You've probably seen the viral memes. You know the ones—the grainy photos of poster boards in Pyongyang barbershops showing "legal" hairstyles, with claims that everyone is forced to look exactly like Kim Jong Un. Or worse, the rumors that the leader's specific "trapezoid" fade is the only option.
Honestly? Most of that is total nonsense.
The reality of approved north korean haircuts is way more nuanced, a bit weird, and tells a fascinating story about how the state views the human body as a billboard for "socialist hygiene." It isn't just about fashion; it's about politics. It’s about not looking like a "capitalist delinquent." While there isn't a single law book with 28 specific photos that says "cut your hair like this or go to jail," there is a very real, very strict set of social guidelines and state-run campaigns that dictate what is acceptable on the streets of Pyongyang.
The Myth of the 28 Hairstyles
Let’s clear the air. In 2013, a bunch of news outlets started circulating a photo of a salon poster featuring 18 styles for women and 10 for men. They called it the "official list of state-mandated haircuts."
It wasn’t.
Those posters are basically just "suggested styles." Think of them like the posters you see in a Supercuts in Ohio. They are examples of what the barber knows how to do. However, in North Korea, those "suggestions" carry the weight of state approval. You won't find a poster for a mohawk or neon blue mullet because those would be "antisocialist."
Real-world observers and photographers like Jela Hafner, who has spent significant time in the country, note that while there is variety, it stays within a very narrow "conservative" lane. You see a lot of bob cuts for women. For men, it’s mostly short back and sides. It’s less about a "list" and more about an invisible boundary you simply don't cross.
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Why the State Cares About Your Sideburns
Why does a nuclear-armed state care if a guy has long hair? Because in the North Korean ideology of Juche, your appearance isn't yours. It belongs to the collective.
Back in 2004/2005, the state-run Korean Central Television (KCTV) aired a series titled Let us trim our hair in accordance with the Socialist lifestyle. This wasn't a suggestion. It was a full-on propaganda blitz. They actually used hidden cameras to "shame" people on TV who had long hair, calling out their names and addresses to embarrass them.
The logic was peak North Korea: long hair "consumes nutrients" that would otherwise go to the brain. Seriously. They argued that long hair makes you less intelligent because it siphons off energy. While we know that’s biologically impossible, it served a purpose. It gave the state a reason to enforce a neat, uniform look that rejected Western "decadence."
The Rules for Men vs. Women
Men have it much harder. Generally, men are expected to keep their hair between 1 and 5 centimeters (roughly 0.4 to 2 inches). Every 15 days, you're supposed to get a trim. Older men get a little more slack—they can grow their hair up to 7 centimeters (about 3 inches) to help hide balding, which is a surprisingly human concession in such a rigid system.
Women have more freedom, but it’s still conditional.
- Unmarried women usually keep their hair shorter, often in simple bobs.
- Married women are allowed to experiment more with perms and longer styles, though "long" still usually means shoulder-length.
If you walk through Pyongyang today, you'll see a lot of perms. It’s actually the height of fashion there. But you won’t see braids, dreadlocks, or anything that screams "global pop culture." The goal is to look like a "productive member of society."
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The "Kim Jong Un" Style Paradox
Here’s a weird twist: for a long time, people thought everyone had to copy the leader. In reality, for many years, nobody dared to copy Kim Jong Un. His specific haircut—the high-shaved sides and the voluminous top (often called the "ambitious" style in state media)—was seen as his personal brand.
It’s like trying to wear a crown in a monarchy. It’s not a good look to imitate the "Supreme Dignity."
However, style trends do trickle down. In recent years, younger men in Pyongyang have started adopting a "taper fade" that mimics the leader’s look without being a direct carbon copy. It’s a way to show loyalty while staying trendy. But even then, the barbers are the gatekeepers. If you ask for something too "Western," they’ll simply say no. They have their own licenses to worry about.
Enforcement: The Fashion Police are Real
So, who actually stops you? It’s not usually a soldier with a rifle. It’s the Gyachal-dae. These are often members of the Socialist Patriotic Youth League. They stand at major intersections or near schools and look for "fashion crimes."
If your hair is too long, or your trousers are too tight, they might:
- Give you a stern warning.
- Take you to a nearby barber for a forced "correction."
- Write your name down for a report to your workplace or school unit.
For a North Korean, that third option is the scariest. A bad report from the youth league can affect your job prospects, your ability to join the Party, and your general social standing. Peer pressure is the ultimate scissors.
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The Rise of "Hallyu" and the Underground Style
Despite the risks, things are changing. Even with the border closures of the last few years, Chinese mobile phones and smuggled USB sticks filled with South Korean "K-Dramas" find their way in. This is the biggest threat to approved north korean haircuts.
Young people see South Korean actors with soft, layered hair or dyed brown tints. They want it. In private homes, "clandestine" hairdressers will give you a South Korean style for a price. They’ll dye your hair using smuggled chemicals, but people are careful—they’ll often dye it back to black or hide it under a hat if they know a patrol is nearby.
This tension between the "Socialist style" and the "Seoul style" is a constant battleground. The state recently doubled down with the "Reactionary Ideology and Culture Rejection Act," which significantly increased punishments for anyone caught mimicking foreign speech, dress, or hairstyles.
What This Actually Means for You
Understanding the reality of hair in North Korea helps strip away the "wacky" caricatures and reveals a society built on total conformity. It isn't just a funny story about bad haircuts; it's a window into how the government maintains control over the individual.
If you are researching this for a project or just out of curiosity, keep these takeaways in mind:
- There is no "List of 28": Those are salon posters, not criminal statutes.
- Conformity is the Goal: Hair is a tool for national identity, not personal expression.
- Hygiene as Propaganda: The state uses "health" claims (like hair stealing brain power) to justify control.
- Generational Shifting: Despite the 2026-era crackdowns, the influence of global fashion is making it harder for the state to keep everyone’s hair at exactly 5 centimeters.
To get a better sense of how this looks in practice, look for the photography of Jaka Parker, who lived in Pyongyang and captured candid shots of everyday life. You’ll see that while everyone looks "neat," there is a bit more variety than the internet headlines would lead you to believe.
The best way to stay informed on this is to follow organizations like Liberty in North Korea (LiNK) or 38 North, which provide analysis based on satellite imagery and defector testimonies rather than viral, unverified photos.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're looking to dive deeper into the sociology of North Korean aesthetics, start by looking at the Manbang video archive or recent KCTV broadcasts available on YouTube. Pay attention to the background extras in news segments—they are the most honest reflection of what is actually being worn on the streets. Avoid "listicle" sites that reuse the same 2013 posters; instead, look for recent "walking tours" filmed by diplomats or NGO workers which show the slow evolution of Pyongyang's street style.