You've seen the look. A guy walks into a room wearing a jacket with those overlapping front flaps and two rows of buttons, and suddenly he looks like he owns the building. Or he looks like he’s wearing his grandfather’s oversized curtains. There is rarely an in-between.
So, are double breasted suits in fashion right now?
The short answer is yes. But it’s not the 1980s "Wall Street" vibe you might be picturing. We aren't doing the massive, boxy shoulders and the pooling trousers of the Gordon Gekko era anymore. Modern tailoring has basically gutted the old silhouette and rebuilt it from the ground up. Honestly, if you haven't checked out a double-breasted (DB) jacket in the last two years, you’re missing out on the most effective shortcut to looking like you actually know what you’re doing with your wardrobe.
The Shift from Corporate Armor to Italian Ease
For a long time, the double-breasted suit was the uniform of the stiff. It was formal. It was rigid. You wore it to a board meeting or a funeral, and that was about it. But the landscape has shifted. Brands like Brunello Cucinelli and Boglioli have pioneered a style often called sprezzatura, which basically means looking incredibly cool without trying at all.
They did this by removing the "guts" of the suit.
Modern double-breasted jackets often lack heavy canvas interlining and thick shoulder pads. This makes the jacket drape more like a cardigan than a suit of armor. When you ask if are double breasted suits in fashion, you have to look at the "6x2" button configuration. This is the gold standard: six buttons total, but only two that actually fasten. It creates a longer "V" shape at the chest, which makes you look taller and slimmer. Compare that to the old 4x1 or 6x1 styles that buttoned low and made everyone look like they had a "dad bod," even if they didn't.
Why the Red Carpet is Obsessed
Look at the recent awards cycles. You'll see actors like Cillian Murphy or Colman Domingo skipping the standard two-button notch lapel for something with more teeth. Peak lapels are the defining feature here. Because a double-breasted jacket requires that extra fabric to wrap across the torso, it almost always demands a peak lapel to balance the proportions.
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It's a power move.
The peak lapel points toward the shoulders, emphasizing a masculine V-taper. It’s a subtle psychological trick. It says "I’m here" without you having to say a word. Plus, in a sea of identical navy single-breasted suits, the DB stands out. It’s different. It shows effort.
The "Golden Rule" of the Bottom Button
Here is where people usually mess up. Just like a single-breasted suit, you never, ever fasten the bottom button. On a 6x2 jacket, you fasten the middle one. If it’s a "Kent" style (a 4x1 or 4x2), you generally fasten the top one of the functional pair.
Leaving that bottom button undone allows the jacket to flare slightly at the hips, which prevents it from bunching up when you move. It looks relaxed. It looks intentional. If you button every single button, you’ll look like a submarine commander from a 1940s propaganda film. Unless that is the specific vibe you are going for, just don't do it.
Fabric Makes the Difference Between 1985 and 2026
If you go to a vintage shop and find an old Armani DB, it’s probably made of heavy, scratchy wool. It’s hot. It’s stiff.
Modern fashion has embraced texture. We are seeing a massive surge in linen-silk blends, corduroy, and even seersucker for double-breasted cuts. A tobacco-colored linen double-breasted jacket with cream trousers is basically the unofficial uniform of the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence. It's sophisticated but breathable.
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The Rise of the "Broken Suit"
One of the biggest reasons are double breasted suits in fashion today is the "separates" movement. You don't have to wear the full suit. In fact, wearing a DB jacket with denim or high-quality chinos is one of the easiest ways to level up a casual outfit.
Try this:
- A navy double-breasted blazer (metal buttons are optional, but dark horn buttons are more versatile).
- A white or light blue denim shirt.
- Off-white or stone-colored chinos.
- Loafers (no socks, if the weather allows).
It works because the formality of the jacket is "broken" by the casualness of the pants. It’s the ultimate "smart casual" loophole.
Common Misconceptions and Body Types
There’s a persistent myth that short men or "stout" men can’t wear double-breasted suits. That is total nonsense.
In fact, if you’re on the shorter side, a DB jacket can actually help. By choosing a jacket with a slightly higher "gorge" (where the lapel meets the collar) and a button stance that sits slightly above your natural waist, you create the illusion of longer legs. The key is the fit. If the jacket is too long, yes, it will swallow you. But a cropped, modern DB jacket is incredibly flattering.
For larger guys, the double layer of fabric across the midsection actually provides a bit of structure. It holds everything in. It creates a clean line where a single-breasted jacket might pull or gape at the button.
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The Internal Button: The Secret Hero
Ever wonder why DB jackets have a random button on the inside? That’s the "jigger" button.
You must use it.
If you don't fasten the internal button, the under-lapel will sag, and the whole front of the suit will look lopsided. It takes two extra seconds to fasten, but it’s the difference between looking sharp and looking like a mess.
Maintenance and Storage
Because these jackets have more structure and fabric, they don't love being crammed into a tight closet. Use a wide, contoured cedar hanger. This preserves the roll of the lapel and the shape of the shoulders. Cheap wire hangers will ruin the silhouette of a DB jacket faster than you can say "dry clean only."
Speaking of dry cleaning: don't do it too often. The chemicals break down the natural oils in the wool. Use a horsehair brush to get rid of dust after you wear it, and steam it to get the wrinkles out. Only dry clean it if you actually spill something on it or if it starts to smell like a locker room.
Where to Buy Right Now
If you're looking to jump into this trend, you don't necessarily need to go bespoke.
- SuitSupply is generally the "entry drug" for DB suits. They use great Italian fabrics and their "Havana" or "Madison" cuts are very contemporary.
- Spier & Mackay offers a more traditional, "Sartorial" look at an incredible price point.
- Pini Parma is the go-to if you want that high-end Italian aesthetic without the four-figure price tag of the big luxury houses.
Actionable Steps for Your First Double Breasted Suit
Don't just run out and buy the first one you see. Follow this checklist to make sure you're actually hitting the mark:
- Check the Lapel Width: Aim for a lapel that is at least 3.5 to 4 inches wide. Anything narrower looks "fashion-y" and will be out of style by next Tuesday.
- Focus on the Shoulders: The seam should end exactly where your shoulder ends. If it hangs over, the jacket is too big. Period.
- Choose the 6x2: If this is your first one, stick to the six-button layout. It is the most timeless and versatile.
- Taper the Sleeves: Most off-the-rack suits have sleeves that are too wide. Ask your tailor to slim them down slightly. It makes the whole jacket look more expensive.
- Watch the Length: The jacket should cover your seat (your rear end). "High-fashion" brands sometimes make them too short, which makes you look like you're wearing a child's blazer.
The double-breasted suit isn't just "in fashion"—it has become a staple of the modern man's rotation. It tells the world you’re confident enough to wear something with a bit of personality. It’s a classic for a reason. Get the fit right, keep the bottom button undone, and you’ll realize why this silhouette has survived for over a century.