Honestly, the Azores islands in Portugal are having a bit of a "moment" right now, and it’s kinda stressing me out. Everyone sees the same three photos of Sete Cidades on Instagram and thinks they’ve seen the whole archipelago. They haven't. Not even close. You’re looking at nine distinct volcanic peaks sticking out of the Atlantic, nearly 1,000 miles away from Lisbon. It’s rugged. It’s wet. It’s incredibly green. But if you just fly into Ponta Delgada and stay there for a week, you’re basically eating the appetizer and skipping the steak.
The Azores aren't the tropics. Don't go there expecting the Algarve or the Caribbean. It’s more like Hawaii met Scotland, had a kid, and then that kid decided to speak Portuguese and obsess over dairy cows.
The Reality of the "Green Island" Obsession
Most people start and end with São Miguel. I get it. It’s the biggest. It’s got the direct flights from Boston and London. But the Azores islands in Portugal are a massive chain divided into three groups: the Eastern, the Central, and the Western.
São Miguel is great, don't get me wrong. You have the iron-rich thermal baths at Terra Nostra where the water is a murky orange and ruins your favorite white swimsuit. You have the tea plantations—Gorreana is actually the only industrial tea plantation in Europe, which is a wild fact when you think about it. But because it’s the easiest to reach, it’s getting crowded. If you want the "lost in time" feeling, you have to look further.
Have you heard of Corvo? Probably not. It’s the smallest island. There’s one town, Vila do Porto. There are about 400 people living there. Total. They all know each other's business. To get there, you usually have to take a tiny SATA Air Açores plane that feels more like a flying bus. It’s tiny. It’s windy. It’s isolated. But standing on the rim of the Caldeirão crater on Corvo is one of those rare moments where the world actually feels quiet.
Weather: The Four Seasons in Fifteen Minutes
Let's talk about the weather because it’s the biggest complaint from tourists. People arrive in June expecting 80-degree sun and get hit with a wall of mist. The locals have a saying: "If you don't like the weather, wait five minutes." It’s not a joke.
You can be sunbathing in the afternoon and huddled under a raincoat by 4:00 PM. The humidity is constant. It’s why everything is so green. It’s also why your hair will never look good the entire time you're there. Just accept the frizz. It's part of the vibe.
Because of this micro-climate situation, the Azores islands in Portugal require a weird packing list. You need hiking boots, a swimsuit, and a heavy-duty shell. Layering isn't just a suggestion; it's a survival tactic. If you’re planning to hike Mount Pico—the highest point in all of Portugal—you might start in shorts and end in a fleece while literally standing inside a cloud.
Why Pico is Actually the Coolest Island
If I’m being honest, Pico is my favorite. It feels different. The ground is black. The vineyards are built into thousands of little stone corrals called currais to protect the grapes from the salt spray and wind. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason.
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The wine is unlike anything else. It’s salty. Acidic. It tastes like the ocean. Pico’s Verdelho was so famous back in the day that it was found in the cellars of Russian Tsars. Think about that. These tiny volcanic islands were fueling the parties of the Romanovs.
Then there’s the whale watching. The Azores used to be a hub for whaling—not the proudest part of their history, but a factual one. They stopped in the 1980s. Now, those same families who used to hunt them are the best spotters in the world. They use vigias (lookout towers) on the cliffs to find sperm whales and blue whales. Seeing a Blue Whale breach off the coast of Pico makes you feel very, very small.
The "Over-Tourism" Warning
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the secret is out. In 2023 and 2024, the numbers spiked. The regional government is trying to manage it. They have limits on how many people can visit places like Lagoa do Fogo. You have to take a shuttle bus now during the peak summer months.
This is a good thing.
The ecosystem here is fragile. You have endemic plants like the Azorean Heather and the Juniper that don't grow anywhere else. If everyone tramples off-trail for a selfie, the "Green Island" won't be green for long.
If you want to avoid the crowds, go to Flores. It’s the westernmost point of Europe. It’s basically just waterfalls. Waterfalls everywhere. Poço da Alagoinha is a lake fed by about twenty different falls dripping down a massive green cliff. It looks like a movie set. It’s hard to get to, and the weather is even more temperamental than the other islands, but that’s the price of admission for paradise.
Food: It's More Than Just Cozido
Everyone tells you to eat Cozido das Furnas. This is the stew cooked in the ground by volcanic heat. It takes about six or seven hours to cook. It’s a cool experience watching them pull the pots out of the steaming earth.
But honestly? It’s a lot of boiled meat. It’s heavy.
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If you really want to eat like a local, look for Lapas (limpets). They serve them on a sizzling platter with plenty of garlic and butter and a squeeze of lemon. They’re chewy, salty, and perfect. Pair it with Bolo Lêvedo, which is like a cross between an English muffin and a pancake. I could live on those things.
And the cheese. Good grief, the cheese. São Jorge island produces a spicy, hard cheese that is world-famous. Because there are more cows than people in the Azores, the dairy is top-tier. Even the butter tastes better. It’s yellow—naturally yellow—because the cows eat actual grass all year round instead of grain in a stall.
Practical Logistics for the Modern Traveler
Getting around isn't as easy as renting a car in Lisbon. You need a car, period. Public transport exists, but it’s on "island time." If you don't book your rental car months in advance, you will be stranded or paying $200 a day for a beat-up manual hatchback.
Inter-island travel is the tricky part. You have two choices:
- SATA Air Açores: Quick, but pricey.
- Atlanticoline Ferries: Great for the "Triangle" (Faial, Pico, and São Jorge), but the ferry from the central group to the eastern group can take 12+ hours and the Atlantic is not a calm pond. People get seasick. Often.
The Misconception of Cost
People think because it’s Portugal, it’ll be dirt cheap. It’s cheaper than Hawaii, sure. But it’s an archipelago. Everything that isn't grown there has to be shipped in. Gas is expensive. Electricity is a challenge. You’ll find that dinner is affordable, but activities and logistics add up fast.
Hidden Spots You Won't Find on the First Page of Google
If you make it to Terceira, go to Angra do Heroísmo. It’s a stunning Renaissance city. But the real gem is Algar do Carvão. It’s a volcanic chimney you can actually walk down into. There aren't many places on Earth where you can stand inside a magma chamber and look up at the sky through a moss-covered vent.
On Faial, go to Capelinhos. In 1957, a volcano erupted underwater and just... kept going. It added new land to the island. The landscape there looks like the moon. It’s grey, barren, and surreal compared to the lush green of the rest of the island. There’s a lighthouse that’s half-buried in ash. It’s a stark reminder that these islands are very much alive.
What Nobody Tells You About the Beaches
The Azores islands in Portugal aren't a "beach holiday" destination in the traditional sense. Most of the coast is jagged volcanic rock. There are "natural pools" (piscinas naturais) where they’ve built concrete steps into the rocks so you can swim in the ocean without being shredded by barnacles.
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The sand beaches that do exist, like Praia de Santa Bárbara on São Miguel, have black sand. It gets incredibly hot. It sticks to everything. But it’s beautiful in a moody, cinematic way. The surf is world-class, though. If you’re a surfer, Ribeira Grande is your mecca.
How to Actually Plan This Trip
Don't try to see five islands in ten days. You'll spend your whole vacation in airports. Pick two islands, maybe three if they are in the Central Group.
If you like hiking and "big" sights: São Miguel and Flores.
If you like wine, whales, and culture: Pico, Faial, and São Jorge.
If you want to disappear: Santa Maria or Corvo.
Santa Maria is actually the only island with yellow sand beaches, by the way. It’s older than the other islands, geologically speaking, so it’s had more time to erode. It’s also the sunniest.
Actionable Steps for Your Azores Adventure
Stop overthinking the "perfect" itinerary and start with the logistics that actually matter. First, check the flight connections. If you’re coming from the US, Azores Airlines (SATA) has the monopoly, but United and Delta have started dipping their toes in.
Next, book your car. I cannot stress this enough. If you see a car available on a site like Autoatlantis or Ilha Verde, grab it. Waiting two weeks could mean the difference between a compact car and a 9-passenger van you can't park in the narrow streets of Angra.
Download the SpotAzores app. This is the single most important tool you’ll have. It’s a network of live webcams across all the islands. Because the weather changes so fast, you can check the app to see if Sete Cidades is covered in fog before you drive 45 minutes to get there. If the west is foggy, the east is often sunny.
Finally, learn a few words of Portuguese. While many people in the tourist areas speak English—especially those who have family in the US or Canada—a "Bom dia" goes a long way. The Azorean accent is thick and famously difficult even for mainland Portuguese people to understand, so don't be discouraged if you struggle at first.
Go for the hikes, stay for the cheese, and leave the Instagram expectations at the gate. The Azores are better than a filtered photo anyway.
Check the ferry schedules on the Atlanticoline website before you commit to an island-hopping route, as some routes only run seasonally or on specific days of the week. Verify your drone permits if you plan to fly; the Portuguese National Aeronautical Authority (AAN) is strict about no-fly zones over protected lagoons. Most importantly, pack a high-quality reusable water bottle—the tap water on the islands is some of the cleanest and most mineral-rich in the world.