You’re walking down Princes Street, the wind is probably biting—because, well, Edinburgh—and you see that massive, soot-stained monument on Calton Hill. Most people just keep walking. They miss the fact that tucked right there at the end of the road is a building that basically invented the modern Scottish holiday. Honestly, the Apex Waterloo Place Edinburgh Scotland isn't just another four-star pitstop with decent linens. It’s a 19th-century survivor that somehow feels like a Scandi-chic apartment from 2026.
Back in 1819, this place opened as the city’s first "purpose-built" large-scale hotel. That sounds like a boring trivia point until you realize that before this, if you were a traveler in Edinburgh, you were basically crashing in cramped taverns or drafty guesthouses. Then came architect Archibald Elliot. He decided Edinburgh needed some swagger. He built a palace for the public. It had a ballroom that was basically legendary, a massive cupola that let the weak Scottish sun pour in, and it hosted people like Charles Dickens.
Then, for about a century, it just... stopped being a hotel. It became offices for the railway and then the council. It’s kinda wild to think about people filing tax paperwork in rooms where Dickens once complained about his tea. Apex swooped in around 2009 and spent roughly £30 million to bring it back to its original purpose.
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The Weird Layout and Why It Works
If you walk in and feel a bit disoriented, don't worry. You aren't crazy.
Edinburgh is built on a series of jagged hills and bridges, and Waterloo Place is no exception. Because of the way the street sits, the main entrance is actually on the 5th floor of the ten-story building. You enter at street level, but you’re halfway up the sky. It’s one of those "only in Edinburgh" architectural quirks that makes the views from the back of the hotel surprisingly dramatic.
The rooms aren't your typical cookie-cutter boxes. Because they had to work within the bones of a Grade A-listed Georgian structure, the shapes are a bit eccentric. You’ve got high ceilings in the old part and sleek, compact vibes in the newer extensions.
- City Rooms: These are the standard, but "standard" here means about 19-25 square meters.
- The Duplex Suites: This is the real flex. Two floors. A lounge downstairs and the bedroom upstairs. It feels less like a hotel and more like a posh New Town flat you’d see on a real estate show.
- The Little Rubber Duck: It’s a thing. Every Apex guest gets a mushroom-colored duck. It sounds cheesy, but people genuinely get upset if they don't find one on their bed.
The Yu Spa and the January 2026 Reality Check
Let's talk about the pool. It’s an "Ozone" pool, which basically means it uses a specific filtration system that doesn't leave you smelling like a public leisure center for three days. It’s tucked away in the basement—or the lower floors, depending on how you're counting levels—and it’s a total mood.
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However, if you're planning a trip right now, take note. There’s some essential maintenance happening. The pool is slated for a two-week closure starting January 19, 2026. You can still hit the sauna and the steam room, and the Technogym is still there if you're the type of person who actually works out on vacation (I'm not, but I respect the hustle).
Eating at Liberté vs. Exploring the Neighborhood
The hotel's main spot is the Liberté Brasserie. They do that "Scottish ingredients with European flair" thing. Think local seafood and beef, but plated like something you'd find in Paris.
But here’s the thing: you are at the literal nexus of the city.
Waverley Station is a five-minute walk. If you come in from London or the airport, you basically fall off the train and into the lobby. You’re also right around the corner from the Edinburgh Playhouse. If you’re in town for a show, this is the smartest place to stay. You can be in your pajamas ten minutes after the final curtain call while everyone else is fighting for an Uber in the rain.
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A Quick Reality Check on Parking
Don't drive here. Just don't.
Waterloo Place is busy, and like most of central Edinburgh, it hates cars. The hotel doesn't have its own parking lot. There are public garages nearby, like the Q-Park at OMNI, but they’ll set you back about £27-£30 a day. If you’re on a road trip, drop the rental car off at the airport and take the tram. It stops practically at the front door.
What Most People Miss
People forget to look up.
In the 1970s, the original grand ballroom was demolished to make room for an extension. It was a tragedy, honestly. But the architects kept the original cupola—the domed window. You can still see it on the 8th floor. It’s a tiny piece of the 1819 soul that survived the "office era."
Also, the staff is surprisingly "un-stiff" for a four-star luxury spot. You’ll get names like Nitesh or Liam at the front desk who actually know the city. They aren't just reading from a script. If you ask where to get a pint that isn't a tourist trap, they'll actually tell you the truth.
Actionable Tips for Your Stay
If you’re booking the Apex Waterloo Place Edinburgh Scotland, do these things to actually get your money's worth:
- Skip the "City Room" if you're a light sleeper. The front of the hotel faces Waterloo Place, which is a major bus route. The windows are double-glazed, but those Scottish buses are loud. Ask for a room at the back; the views are better anyway.
- Breakfast is non-negotiable. It’s one of the few hotel breakfasts in the city that actually feels like a restaurant meal. The haggis is legit.
- Check the pool status. As mentioned, the 2026 maintenance window is tight. If the pool is a dealbreaker, call ahead to confirm it’s back online.
- Walk to Calton Hill at sunset. It’s literally a two-minute walk from the hotel exit. You get the iconic "Postcard of Edinburgh" view without having to hike up Arthur's Seat.
- Use the Nespresso. Most rooms have them now. It’s a small thing, but drinking decent coffee while looking out at the Gothic skyline makes the room price feel a lot more justified.
The Apex Waterloo Place manages to be both a piece of history and a very functional, modern machine. It’s not the cheapest bed in town, but it’s probably the best-located one if you actually want to see Edinburgh without spending half your day on a bus. Just remember to pack your swim gear (after the maintenance is done) and leave the car at home.