crisp, slightly warm white, and the blue pops with a crispness that feels very high-end. It’s a favorite for "Grandmillennial" styles or anyone trying to bridge the gap between "modern farmhouse" and traditional elegance.
Comparisons: Stratford Blue vs. The Rivals
People often confuse Stratford Blue with other popular Benjamin Moore shades. Let's clear that up.
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Stratford Blue vs. Van Courtland Blue (HC-145): Van Courtland is much more popular, but it's lighter and "cleaner." If Stratford Blue feels too heavy for you, Van Courtland is the logical step down. It has an LRV of about 37, so it’s noticeably brighter.
Stratford Blue vs. Philipsburg Blue (HC-159): These are siblings. Philipsburg is slightly darker and more "true blue" than Stratford. Stratford has more of that "muddy" green-gray quality that makes it feel more organic.
Stratford Blue vs. Templeton Gray (HC-171): This is where it gets tricky. Templeton Gray is actually a blue-green-gray, but it leans much harder into the gray. If you want a "blue room," go with Stratford. If you want a "gray room that happens to be blueish," go with Templeton.
Real-World Applications (Where to actually use it)
I’ve seen this color used in a dozen different ways, and it rarely misses.
Kitchen islands are a huge win for Stratford Blue. If you have a white kitchen and want a pop of color that isn't too "loud," this is the one. It hides scuff marks from shoes and barstools better than a lighter color, and it looks incredible with brass or unlacquered brass hardware. The warmth of the brass brings out the green in the paint.
Exterior doors are another sleeper hit. A Stratford Blue front door on a white or light gray house is classic. It’s welcoming without being "look at me!" bright.
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Don't ignore the ceiling either. In a small powder room, painting the walls and the ceiling Stratford Blue (a "color drench") creates a seamless, jewel-box effect that makes the room feel intentional rather than cramped. It’s a bold move, but it works because the color has enough gray to stay sophisticated.
The "Green" Misconception
Some people get their first coat on and panic. "It looks green!" they cry.
Relax. Wet paint always looks different, and the green undertones are what prevent this color from looking like a cartoon. Once you get the second coat on and bring in your furniture—especially wood tones like walnut or oak—the blue will settle down. Wood tones are the natural partner for this color. The orange-ish hues in wood are the literal opposite of blue on the color wheel, creating a natural harmony that feels balanced to the human eye.
How to Get the Best Finish
Stratford Blue is a pigment-heavy color. If you’re painting a large area, don't cheap out on the line of paint.
I’d recommend the Benjamin Moore Regal Select in a Matte or Eggshell finish.
- Matte: Best for hiding wall imperfections. It gives the color a velvety, deep look.
- Eggshell: A bit more durable. If you have kids or pets, the slight sheen makes it easier to wipe down.
Avoid high-gloss with this color unless you’re doing something very specific, like a library built-in. The dark pigments can show every single brush stroke or roller mark if the sheen is too high.
Practical Next Steps
- Check your trim. Before buying five gallons, look at your trim color. If your trim is a very cool, "blue-white," Stratford Blue might make the trim look a bit stark. It prefers warmer whites.
- Order a Samplize peel-and-stick sheet. Don't mess with messy sample cans if you can avoid it. These sheets use real paint and can be moved from wall to wall.
- Evaluate your furniture. If you have a lot of navy blue furniture, Stratford Blue might compete with it. It works best as a backdrop for neutrals, leathers, and warm wood tones.
- Consider the "Fifth Wall." If you're using this in a bedroom, think about a soft, creamy white for the ceiling to keep the room from feeling too weighted down, or go all-in with the color-drenching trend for a cozy, cocoon-like vibe.
Stratford Blue isn't a "safe" neutral, but it’s a "safe" color. It’s for the person who is tired of gray but isn't quite ready to live in a bright teal house. It’s grown-up, it’s historic, and it’s surprisingly versatile if you just give it the right light.