You’ve seen it on the sidelines of every Alabama game. That black and white checkered pattern is practically the unofficial state flag of Tuscaloosa. Honestly, if you walk onto the University of Alabama campus without something houndstooth on your person, you're the odd one out.
It’s the Bear Bryant houndstooth hat.
Most people think Paul "Bear" Bryant stepped off the bus in 1958 wearing that iconic fedora. They imagine him winning six national championships with that specific pattern glued to his head.
But that’s not really how it happened.
The truth is a little messier, involves a gift from a New York Jets owner, and features a surprising amount of plain old plaid.
The Myth of the Day One Hat
Bear Bryant didn't start his career in houndstooth. For a huge chunk of his time at Alabama, he actually wore a variety of hats. Most were simple, solid-colored fedoras or basic plaid patterns.
If you look at the grainy footage from the early 1960s, you won’t see the "tooth." You’ll see a man in a dark suit and a very standard hat.
So where did it come from?
The most widely accepted story—the one backed by the Bryant Museum—is that the first real houndstooth hat was a gift. It came from Sonny Werblin, who was the owner of the New York Jets at the time.
Werblin gave it to Bryant in the mid-1960s. Some historians point to 1965 or 1966 as the turning point. It wasn't an immediate "signature" move, either. Bryant just liked the hat. It was comfortable. It looked sharp.
He started wearing it more often during the 1970s. That’s the era when the cameras started getting better and the "Bear" legend was reaching its peak. Because he wore it during some of his most televised, high-stakes games later in life, that’s the image that stuck.
Is it Actually Houndstooth?
Here is the part that drives fashion purists and Auburn fans crazy.
A lot of the hats Bryant wore weren’t actually houndstooth. They were checkered or plaid.
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True houndstooth is a very specific "broken" check pattern. It looks like a jagged four-pointed shape—literally like the tooth of a hound.
If you look closely at the hat Bryant is wearing on the cover of Sports Illustrated in 1966, it’s a tiny, tight houndstooth. But in other famous photos, he’s wearing a much larger, simpler plaid.
To the average fan in the stands at Legion Field, it didn't matter. They saw the black and white pattern and called it houndstooth. Over time, the name just took over the reality.
The Shug Jordan Controversy
If you want to start a fight in a bar in Birmingham, bring up Ralph "Shug" Jordan.
Jordan was the legendary coach at Auburn, Alabama's arch-rival. There is a very strong case to be made—and plenty of photographic evidence—that Shug Jordan was wearing houndstooth hats on the sidelines years before Bryant ever touched one.
In the 1969 Iron Bowl, Jordan famously threw his hat into the stands after a big win. That hat? Pure houndstooth.
Auburn fans love to point this out. They’ll tell you that Alabama basically "stole" the look and marketed it better.
It’s kinda funny when you think about it. One of the most famous symbols of Alabama football might have actually been an Auburn trend first. But Bryant was such a massive figure that he simply eclipsed everyone else. He became the sun that the entire southern football universe revolved around.
The Trademark Wars
You’d think a pattern that’s been around since the 1800s in Scotland wouldn't be something you could own.
You’d be wrong.
For years, the University of Alabama and the Bryant family fought a massive legal battle over who gets to sell "Bear Bryant" style gear. There was a famous case involving a company called Houndstooth Mafia.
The University argued that because the pattern was so closely associated with Bryant, they should have control over it.
The courts eventually had to step in. It got complicated. Basically, the University of Alabama doesn't "own" the houndstooth pattern itself—that would be like trying to own the color red. But they do own the specific combination of the pattern with Bryant’s name, likeness, and the Alabama "A."
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Why the Hat Still Matters
It’s been over 40 years since Coach Bryant passed away.
Most students currently at Alabama weren't even born when he was alive. Their parents barely remember him coaching.
Yet, the hat is everywhere.
- You see it on car magnets.
- It’s on the ribbon of every "Bama Mom" wreath.
- Current coaches have to deal with the shadow of the hat every single day.
It’s become more than just a piece of clothing. It’s a shorthand for excellence. It represents an era where Alabama was the undisputed king of the sport.
When Nick Saban arrived, people wondered if he’d wear a hat. He didn't. He knew he couldn't compete with the ghost. Instead, he created his own "uniform" (the straw hat at practice), but he always respected the houndstooth.
Where is the Original?
If you want to see the real deal, you have to go to the Paul W. Bryant Museum in Tuscaloosa.
They have several of his hats on display. You can see the wear and tear. You can see the manufacturer labels—often from Levine Hat Co. or Miller Hats.
Sometimes these hats pop up at high-end sports auctions. In 2021, one of Bryant's game-worn hats sold for tens of thousands of dollars. People aren't just buying a fedora; they’re buying a piece of the "Process" before the Process was even a thing.
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Actionable Tips for the Modern Fan
If you're looking to rock the look without looking like you're wearing a costume, here’s the move.
Don't go full houndstooth. Unless it’s a Saturday in the fall, wearing a full houndstooth suit is a lot. It’s "too much" territory.
Mix the patterns. The Bear himself usually paired the hat with a solid crimson blazer or a simple suit. The hat was the statement.
Check the scale. Smaller "micro-houndstooth" patterns look more modern and professional. The giant, loud checks are better suited for stadium seating than a board room.
Know the history. When someone asks you about your hat, don't just say "It's a Bama thing." Tell them about Sonny Werblin. Tell them about the 1970s transition.
The Bear Bryant houndstooth hat isn't just a trend. It’s a legacy that survived the man who wore it. It’s proof that in college football, what you wear on the sidelines can be just as immortal as the plays you call on the field.
To get the most out of this iconic look, look for vintage-style wool blends rather than cheap synthetic versions. The weight of the fabric makes a huge difference in how the hat sits on your head—and how much it actually looks like the one the Bear wore during those cold nights at Legion Field.