Honestly, if you go to Copenhagen and only visit Tivoli Gardens, you're basically doing Denmark on easy mode. Don't get me wrong, Tivoli is stunning. It’s polished, it’s got the flower beds, and it’s right across from the train station. But about 10 kilometers north, tucked inside a massive royal deer forest, sits Bakken Denmark—officially known as Dyrehavsbakken—and it is a completely different beast.
It is the oldest amusement park in the world. We’re talking 1583. To put that in perspective, when this place opened, Shakespeare was still a young man and the telescope hadn't even been invented yet. But here is the thing: Bakken doesn't feel like a museum. It feels like a rowdy, slightly chaotic, and wonderfully unpretentious neighborhood carnival that just happened to never close.
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The 400-Year-Old Mistake People Make
Most people assume that because it’s "historic," it’s going to be a stiff, educational experience. It’s not. Bakken was born because a woman named Kirsten Piil discovered a natural spring in the forest. Back then, the water in central Copenhagen was essentially poisonous, so people flocked to the woods for a clean drink. Where there are crowds, there are entertainers. Fast forward four centuries, and that spring-side gathering has mutated into a park with 32 rides and over 70 restaurants.
The biggest "culture shock" for first-timers? The entrance fee. Or rather, the lack of one. Unlike almost every other major theme park on the planet, Bakken is free to enter. You just walk in.
This creates a vibe that you won't find at Disney or even Tivoli. Because it's free, locals use it like a public park. You’ll see groups of friends just heading there for a beer or a massive ice cream, with no intention of ever touching a roller coaster. It’s louder and a bit more "low-brow" than its fancy cousin in the city center, and that’s exactly why the Danes love it.
The Wooden Beast: Rutschebanen
You cannot talk about Bakken without talking about Rutschebanen. This wooden roller coaster has been standing since 1932. Until 2010, it actually had a "brakeman" who sat on every train, manually pulling a lever to stop the thing from flying off the tracks.
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The brakemen are gone now, replaced by an automated system for safety, but the ride still feels... alive. It creaks. It rattles. It smells like old timber and grease. It isn't the tallest or the fastest ride you’ll ever go on, but there is a specific kind of terror that comes from a 90-year-old structure vibrating beneath your seat while you're surrounded by the canopy of the Dyrehaven forest.
Beyond the Wood
If you’re a thrill-seeker, the park has modernized quite a bit. You’ve got:
- Tårngyset: A drop tower that gives you a split-second view of the Öresund strait before dropping you.
- Mine Train Ulven: A coaster that feels like it’s trying to clip the branches of the surrounding trees.
- The Ghost Train: Perfectly kitschy. It’s the kind of dark ride that hasn't changed its scares in decades, and it works because of that nostalgia.
The Strange Magic of Pjerrot
Every day, a man in white face paint and a baggy suit stands in front of a small green house and performs for a crowd of captivated kids. This is Pjerrot, the park’s resident clown.
This isn't some modern marketing mascot. The character of Pjerrot has been a fixture at Bakken since 1800. Think about that. Generation after generation of Danish children have stood in that exact spot to watch the same character perform magic tricks and tell stories. It’s one of those rare threads of continuity that makes the park feel like it exists outside of normal time.
Eating Like a Local (Avoid the "Tourist" Bites)
Bakken is a food desert in the best possible way. There are dozens of places to eat, but they range from "fairground junk" to legitimate seated dining.
If you want the real experience, look for Bakkens Hvile. It’s a singing-girl cabaret that has been running since 1877. It’s loud, it’s in Danish, and the humor is... let's say "classic." Even if you don't understand a word, the atmosphere of a room full of Danes singing along to 19th-century bawdy tunes while drinking cold pilsners is worth the price of admission alone.
For a proper meal, Bøgely is a solid choice for traditional Danish food. If you want something a bit more tucked away, Kilden i skoven is just outside the park gates and offers a slightly more "refined" escape from the noise.
Getting There Without Losing Your Mind
Bakken is in Klampenborg. Do not try to walk there from central Copenhagen unless you’re training for a marathon.
The move is the S-train (Line C). It’s a 20-minute ride from the city center to Klampenborg Station. When you get off, don't look for a shuttle bus. You walk. It’s about a 10-minute stroll through the Dyrehaven (The Deer Park). This forest is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you are almost guaranteed to see herds of wild deer just chilling a few hundred feet from the roller coasters.
The Price Reality Check
Entry is free, but the rides aren't. If you’re planning on doing more than three rides, you need the Turbånd (wristband). In 2026, these usually run around 329 DKK.
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If you’re just there for the vibes, you can buy a Fun Card, which is basically a points-based card you can share with a friend. It’s perfect if you just want to do the wooden coaster once and then spend the rest of your money on smørrebrød and beer.
Why It Still Matters
In a world of hyper-sanitized, corporate-owned theme parks, Bakken is an anomaly. It’s owned by a co-op of "tent owners"—individual business owners who each run their own stall or ride. This is why the park feels so patchwork and authentic. One stall might be selling cutting-edge VR experiences, while the one next to it is a "test your strength" game that looks like it hasn't been painted since the 70s.
It’s messy. It’s loud. It’s beautiful.
Quick Tips for your 2026 Visit:
- Go Late: The park is best on a summer evening. The lights in the trees and the sunset over the forest are incredible.
- Check the Season: Bakken isn't open year-round. They usually open in late March and close in September, with special openings for the fall break and Christmas.
- Bring a Jacket: Even in July, the forest gets chilly once the sun goes down.
- The "Deer" Factor: Remember that the forest is a protected area. Keep your distance from the deer, especially during the rutting season in autumn.
To actually experience Bakken, you have to lean into the chaos. Skip the fancy restaurants in the city for one night. Take the train, walk through the woods, grab a giant waffle with guf (strawberry meringue topping), and go ride a 90-year-old coaster. It’s the most Danish thing you can do.
Actionable Next Steps:
Check the current operating hours on the official Bakken website before you head out, as weekday hours can vary wildly during the shoulder seasons. If you're traveling with a group, download the Rejseplanen app to coordinate your S-train journey from Copenhagen Central; a "Small Group" ticket can often save you 20% on the fare compared to individual tickets. Keep an eye out for the "Pjerrot" performance times posted near the entrance if you're bringing kids—missing the "magic" at the green house is a rookie mistake.