It was 2017. Demna Gvasalia, the creative mind at Balenciaga, decided to drop a sneaker that looked like three different shoes glued together in a high-speed collision. People laughed. Seriously, the internet was relentless. They called them "dad shoes" but not in the cool, vintage way—more in the "my father is mowing the lawn in 1994" way. Yet, fast forward a few years, and Balenciaga shoes Triple S became the definitive silhouette of a generation. They didn't just sell; they shifted the entire axis of luxury footwear.
If you’ve ever held one, you know the weight is the first thing that hits you. These aren't your typical lightweight runners. They are heavy. Like, nearly two pounds per shoe heavy.
Why? Because the "Triple S" name isn't just a marketing gimmick. It literally stands for "Triple Sole." Demna took molds from running, basketball, and track shoes and stacked them. The result was a chunky, pre-distressed monster that retailed for nearly $900. It felt like a social experiment. How much could a brand push the boundaries of "ugly" before the public snapped? Turns out, the limit doesn't exist.
The Design Philosophy That Broke the Internet
Luxury used to mean sleek. It meant Italian leather loafers or slim-profile trainers that looked expensive from a mile away. Then came the Balenciaga shoes Triple S, and suddenly, looking like you were wearing bricks was the ultimate flex.
The aesthetic is deeply rooted in "normcore" and "uprooted" fashion. By taking something mundane—the bulky orthopedic shoe—and slapping a Balenciaga logo on the toe, the brand turned the concept of status on its head. It’s ironic fashion. You're wearing something that looks worn out, dirty (the "dirty" colorways were a huge controversy), and structurally excessive.
Honestly, the construction is pretty fascinating if you look past the bulk. You have nubuck and mesh overlays that give it that complex, layered vibe. The size is embroidered right on the toe in a bold, sans-serif font. It’s a weirdly practical detail that became a signature. You don't have to check the tongue to see what size your friend is wearing; it’s right there for the world to see.
Why the "Ugly Sneaker" Trend Actually Stuck
Most trends die in six months. The Triple S stayed relevant for years. Experts in consumer psychology, like those often cited in Business of Fashion, suggest that the shoe succeeded because it provided a silhouette that worked perfectly with the oversized clothing trend. If you're wearing massive hoodies and wide-leg trousers, a slim sneaker makes your feet look like toothpicks. You need a base. The Triple S provided that anchor.
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It’s about proportions.
The sneaker basically acted as a pedestal. It added two inches of height without the discomfort of a heel. For the street-style crowd, that was a game-changer.
Real Talk: Are They Actually Comfortable?
This is where things get polarizing. If you talk to a marathon runner, they’ll tell you these are a nightmare. They aren't for running. Please, don't try to go for a jog in these. You’ll probably twist an ankle.
But for walking around Soho or sitting front row at a show? They’re surprisingly stable. The sheer width of the triple-stacked sole means you have a massive surface area hitting the ground. You aren't going to wobble. However, the weight is a real factor. If you aren't used to heavy footwear, your calves are going to feel it by the end of the day. It’s a workout.
The padding inside is thick. It hugs the foot. But because of the mesh panels, they actually breathe better than a full leather boot would. Just don't expect them to feel like a pair of Yeezy 350s or Nike Flyknits. They are structural. They are armor.
The Manufacturing Shift Controversy
There was a bit of a scandal back in 2018. Originally, the Balenciaga shoes Triple S were made in Italy. It was a point of pride for many buyers paying that $900+ price tag. Then, eagle-eyed fans noticed the "Made in Italy" stamp disappeared and was replaced by "Made in China."
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People lost their minds.
Balenciaga’s response was basically that the factory in China had the specialized capabilities to produce such a complex, heavy shoe. Whether you believe that or if it was just a cost-saving move is up to you. But interestingly, it didn't slow down sales. It proved that for most Balenciaga fans, the "where" mattered less than the "who." The brand equity was strong enough to survive the transition.
How to Spot Fakes (Because the Market is Flooded)
Because the Triple S became the "it" shoe, the replica market went into overdrive. Some of the fakes are terrifyingly good. If you're buying second-hand on sites like Grailed or Depop, you have to be careful.
- The Weight. This is the biggest giveaway. Replicas are almost always lighter because using high-density rubber for three layers is expensive. If the shoe feels "normal" weight, it's fake.
- The Embroidery. On authentic pairs, the "BALENCIAGA" on the side is clean. The letters don't have "bridge" threads connecting them. On many fakes, the stitching is sloppy.
- The Toe Box Size. Look at that number on the toe. It should be centered and the stitching should be deep.
- The Box and Dust Bag. Genuine pairs come with a heavy-duty box and a very specific grey dust bag.
It's sorta crazy how much effort goes into verifying a shoe that was designed to look "distressed" in the first place, right?
The Legacy of the Chunky Sole
We can't talk about Balenciaga shoes Triple S without acknowledging what they did to the rest of the industry. Look at the Gucci Flashtrek. Look at the Louis Vuitton Archlight. Even Nike and Adidas started pumping out "chunky" variations of their classic models.
Demna didn't just design a shoe; he designed a decade of footwear.
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The Triple S challenged the idea that luxury had to be delicate. It embraced the "ugly-cool." It tapped into a specific kind of nostalgia for the 90s while looking like something out of a sci-fi movie. It’s a polarizing piece of art that you just happen to wear on your feet.
Practical Advice for Potential Buyers
If you’re thinking about dropping the cash on a pair today, here is the reality. They run large. Most people recommend sizing down at least one full size. If you’re a 43, get a 42. If you have narrow feet, you might even need to go down two sizes.
Also, consider the colorway carefully. The "Clear Sole" versions are a bit lighter and look a bit more modern, but the OG "Bred" or "White/Blue/Red" colorways are the ones that hold their value best in the long run.
What to Do Next
If you're ready to dive into the world of high-fashion sneakers, don't just buy the first pair you see on a resale site.
- Visit a boutique first. You need to feel the weight in person. Put them on. Walk around. See if you can actually handle the "clunk" factor.
- Check the archives. Balenciaga releases new iterations every season. Sometimes the older, "non-clear sole" versions go for significantly less on reputable sites like The RealReal or StockX.
- Style them right. These aren't skinny jean shoes. They look best with wide-leg denim, cargo pants, or even surprisingly, tailored trousers that break right at the top of the shoe.
The Triple S isn't just a shoe; it’s a statement that you don't care about traditional "good taste." And in the fashion world, that’s often the loudest statement you can make.
Stay away from the obvious "super-fake" websites offering them for $150. If the price is too good to be true, you're buying a cheap piece of plastic that will hurt your feet. Stick to authorized retailers like SSENSE, Farfetch, or the official Balenciaga site to ensure you’re getting the real deal with the proper construction. Evaluate your current wardrobe to see if you have the "volume" to support such a massive shoe; otherwise, they might end up sitting in your closet as an expensive paperweight. Check your local luxury consignment shops for "floor models" which often carry a steep discount but have only been worn once or twice for photoshoots.