You’ve probably seen the photos. Those golden-hour shots of the Roman Arena or the sunflower-yellow café where Vincent van Gogh supposedly lost his mind (and an ear). Honestly, Arles feels like a movie set sometimes. But if you’re heading there thinking it’s just a sleepy museum town for art history nerds, you’re going to be surprised. It’s gritty. It’s loud. It’s surprisingly modern.
Deciding what to see in Arles isn't about checking off a list. It’s about navigating the weird tension between a 2,000-year-old Roman powerhouse and a cutting-edge art scene that’s currently being fueled by billionaire-backed architecture. You can literally walk from a first-century amphitheater to a 56-meter-tall tower of shimmering aluminum in under ten minutes. It’s a bit of a trip.
The Roman Heavyweights (And Why You Shouldn't Skip the Underworld)
Most people start at the Arles Amphitheatre. It’s the obvious choice. Built around 80 AD, this thing is massive—it used to hold 20,000 people screaming for gladiator blood. Today, it’s still used for bullfights and "bull games" (where they try to snatch a ribbon off the bull’s horns without getting tossed).
But here’s the thing: while the Arena is the "star," the Cryptoporticus is the real secret.
Basically, it's a massive U-shaped system of underground galleries sitting right beneath the Forum. It’s dark, damp, and smells like ancient limestone. Most tourists walk right over it. Back in the day, these tunnels were likely used as storage or to level the ground for the structures above. Walking through them feels like you’ve stepped into a noir film. It’s also the best place to escape the brutal Provençal sun in July.
Then there’s the Theatre Antique. It’s more of a ruin than the Arena, but that’s why it’s better. It’s evocative. You can sit on the stones and look at the "Two Widows"—the two lone columns still standing—and actually feel the age of the place.
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Chasing Vincent’s Ghost Without the Clichés
Let’s be real: Vincent van Gogh didn’t have a great time in Arles. He was broke, lonely, and eventually institutionalized. Yet, this is where he painted over 300 works.
If you want to know what to see in Arles regarding Van Gogh, don't just go to the Café Van Gogh (the yellow one on Place du Forum). It’s a tourist trap. The food is... okay, I guess? But it’s expensive and doesn't actually look like his painting anymore; it was redesigned to look like the painting after the fact.
Instead, head to the Espace Van Gogh. This was the hospital where he was treated after the ear incident. The courtyard is planted exactly as it appeared in his painting Le Jardin de l'Hôtel de Dieu. It’s free, it’s quiet, and it feels genuine.
For something a bit more substantial, the Fondation Vincent van Gogh is a must. They don’t have a massive permanent collection of his work (those are mostly in Amsterdam or Paris), but they host incredible temporary exhibitions that pair his originals with contemporary artists. It’s more about his legacy than just looking at a canvas.
The Tower That Changed Everything: LUMA Arles
If the Romans built the past, Maja Hoffmann is building the future. The LUMA Arles complex is a 27-acre "creative campus" on an old railway site. Its centerpiece? The Tower, designed by Frank Gehry.
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It’s polarizing. Some locals hate it, calling it a "crinkled tin can" that ruins the skyline. Others think it’s the best thing to happen to the economy in decades. It’s covered in 11,000 stainless steel panels that reflect the light of the Camargue in a way that’s actually pretty mesmerizing.
- Pro Tip: You can go up to the panoramic terrace on the 9th floor for free. The views of the city and the Alpilles mountains are unbeatable.
- Don't Miss: The "Drum"—the glass base of the tower—which echoes the shape of the Roman Arena.
The rest of the Parc des Ateliers is filled with massive industrial sheds hosting experimental art and photography. It’s a lot to take in.
The Saturday Market: 2 Kilometers of Chaos
If you are in town on a Saturday, forget your diet. The Arles Market is one of the biggest in Provence. It stretches for about two kilometers along Boulevard des Lices and Boulevard Georges-Clemenceau.
You’ll find:
- Massive wheels of Comté cheese.
- Saucisson d’Arles (a local donkey or beef sausage—don't knock it until you try it).
- Buckets of olives and tapenade.
- Camargue rice (red rice is the local specialty).
- Vintage clothes and weird antiques.
It is loud, crowded, and glorious. Buy some local strawberries (the Mara des Bois variety if they have them) and a rotisserie chicken, then head to the Jardin d’Été for a picnic.
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A Note on the "Camargue Factor"
Arles is the gateway to the Camargue, Europe's largest river delta. This is why you see bulls and horses everywhere. If you have an extra afternoon, drive 20 minutes south. You’ll see pink flamingos, wild white horses, and salt pans that turn the water a surreal shade of neon pink.
Most people think of Arles as a city, but it's actually the largest commune in France by area because it includes all this wild swampland. It’s a weird mix of cowboy culture and high-end art.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
Don't just wing it. Arles is small, but it’s dense.
- Buy the Liberté Pass: If you're seeing more than three monuments, this pass saves you a ton of money. It covers the Arena, the Theatre, the Cloister of St. Trophime, and the Alyscamps.
- Check the Dates: If you visit between July and September, the Rencontres d’Arles photography festival is on. The city explodes with exhibitions in churches and industrial spaces. It’s the best time to be there, but book your hotel months in advance.
- Walk the Quai du Rhône at Night: This is where Van Gogh painted Starry Night Over the Rhône. The gaslights are gone, but the reflection of the city in the water is still exactly the same.
- Avoid the "Yellow Café" for Lunch: Walk three blocks into the backstreets of the La Roquette district. That’s where the locals eat. Look for places like Le Galoubet or L'Ouvre Boîte.
Arles isn't just a museum; it's a living, breathing, slightly messy city that happens to have a few world-class ruins scattered around. Treat it like a hike through history rather than a sightseeing tour, and you'll get much more out of it.