It’s usually the middle of a deadline when it happens. You’re dragging a file, or maybe just trying to close a tab, and suddenly the cursor freezes. Or worse, it starts stuttering across the screen like it’s walking through mud. When you realize your apple computer mouse not working is more than just a momentary glitch, the frustration is real. Apple’s Magic Mouse is a sleek piece of engineering, but it’s notoriously finicky when it comes to Bluetooth interference and sensor hygiene.
Most people immediately assume the hardware is dead. They think about the $79 replacement cost and start getting annoyed. Honestly, it’s rarely a hardware failure. Most of the time, the issue lives in the software handshake between macOS and the peripheral, or it's a physical obstruction so tiny you can’t even see it with the naked eye.
Why your Mac and mouse stopped talking
Bluetooth is a crowded neighborhood. Your mouse is constantly fighting for space against your Wi-Fi router, your wireless headphones, and even that microwave in the breakroom. If you find your apple computer mouse not working specifically in the afternoons or in a busy office, you’re likely looking at 2.4GHz interference. It’s a mess.
Sometimes the problem is deeper in the system. macOS handles peripheral inputs through a process called bluetoothd. If that process hangs, your mouse becomes a paperweight. You can try turning the mouse off and on—the classic "IT crowd" move—but if the daemon is stuck, the hardware toggle won't do much. You've gotta force the Mac to forget the mouse entirely and start the courtship over from scratch.
The sensor is more sensitive than you think
Look at the bottom of the mouse. See that tiny rectangular opening? Even a single human hair or a microscopic speck of dust wedged in there will throw off the laser. It doesn't take much. If your cursor is jumping around or moving only on one axis, grab a can of compressed air. Do not—I repeat, do not—stick a toothpick in there. You'll scratch the lens, and then you actually will have to buy a new one.
Troubleshooting the apple computer mouse not working nightmare
Let’s get into the weeds. If the basics didn't work, we need to get aggressive with the settings.
First, check the "Ignore built-in trackpad" setting if you're on a MacBook. Sometimes macOS gets confused and thinks you want the trackpad to take priority, disabling external inputs. You’ll find this buried in Accessibility settings, not the Mouse settings. It’s a weird place for it, but that’s Apple for you.
Another common culprit is the rechargeable battery in the Magic Mouse 2. If the charge drops below 5%, the connection becomes incredibly unstable. It won't just die; it'll act possessed. Plug it in for fifteen minutes. Even if the menu bar says 15%, the voltage might be dipping too low to maintain a steady Bluetooth ping.
Resetting the Bluetooth Module
If the mouse is connected but won't move, you need to kick the Bluetooth module. In older versions of macOS, you could Shift-Option click the Bluetooth icon in the menu bar to find the "Reset the Bluetooth module" hidden menu. In Sonoma and Sequoia, Apple moved things around. Now, you’re better off using the Terminal.
Open Terminal and type sudo pkill bluetoothd. Hit enter, put in your password, and wait. The system will kill the Bluetooth process and instantly respawn it. Most of the time, your mouse will reconnect within five seconds and work perfectly. It’s like a cold shower for your Mac’s wireless radio.
Surface Tension
The Magic Mouse is picky about what it sits on. If you’re using a glass desk, stop. The laser needs a surface it can actually "see." Even some high-gloss white desks reflect the light in ways that confuse the sensor. Try a standard black cloth mousepad. If the mouse suddenly starts working, you know the desk was the villain all along.
Dealing with the dreaded "Click of Death"
Sometimes the cursor moves, but it won't click. Or it double-clicks when you only pressed once. This is usually a buildup of "gunk" (professional term) around the edges of the top shell. Since the Magic Mouse is one seamless piece of plastic, skin oils and dust can get trapped in the hairline fracture between the top shell and the bottom housing.
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Take a very thin piece of paper—like a receipt—and slide it around the edge of the mouse. You’d be surprised at what comes out. If that doesn't fix it, the issue might be software-based "Clicking" acceleration. Go to System Settings > Mouse and toggle "Natural Scrolling" off and back on. It sounds unrelated, but it forces a refresh of the input driver.
When to give up and call AppleCare
If you’ve reset the PRAM/NVRAM (hold Option-Command-P-R during boot), killed the Bluetooth daemon, cleaned the sensor, and tried a different surface, and you’re still seeing your apple computer mouse not working, it might be the internal radio.
To confirm this, try pairing the mouse with an iPad or a different laptop. If it fails there too, the hardware has likely bit the dust. Apple’s internal diagnostics can’t always catch a failing Bluetooth chip in the mouse itself, so if you’re under warranty, just ask for a swap.
Actionable Next Steps
- Toggle the physical switch: Flip the mouse over, turn it off, wait ten seconds, and flip it back on. Simple, but it resets the local firmware.
- Check for interference: Move your phone and any unshielded USB hubs away from your Mac. USB 3.0 hubs are notorious for leaking 2.4GHz interference that kills mouse signals.
- Verify the charge: Plug the mouse into a direct Mac port (not a hub) for at least 30 minutes to ensure the battery cells are properly balanced.
- Clean the "Eye": Use a Q-tip with a tiny drop of 90% isopropyl alcohol to clean the sensor lens, then dry it with a blast of air.
- Nuclear Option: Go to
/Library/Preferences/and deletecom.apple.Bluetooth.plist. Restart your Mac. This forces the OS to rebuild the entire wireless preference stack from scratch.