Walk into any high-end garage or a "man cave" that actually looks like someone spent a fortune on it, and you're going to see one. That iconic winged foot. It’s blue and yellow, maybe a bit rusty around the grommets, and it screams Americana. Antique Goodyear tire signs are basically the gold standard for petroliana collectors, but honestly, the market is a total minefield right now. You’ve got reproductions that look eighty years old and original porcelain signs that are literally crumbling into dust while their price tags keep climbing toward five figures.
Collectors get obsessed. It's not just about the rubber; it's about that specific era of Ohio industrial might that doesn't really exist anymore.
If you’re looking at a sign and wondering if it’s a genuine piece of history or a $40 "distressed" hobby lobby special, you have to look at the mounting holes. Real deal antique Goodyear tire signs from the 1930s and 40s were heavy. I’m talking "might-rip-the-drywall-out" heavy. Most were made of heavy-gauge steel with a vitreous enamel (porcelain) coating. When you look at the holes where the screws go, a real vintage sign will usually show "spidering" or small cracks in the porcelain. That’s because the metal flexed over decades of wind and temperature changes, but the glass-like porcelain didn’t.
The weird history of the Winged Foot
Most people think the Goodyear logo was just a clever marketing gimmick dreamed up by an ad agency in the 1950s. Nope. It goes way back to 1900. Frank Seiberling, the founder, had a statue of Mercury in his home. He loved what it represented—speed, reliability, and the messenger of the gods. He pitched the idea of the "Wingfoot" to his team, and it stuck. By the time the 1920s rolled around, those vertical Goodyear service station signs were becoming a staple of the American roadside.
The early ones are the prizes.
In the early 20th century, signage wasn't just about branding; it was about durability. A paper sign wouldn't last a week in a rainy Ohio autumn. So, they went with porcelain. These signs were fired in kilns at temperatures exceeding 1,500 degrees Fahrenheit. Basically, they were baking glass onto steel. This is why a 1930s Goodyear sign can sit in a field for fifty years and, once you power-wash the moss off, it looks like it was made yesterday. The colors stay vivid because they aren't painted; they’re melted glass.
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Why condition is a double-edged sword
Value is a fickle thing in this hobby. You might find a massive 6-foot Goodyear porcelain sign at an estate sale in rural Pennsylvania. If it has "shotgun hits"—literally holes from people using it for target practice—the value plummets. But wait. Some collectors actually like a bit of "character." A mint condition sign can sometimes look too good, leading people to suspect it's a modern fake.
Authentic wear usually happens at the edges. Look for "shelving." If you run your finger across the transition between the yellow lettering and the blue background, you should feel a distinct ridge. This is because the porcelain was applied in layers using stencils. Modern digital printing is flat. If the sign feels as smooth as a smartphone screen, it’s probably a fake.
Spotting the fakes in a crowded market
The "fakers" are getting smarter. They use acids to dull the shine and bury signs in manure to simulate decades of aging. It sounds crazy, but when a rare double-sided Goodyear sign can fetch $5,000 at a Morphy Auction, people get creative with their fraud.
One dead giveaway is the grommets. Original signs often had brass or copper grommets to protect the porcelain from the mounting hardware. If the metal around the hole looks like it was drilled yesterday with a Black & Decker, walk away. Also, check the scale. Many reproductions are shrunk down to "gift shop size." An original dealership sign was meant to be seen from a moving Model T; they were usually quite large.
The weight is another huge factor. A genuine 30-inch porcelain sign will weigh significantly more than a modern tin version. If you can pick it up with two fingers, it’s not an antique.
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The vertical vs. horizontal debate
You'll see two main orientations for antique Goodyear tire signs. The horizontal "banner" style was often used on the sides of buildings or above garage bays. Then you have the vertical "Service Station" signs. The verticals are often more desirable because they fit better on the narrow pillars of modern garages.
There’s also the "Diamond" signs. These were common in the 1910s and 1920s. They featured the words "Goodyear Tires" inside a diamond border. These are incredibly rare. If you find one that isn't rusted through, you’re looking at a serious investment piece. Most of these were scrapped during the metal drives of World War II.
The market reality of 2026
Prices have spiked. A decade ago, you could snag a decent flange sign (the ones that stick out at a 90-degree angle from the wall) for maybe $400. Today? You’re lucky to find a beat-up one for $1,200. The "American Pickers" effect is real. Everyone thinks the junk in their barn is worth a down payment on a house.
But here’s the thing: the high end of the market is actually quite stable. Serious collectors who buy from places like Barrett-Jackson or specialized petroliana auctions aren't looking for "deals." They want provenance. They want to know the sign came from a specific closed dealership in 1964.
Where to actually find them
Don't go to eBay first. Seriously. The shipping costs on a heavy porcelain sign will kill the deal, and half the time they arrive shattered because someone tried to ship a 40-pound glass-coated plate in a single-layer cardboard box.
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- Local Farm Auctions: These are the last frontier. Look for "Advertising" or "Petroliana" in the listing descriptions.
- Specialized Shows: Events like the Iowa Gas Swap Meet are where the real heavy hitters hang out. You'll pay market price, but you'll know it's real.
- Facebook Groups: Surprisingly, there are some very high-integrity collector groups. People get called out instantly for posting fakes.
Preservation and Care
If you actually land an antique Goodyear tire sign, don't ruin it. Do not—under any circumstances—use abrasive cleaners or steel wool. You’re dealing with glass. Use a mild dish soap and a soft cloth. If there’s heavy rust on the exposed steel where the porcelain has chipped, some collectors use a tiny bit of WD-40 or a specialized wax like Renaissance Wax to stop the oxidation from spreading.
Whatever you do, don't "restore" it by painting over the chips. You will destroy the value. In the world of antique signs, "original" is a holy word. Collectors want to see the scars of time. They want to see that this sign survived the Great Depression, the scrap drives of the 40s, and the era of the interstate highway.
Identifying the eras
You can roughly date your find by the font and the foot.
- Early 1900s: Very thin, ornate "Wingfoot." Lots of text.
- 1930s-1940s: Bold, blocky "GOODYEAR" in blue and yellow. This is the "Golden Age."
- 1960s-1970s: Transition to lighter materials. More plastic (lexan) and thin aluminum. These are "vintage" but don't carry the same weight as the porcelain era.
Practical next steps for the serious buyer
Before you drop four figures on a sign, do your homework. Get a copy of the "Petroliana" identification guides by authors like Alan Petretti. These books are the bibles of the industry. Even though some pricing is outdated, the technical specs on sign sizes and manufacturers are invaluable.
Next, buy a high-powered magnet. If you're looking at a sign that is supposed to be porcelain but the magnet doesn't stick firmly, it's likely a composite or a very thin modern alloy. Also, carry a small LED flashlight. Shine it across the surface at an angle. This "raking light" will reveal repairs, over-painting, or fills that aren't visible to the naked eye.
Finally, check the "maker's mark." Many original Goodyear signs were produced by companies like Ingram-Richardson (Ing-Rich) or Veribrite Signs Chicago. These tiny stamps are usually at the very bottom edge. A sign with a clear maker's mark is much easier to authenticate and will always command a premium.
Start small. Maybe buy a smaller flange sign or a "tacker" (a small tin sign used for indoor displays) before diving into the massive dealership displays. You'll learn the "feel" of the metal and the look of the aging. Once you can smell the difference between old oxidized steel and fresh "distressed" paint, you're ready for the big leagues.