You’ve just spent eleven hours in a pressurized metal tube. Your knees ache. Your eyes feel like someone rubbed them with sandpaper. All you want is a cold Lion lager and the smell of the Indian Ocean. But first, you have to survive Bandaranaike International Airport.
Most people call it CMB. Some call it Katunayake. Locally, it’s just "the airport."
Located about 30 kilometers north of the chaotic, buzzing heart of Colombo, this place is a trip. Literally. It isn't the shiny, futuristic glass forest of Singapore’s Changi or the sterile, silent corridors of Doha. It’s loud. It’s a bit dated in spots. It smells faintly of spices and floor wax. And honestly? It’s one of the most fascinating gateways in South Asia if you know how to navigate the quirks.
The Duty Free Appliance Obsession
Walk into the arrivals hall at Bandaranaike International Airport and you’ll see something that makes zero sense to the average Western tourist. While most airports sell giant Toblerones and overpriced perfume, CMB sells washing machines.
I’m serious.
You’ll see rows of refrigerators, gas cookers, and 50-inch LED televisions right next to the baggage carousels. It looks like a Best Buy exploded in the middle of customs. This isn't for you. It’s for the hundreds of thousands of Sri Lankan migrant workers returning from the Middle East. Because of specific tax exemptions, it’s cheaper for them to buy a fridge at the airport and lug it home to their village than to buy it at a retail store in town.
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It’s the first real "Welcome to Sri Lanka" moment. It’s practical, slightly chaotic, and deeply rooted in the local economy. If you’re standing there wondering why a guy is duct-taping a microwave to a suitcase, now you know.
Getting Into the City Without Losing Your Mind
Here is where most people mess up. You walk out of those sliding doors, the humidity hits you like a wet blanket, and twenty guys start shouting "Taxi! Colombo! Best price!"
Don’t just jump in the first car.
Bandaranaike International Airport is linked to Colombo by the E03 Expressway. It’s a smooth, fast toll road. If your driver says they aren't taking the highway because of "traffic," they are likely trying to save on the toll or they don't have the right permit. Insist on the highway. It turns a miserable 90-minute crawl through suburban congestion into a 30-minute breeze.
You have three real options:
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- Pick Me or Uber: Sri Lanka has a local ride-sharing app called Pick Me. Download it before you land. It’s usually cheaper than Uber and the drivers are everywhere. There’s a designated pickup point outside the terminal. It saves you the headache of haggling while jet-lagged.
- The Official Counter: Inside the arrivals lobby, there are fixed-rate taxi counters. They are slightly more expensive but reliable. You pay at the desk, get a voucher, and no money changes hands with the driver except for maybe a tip.
- The Bus: If you’re on a shoestring, the 187 bus runs to Colombo Fort. It’s cheap. It’s also an experience. Expect loud music, flashing LED lights inside the bus, and very little room for your oversized backpack.
The Visa and Logistics Dance
Let’s talk about the ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization). As of 2024 and heading into 2025, the system has seen some back-and-forth changes. Always, and I mean always, check the official government portal (eta.gov.lk) before you fly.
If you didn’t do it online, there is a "Visa on Arrival" counter. It’s tucked away to the left before you hit the main immigration lines. It usually costs a bit more than the online version. Pro tip: bring USD or Euro in cash. Sometimes their card machines decide to take a nap, and the last thing you want is to be stuck in a "no man's land" between the plane and the ATM.
Immigration officers at Bandaranaike International Airport are generally efficient, but they don't rush. Don't expect a smile. Just hand over your passport and your arrival card (which you should have filled out on the plane to save five minutes of leaning against a wall).
Staying Connected: The SIM Card Scramble
Once you clear customs and pass the "fridge forest," you’ll see the telecom stalls. Dialog and Mobitel are the big players.
Honestly, just get a Dialog SIM. Their coverage in the Hill Country and down south is generally superior. They have "Tourist Plans" that cost about 10 to 20 USD and give you more data than you could possibly use in two weeks. They’ll swap the SIM for you right there. It takes two minutes. Do not leave the airport without doing this; finding a nano-SIM in a remote village in Ella is a nightmare you don't need.
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The Departure Ritual: Give Yourself Time
Leaving Sri Lanka is a bit more intense than arriving. Bandaranaike International Airport has a multi-layered security process. You’ll have your bags scanned before you even enter the terminal building. Then you’ll check in. Then there’s another security check before the gates.
Because of this, the "be there 3 hours early" rule isn't just a suggestion here. It’s a requirement.
The Silk Route Lounge is an option if you have the right credit card or want to pay for an upgrade. It’s tucked away and offers a bit of sanity away from the crowded boarding areas. If you're stuck in the main terminal, the food options are... okay. You’ll find the usual suspects like Burger King, but if you want one last authentic hoppers or kottu, you’re better off eating before you get to Katunayake.
Hidden Facts and Local Secrets
- The Name: It’s named after S.W.R.D. Bandaranaike, a former Prime Minister. You’ll see his statue outside.
- The Second Airport: Sri Lanka has another international airport, Mattala Rajapaksa (HRI), in the south. Unless you are on a very specific charter flight, you probably won't use it. It’s famous for being one of the "emptiest airports in the world." Stick to CMB.
- Tea Shopping: If you forgot to buy souvenirs, the Dilmah and Basilur shops in departures are actually decent. The prices are higher than a local supermarket, but the packaging is gift-ready and the quality is top-tier.
- Smoking Areas: They are few and far between. There’s a small, glass-walled room upstairs that usually looks like a scene from a 1970s noir film.
Navigating the Physical Space
The terminal is essentially one long corridor. If you are flying out, the gates are numbered, but the distances can be deceiving. Some gates require a bus transfer to the plane sitting on the tarmac.
If you have mobility issues, request a wheelchair during booking. The walk from the far gates to immigration can be a trek, and the elevators are sometimes out of service for "maintenance."
Actionable Steps for Your Arrival
To make your transition through Bandaranaike International Airport as smooth as possible, follow this exact sequence:
- Pre-book your ETA: Do it at least 72 hours before departure. Print a physical copy. Yes, they usually see it on their screen, but physical paper is king in Sri Lankan bureaucracy.
- Withdraw LKR (Rupees) inside: There are several Bank of Ceylon and Sampath Bank ATMs in the arrivals hall. Withdraw enough for your first few days. Many places in Sri Lanka are still cash-heavy.
- Buy the Dialog SIM: Don't think about it, just do it. The 20GB or 50GB tourist packs are the best value.
- Use the Highway: Tell your driver "Expressway" (E03). Pay the 300-600 LKR toll yourself if they ask; it’s worth every cent to avoid the stop-start traffic of the old road.
- Check the Flight Board: If you are connecting to a domestic "Cinnamon Air" flight (the sea planes), these often depart from a different side of the airfield. Check your ticket carefully.
Bandaranaike International Airport is the gateway to the teardrop island. It’s a place of transition—where the organized chaos of the world meets the slower, tropical pace of Sri Lanka. Take a breath, ignore the appliance sales, and get yourself to the coast. The real magic starts once you leave the terminal.