The iPhone X was a total pivot for Apple. Remember that notch? People lost their minds. It’s been years since it first hit shelves, and honestly, the hardware still feels premium in your hand—stainless steel and glass tend to age better than the plastic stuff we see on mid-range phones today. But there is a massive problem. The lithium-ion chemistry inside that chassis is basically on life support for most users by now. If you're still rocking an original unit, your battery replacement iPhone X journey is likely overdue, mostly because these cells were only ever rated for about 500 full charge cycles.
After those 500 cycles, Apple says the capacity drops to around 80%. That sounds fine on paper. It isn't. In reality, once you hit that "Service" warning in your settings, the phone starts throttling. It gets sluggish. You're trying to open Instagram and the whole UI stutters because the battery can't provide the peak voltage the A11 Bionic chip is screaming for.
Why your iPhone X feels like it’s dying (It’s not just the software)
Most people assume their phone is "old" because the apps are getting heavier. While that's partially true—iOS 16 and subsequent patches definitely demand more resources—the real culprit is often "Peak Performance Capability." Check your settings. If it says your battery is "degraded," your phone is literally slowing itself down so it doesn't just shut off in the middle of a phone call.
Lithium-ion batteries are consumable. They hate heat. They hate being at 100% all the time. If you’ve been using a fast charger or leaving it on a wireless pad overnight for years, the chemical aging has likely turned your internal battery into a glorified paperweight.
I’ve seen iPhones where the battery actually starts to swell. This is dangerous. It starts by pushing against the OLED screen from the inside. If you notice a weird white glow on the edges of your display or the screen seems to be lifting away from the frame, stop charging it immediately. That’s a "spicy pillow" situation. It’s a fire hazard and it’ll snap your expensive screen connectors before you even realize what's happening.
The DIY route vs. Apple Support: The price of peace of mind
You have three real choices here. You can go to Apple, hit up a local "we-fix-it" shop, or try to be a hero with a suction cup and a pentalobe screwdriver.
Apple Authorized Service
Going to Apple is the most expensive path, but it's the only one that guarantees a genuine OEM part. They charge a flat fee—usually around $89 these days—but you get a warranty. Plus, they maintain the water resistance. When Apple opens an iPhone X, they replace the adhesive gasket that seals the screen to the frame. Most cheap shops skip this step. If they skip it, your phone is no longer IP67 rated. One rainstorm and it’s over.
The Third-Party Gamble
Local shops are cheaper. You can probably get a battery replacement iPhone X for $50 or $60. But here is the catch: the "Battery Health" menu might stop working. Apple uses a serialized chip on the battery's BMS (Battery Management System). If the phone doesn't recognize the serial number, it’ll show an "Important Battery Message" saying it can't verify the part. It’s annoying. It doesn't mean the battery is bad, but it kills your resale value.
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Doing it yourself
If you’re brave, sites like iFixit sell kits. Honestly? The iPhone X is a nightmare to open. The screen is held down by incredibly strong adhesive. You need a heat gun or a specialized heat pad to soften it. One slip of the plastic pick and you slice the Face ID cable. If you break that cable, Face ID is gone forever. No local shop can fix it because it’s cryptographically paired to your logic board.
What the "Battery Health" percentage actually tells you
Don't obsess over 91% vs 89%. It’s an estimate. The phone measures voltage dips under load to guess the health. If you see your phone jumping from 40% to 10% in ten minutes, the percentage doesn't matter—the internal resistance is too high.
There are "high capacity" batteries sold on Amazon and eBay claiming 3500mAh or more. Stay away. The physical size of the battery compartment in the iPhone X hasn't changed. To get more capacity into the same footprint, manufacturers have to thin out the internal separators. This makes the battery much more prone to internal shorts. Stick to standard capacities that match the original 2716mAh spec.
Performance gains after the swap
It’s like getting a new phone. Truly.
Once you swap the cell, the OS removes the power management throttles. The "stutter" when swiping between screens usually vanishes. Apps launch faster. The phone stays cooler because a struggling battery generates immense heat during the charging cycle.
Wait. You should also check your storage. If your 64GB iPhone X is at 63GB used, a new battery won't fix the lag. SSDs need "wear leveling" room to breathe. But if you have space and it’s still slow? It’s the battery.
The environmental and financial logic
We live in a world that wants you to upgrade every 24 months. But the iPhone X was ahead of its time. It has an OLED screen that still looks better than many new LCD phones. It has gesture navigation that basically hasn't changed in years.
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Spending $90 to fix a phone you already own is better than spending $800+ on a new one, especially if you aren't a power user. It keeps e-waste out of landfills. If the screen isn't cracked and the back glass is clean, a new battery gives you another 2 or 3 years of life. That’s a win.
Just keep in mind that the iPhone X no longer receives the latest iOS major updates as of 2023/2024. You’ll get security patches for a while, but you won't get the flashy new features. For most people who just want a working phone for WhatsApp, TikTok, and Safari, that literally doesn't matter.
Identifying a "Fake" battery before you buy
If you’re buying a battery online to do the swap yourself, look at the printing. Real OEM batteries or high-quality replacements from brands like NuPower or Ampsentrix have clean, sharp text.
Check the date of manufacture. Lithium batteries degrade even sitting on a shelf. If the "new" battery was made in 2019, it’s already lost capacity through chemical stagnation. You want a cell manufactured within the last 12 months.
Also, watch out for the ribbon cable. It should be flexible but sturdy. Cheap knockoffs use thin copper that snaps if you bend it slightly wrong during installation.
Necessary tools for the job
If you’ve decided to DIY it, don't use a kitchen knife. Seriously.
- P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver: For those two annoying screws at the bottom.
- Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver: Apple started using these inside the X. You cannot use a Phillips head.
- Suction Handle: To pull the screen up without cracking it.
- 90% Isopropyl Alcohol: To dissolve the battery adhesive tabs. They will break. They always break. A little alcohol helps them slide out.
- Replacement Adhesive: Don't just close the phone up without it. It’ll rattle.
Step-by-step reality check
First, back up your data. iCloud or iTunes, doesn't matter, just do it.
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Turn the phone off. If the screen is cracked, put packing tape over it so the suction cup can actually stick. Heat the edges. Slowly—slowly—lift the display. The iPhone X opens to the side, like a book. If you pull it straight up, you’ll rip the display cables.
Disconnect the battery first. This is the golden rule of phone repair. If you drop a screw on the motherboard while the battery is connected, you can short out the backlight circuit. Then you have a dead phone and a very expensive paperweight.
The "Pull Tabs" under the battery are the hardest part. You have to pull them flat and slow. If they snap, don't pry the battery with a metal tool. If you puncture the battery with a metal screwdriver, it will vent flames. Use a plastic card and a bit of alcohol to work it loose.
Making the most of your new battery
Once the battery replacement iPhone X is finished, calibrate it. Charge it to 100% and keep it on the charger for at least two more hours. Then, use it until the phone dies completely and shuts off. Charge it back to 100% uninterrupted. This helps the logic board "learn" the new capacity of the cell.
Avoid "Fast Charging" every single day if you can. It generates heat, and heat is the silent killer of these small cells. If you're at your desk, a slow 5W brick is actually better for the longevity of the chemical health than a 20W rapid charger.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your health: Go to Settings > Battery > Battery Health. If it’s below 80%, or if you see a "Service" message, it's time.
- Decide on a budget: If the phone is in pristine condition, pay Apple for the $89 official swap to keep the warranty and water resistance.
- Check for swelling: Look at the screen from the side. If there’s any curve or lift, do not wait. Get it out of your house or into a shop immediately.
- Audit your storage: Ensure you have at least 5-10GB of free space so the new battery can actually deliver peak performance without software bottlenecks.
- Clean your port: While you're at it, use a wooden toothpick to gently scrape lint out of the lightning port. Often, people think their battery is bad because it won't charge, but it's just a pocket-lint-clogged port.
The iPhone X is a classic. It’s the phone that defined the modern era of smartphones. Giving it a fresh battery isn't just a repair; it’s a way to keep a perfectly functional, high-end piece of tech out of the trash for a few more years. Just be realistic about your technical skills before you start digging around inside with a screwdriver.