Choosing a paint color feels like a high-stakes gamble. You spend forty bucks on samples, slap them on the wall, and suddenly that "perfect" Benjamin Moore bluish gray looks like a cold, sterile hospital ward. Or worse, it turns into a muddy purple by sunset. It’s frustrating. Honestly, the term "bluish gray" is a bit of a trap because it covers everything from a misty morning sky to a dark, stormy ocean.
The truth is, gray isn't just gray. It's a chameleon. When you mix blue and gray, you’re playing with light reflectance values (LRV) and tricky undertones that react to everything from your LED light bulbs to the oak trees outside your window. If you've been searching for that specific, elusive vibe, you’re likely looking for a "bridge" color—something that feels grounded like a neutral but has enough soul to actually look like a color.
The Science of Why Your Gray Looks "Off"
Before we look at the specific cans of paint, we have to talk about light. This is where most DIY projects go to die. North-facing rooms are the enemies of blue-grays. Why? Because northern light is naturally cool and bluish. When you put a cool blue-gray on a wall that already gets cool light, the gray part of the formula often disappears. You’re left with a room that feels icy.
Basically, if you’re in a north-facing space, you need a bluish gray with a hidden "warm" secret—usually a tiny bit of green or a higher saturation level.
South-facing rooms are a different story. They get that warm, golden afternoon sun. This light is forgiving. It can make a muddy gray look sophisticated and a sharp blue look soft. If you’ve ever seen a photo of a room on Pinterest and thought, "I want that," check where the windows are. That’s the secret.
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The Heavy Hitters: Which Benjamin Moore Bluish Gray Is Which?
Benjamin Moore has thousands of colors, but when people say "bluish gray," they usually mean one of these five. They each have a distinct personality. You can’t just swap one for the other and expect the same result.
1. Stonington Gray (HC-170)
Stonington is the legend. It’s part of the Historical Collection, which usually means it’s refined and won’t go out of style in two years. It has a Light Reflectance Value (LRV) of about 59. For context, 0 is black and 100 is white. So, Stonington is a solid mid-tone.
It’s often called a "true gray," but that’s a lie. In a room with northern light, it will absolutely lean blue. It’s crisp. It’s professional. If you want a kitchen that looks like a high-end coastal estate without being "baby blue," this is usually the winner.
2. Boothbay Gray (HC-165)
Boothbay is deeper and much more deliberate. While Stonington "happens" to look blue sometimes, Boothbay is blue. It’s a medium-toned shade with an LRV of 43. It feels "dusty."
Imagine a New England harbor on a foggy day. That’s Boothbay. It’s sophisticated enough for a dining room or a home office where you want a bit of drama but don't want to commit to a dark navy. It pairs beautifully with warm wood tones like walnut or white oak, which helps balance out its natural coolness.
3. Mount Saint Anne (1565)
This is a personal favorite for many designers because it’s a bit of a wildcard. It has a significant amount of green in it. Because of that green, it feels warmer than a standard blue-gray.
If you’re worried about a room feeling too cold, Mount Saint Anne is your safety net. It’s got an LRV of roughly 42, making it very similar in "weight" to Boothbay Gray, but it feels more organic. It’s less "office" and more "spa."
4. Silver Lake (1598)
Silver Lake is what happens when you take a classic gray and just whisper "blue" into the bucket. It’s light (LRV 54) and very serene. It’s a great choice for bedrooms. It doesn’t demand attention. It just sits there and makes everything look expensive.
5. Brewster Gray (HC-162)
If you want to go darker, Brewster Gray is the move. It’s part of the same family as Boothbay but has more "heft." It’s a great exterior color, too. On a front door, it looks timeless. Inside, it can make a small powder room feel like a jewel box.
The Undertone Trap: Green vs. Purple
This is where things get messy. Every Benjamin Moore bluish gray has a secondary undertone.
- Green-leaning: Colors like Mount Saint Anne or Raindance (1572). These feel "teal-adjacent" and are generally more "inviting."
- Purple-leaning: These are the dangerous ones. Some grays, when hit by certain types of light (especially 3000K LED bulbs), will suddenly look lavender. You see this more in colors that are very "cool" or have a red base.
How do you avoid the purple trap? You have to test it against a "true" gray or a piece of white paper. If the sample looks slightly violet on the paper, it will look very violet on four walls.
Real Examples: Where to Use Them
Let's get practical.
If you are painting a kitchen island, go with Boothbay Gray. It’s dark enough to hide scuff marks from shoes but light enough that it doesn’t look like a black hole in the middle of the room. Pair it with a crisp white like Chantilly Lace for the cabinets. The contrast is sharp and clean.
For a nursery, Silver Mist (1619) or Bunny Gray (2124-50) are the winners. They are soft. They don’t feel "themed." You won't have to repaint the room when the kid turns six because these colors grow up well.
For a primary bedroom, look at Wickham Gray (HC-171). It’s incredibly light and airy. It basically feels like a neutral until you put a white pillow against it—then the blue-gray pop is revealed. It’s a very "high-end hotel" vibe.
Don't Forget the Trim
Your trim color will change how the bluish gray looks. Period.
If you use a warm, creamy white like White Dove (OC-17), the blue in your gray will pop more. The yellow in the cream pushes the blue out.
If you use a "true" white like Super White or Chantilly Lace, the gray will look cleaner and more modern. It reduces the "muddiness."
Most people make the mistake of using a "stock" white from the hardware store. Don't do that. Pick a Benjamin Moore white that complements your specific gray. If your bluish gray has green undertones, Simply White (OC-117) is a great choice because its subtle warmth plays nicely with the green.
Actionable Steps for Your Project
Stop looking at screens. Digital swatches are almost useless because every monitor is calibrated differently.
- Buy the peel-and-stick samples. Brands like Samplize use real Benjamin Moore paint. Stick them on every wall in the room. Why? Because the wall opposite the window will look different than the wall with the window.
- Check at 3:00 PM and 8:00 PM. Look at the color in the afternoon sun and then again at night with your lamps on. If you hate it at night, you’ll hate the room half the time you're in it.
- Compare against your flooring. If you have orange-toned oak floors, a blue-gray will look very blue (blue and orange are opposites on the color wheel). If you have gray LVP flooring, the paint might end up looking washed out.
- Paint a large area. If you’re using liquid samples, paint at least a 2x2 foot square. Two coats. Always two coats. One coat of Benjamin Moore bluish gray never shows the true depth of the pigments.
The "perfect" color is the one that feels right in your specific light. There is no such thing as a "universal" gray. But if you start with the classics—Stonington, Boothbay, or Mount Saint Anne—you’re already ahead of the curve.