Walk into 110 Waverly Place and the first thing you notice isn't the smell of garlic. It’s the energy. That specific, high-octane buzz that only exists in a dining room that has survived two decades of New York City’s brutal restaurant churn. Babbo Ristorante New York isn't just a place to get a plate of pasta; it’s a Greenwich Village institution that somehow manages to feel both like a relic of a different era and a necessary part of the current scene.
Honestly, the red sauce joints in Little Italy have their charm, but Babbo is a different beast entirely. It opened in 1998. Think about that for a second. In restaurant years, that’s basically the Mesozoic era. Yet, people still scramble for reservations at 5:30 PM on a Tuesday.
The Mario Batali Shadow and the Rebirth
It’s impossible to talk about Babbo Ristorante New York without addressing the elephant in the room. For years, the restaurant was synonymous with Mario Batali. When the misconduct allegations surfaced in 2017, many people—critics and locals alike—assumed the place was toast. It wasn't. Joe Bastianich and the remaining management team had to pull off a massive pivot. They didn't just change the leadership; they had to change the soul of the house while keeping the Beef Cheek Ravioli exactly the same.
They succeeded.
Why? Because the kitchen culture at Babbo was always bigger than one person. It’s a machine. The restaurant transitioned away from its original association and leaned heavily into the expertise of its long-term staff. It was a business masterclass in brand survival. They focused on the "Ristorante" and less on the "Celebrity."
What You’re Actually Eating (And What to Skip)
Let’s get real about the menu. Everyone tells you to order the pasta. They’re right. But they’re also kinda wrong if they don't tell you which ones.
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The Beef Cheek Ravioli with crushed squab liver and black truffles is the heavy hitter. It’s rich. It’s decadent. It’s also a lot for one person to handle if you’re planning on eating an entree. If you’re at Babbo Ristorante New York for the first time, you have to try it, but maybe share it.
On the other hand, the Mint Love Letters with spicy merguez and pea purée is the sleeper hit. It’s lighter, brighter, and shows off the kitchen's ability to balance heat with herbaceous notes.
- The Wine List: It’s massive. Seriously, it’s a tome. Babbo has one of the most comprehensive Italian wine programs in the country. If you don't know your Barolo from your Brunello, just ask the sommelier. They aren't snobby about it, which is refreshing for a place with a Michelin history.
- The Main Courses: People sleep on the Secondi. The Grilled Whole Branzino is consistently perfect, but honestly, if you're coming here, you're coming for the starch.
- The Olive Oil Cake: This is the dessert that launched a thousand imitations. It’s moist, savory, and served with blood orange. Don't skip it. Just don't.
The Atmosphere: Why the Upstairs is Better
Babbo is split into two distinct vibes. The downstairs bar area is loud, cramped, and feels like the center of the universe. It’s where you go if you want to see and be seen.
But the upstairs? That’s where the magic happens. It’s a converted carriage house, and the skylight in the center of the room lets in this gorgeous, diffused West Village light during early dinners. It feels intimate. You can actually hear your partner talk about their day without shouting over a Rolling Stones track playing at 80 decibels.
That’s another thing—the music. Babbo was famous (or infamous) for playing loud rock music in a fine-dining setting. It was revolutionary in the late 90s. Now, it just feels like home. It breaks the tension of the white tablecloths.
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Is it Overrated?
The short answer: No.
The long answer: It depends on what you’re looking for. If you want "New Nordic" tweezers-and-foam cooking, go elsewhere. Babbo Ristorante New York is about bold, aggressive Italian flavors. It’s about fat and salt and acid. It’s a very "maximalist" style of cooking.
Some critics argue that the menu hasn't evolved enough. But there’s a counter-argument to be made for consistency. In a city where everything changes every five minutes, there is immense value in knowing that the Gnocchi with Braised Oxtail will taste exactly the same today as it did in 2012.
Practical Tips for Getting a Table
Getting into Babbo is still a bit of a sport. They release tables on Resy, and they go fast.
- The Bar Strategy: The bar is held for walk-ins. If you show up right when they open (usually 5:00 PM), you have a very high chance of snagging a seat. You can eat the full menu there.
- Lunch is Gone: As of now, Babbo is primarily a dinner-only operation. Don't show up at noon expecting a feast.
- The Dress Code: It’s "Smart Casual," but it’s New York. You’ll see people in suits and people in high-end streetwear. Just don't wear flip-flops. Respect the room.
The Business of Longevity
How does a place like this stay relevant when trendy spots like Carbone or Torrisi are sucking up all the oxygen in the room?
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It’s the "Babbo regulars." There is a subset of New Yorkers who have been eating here once a month for twenty years. That loyalty creates a floor that most restaurants don't have. When the pandemic hit, those regulars were the ones ordering takeout and buying gift cards.
The restaurant also benefits from its location. Greenwich Village is timeless. A restaurant on Waverly Place feels like it belongs to the neighborhood in a way that a spot in Hudson Yards never will.
Final Verdict on the Experience
Babbo Ristorante New York remains a pillar of the city’s culinary landscape because it refuses to be boring. It’s loud, it’s expensive, and the food is unapologetically heavy. It’s a celebration of Italian-American ingenuity through a fine-dining lens.
If you're visiting New York or if you've lived here for a decade and just haven't made it over to Waverly Place lately, go. It’s a reminder of why we eat out in the first place—to feel something.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Book 28 days in advance: Reservations typically open a month out. Set an alert on your phone for 10:00 AM.
- Order the Pasta Tasting Menu: If you really want to see what the kitchen can do, the tasting menu is the way to go. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.
- Check the Specials: The seasonal specials often feature produce from the Union Square Greenmarket, which is just a few blocks away. This is where the kitchen shows its range beyond the "classics."
- Walk the Village after: You are steps away from Washington Square Park. A post-pasta stroll is basically mandatory to digest that much butter.
- Budget accordingly: Expect to spend at least $150 per person if you’re doing cocktails and wine. It’s a splurge, but one that actually delivers on the promise.