You know that feeling when a restaurant just feels like home? Not in a cheesy, corporate-slogan way, but in a real "the waitress knows your name and the food tastes exactly like it did ten years ago" way. Honestly, those places are getting harder to find. Behle Street by Sheli is one of the rare ones left.
It's tucked away in Fort Mitchell, Kentucky, far from the polished, soulless corridors of the new development districts. People sometimes get confused about the name. They remember the old Behle Street Café that lived on RiverCenter Boulevard in Covington for nearly two decades. That place was a legend. But when it closed its doors in 2013, a lot of locals thought the era of that famous Greek dressing and those award-winning ribs was over.
The Comeback Story Most People Miss
Sheli Truss-Karim had other plans. She wasn’t just an employee; she was the heart of the operation for years. She worked under Tommy Behle—the namesake who passed away in 2003—and she learned the business from the ground up. When the Covington location shuttered, Sheli decided to resurrect the brand in a more intimate, manageable space.
She opened Behle Street by Sheli in December 2014.
The move to Grandview Drive in Fort Mitchell wasn't just a change of scenery. It was a pivot to what she calls a "smaller operation" focused on the essentials. She basically brought the band back together. The chef, Herb, who had been with Tommy since 1995, followed her. Most of the waitstaff did, too. You don't see that kind of loyalty in the modern restaurant industry where turnover is usually measured in weeks, not decades.
What to Actually Order (And What’s Just Hype)
If you're going there for the first time, don't overthink the menu. People go crazy for the Parmesan Crusted Grouper. It’s an 8oz cut, drizzled with a cream sauce, topped with spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes, and shrimp. It’s heavy, sure, but it’s the kind of comfort food that justifies the drive.
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Then there’s the Sheppard’s Pie. It’s the same recipe they used thirty years ago. Just seasoned ground beef, mashed potatoes, melted cheddar, and gravy. Simple. No "deconstructed" nonsense or micro-greens for the sake of an Instagram photo. Just a solid meal.
Wait, we have to talk about the Greek Salad. If you know, you know. The dressing is a local obsession. They actually sell it by the pint because people were tired of trying to replicate it at home and failing miserably. It’s got that specific tang that cuts through the feta and kalamata olives perfectly.
A Quick Peek at the Fan Favorites:
- Jack Daniel’s Chops: Two grilled center-cut pork chops with a JD glaze and baked cinnamon Granny Smith apples.
- Cajun Bayou Fettuccine: Spicy marinara, andouille sausage, shrimp, and chicken. It’s got a kick.
- Braised Short Ribs: These come with a raspberry BBQ sauce and Maytag blue cheese coleslaw. The sweet-and-funk combo is polarizing, but it’s a best-seller for a reason.
The Atmosphere: 1940s Vibes and Fire Pits
The vibe inside is sorta nostalgic. Tommy Behle loved the 1940s and 50s, and Sheli kept that spirit alive. You’ll see black-and-white photos of old movie stars on the walls. It feels like a neighborhood pub where Frank Sinatra might actually be playing on the speakers (and often is).
But the patio is where the magic happens.
They’ve done a great job making it a year-round thing. It’s fully enclosed and heated during the Kentucky winters. They’ve got overhead heaters, blankets, and fire pits. There’s almost always live acoustic music playing. It’s the kind of spot where you can actually hear the person across the table from you, which is a miracle in 2026.
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Why This Place Survives When Others Fold
The restaurant industry is brutal. The original Covington location was hit by the departure of big companies like Omnicare, which sucked the life out of the lunch crowd. But Sheli’s version in Fort Mitchell works because it isn't trying to be "everything to everyone."
It’s a family business.
Sheli is often there herself. Her husband, Curtas, is part of the support system. It’s a 30-seat interior that feels like a dining room. They do catering, they do curbside, and they do happy hour (4-6 PM, Sunday through Friday).
If you're a wine person, go on Thursday. They do half-price bottles for anything under $40. It’s not the most extensive wine cellar in Northern Kentucky, but it’s approachable. You’ve got your Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc and your 14 Hands Cabernet—staples that won't break the bank but still taste great with a steak.
Is it Perfect?
Kinda. But let's be real—it’s a small place. If it’s a Friday night and there’s a local band playing, the service might slow down a bit. It’s not a fast-food joint. If you’re in a massive rush, you might get frustrated. Also, if you’re looking for ultra-modern, keto-friendly, molecular gastronomy, you’re in the wrong place. This is a butter-and-gravy kind of establishment.
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But that’s exactly why people love it. It’s consistent. You know that if you order the meatloaf today, it’s going to taste exactly like the meatloaf you had in 1998 at the old RiverCenter spot. In a world where everything is constantly changing, there’s a massive amount of value in that kind of reliability.
Planning Your Visit
- Reservations: Seriously, call ahead. (859) 341-8888. With only about 30 seats inside, it fills up fast, especially on music nights.
- The Location: It’s at 2220 Grandview Drive. If you’re coming from Cincinnati, it’s just a quick jump across the bridge into Fort Mitchell.
- Parking: There’s a free lot and plenty of street parking, so you don’t have to deal with the Covington parking garage nightmare.
- Dietary Stuff: They do have vegetarian options like the veggie quesadilla or the Capellini Vegetarian, but the heart of the menu is definitely meat and seafood.
Next time you're debating between another generic steakhouse chain and something local, give this place a look. Grab a pint of the Greek dressing on your way out. You'll thank yourself when you're making a salad on Tuesday night and it actually tastes like something.
Behle Street by Sheli isn't just a restaurant; it's a piece of Northern Kentucky history that managed to survive the odds. Supporting a spot like this means keeping that local character alive. Plus, the chocolate opera cream cake from Bon Bonerie is usually on the dessert menu, and honestly, that’s reason enough to go by itself.
Check their Instagram before you head out to see who is playing music that night. If the weather is even remotely nice, fight for a spot on that patio. It's easily one of the best outdoor dining setups in the area.
When you get there, ask for the "Steak O" if you're feeling fancy. It’s a 8oz filet topped with a crab cake and bearnaise sauce. It’s the ultimate tribute to the old-school dining era that Tommy and Sheli have worked so hard to preserve.
Plan your trip for a Thursday evening to take advantage of the wine deals, and make sure you leave room for a "Behle Wheel"—vanilla ice cream sandwiched between two chocolate chip cookies. It's the simple things that keep this place in business.