He was a bit grumpy at first. Honestly, if you watch the early footage of Anthony Bourdain in Portugal, he wasn't immediately sold on the "Disney-fied" versions of European travel. But something happened between his first clumsy steps in the A Cook’s Tour days and his final, poetic visits for Parts Unknown. He fell for the place. Hard.
Portugal wasn't just another pin on the map for Tony. It was personal.
Why Porto Changed Everything
The 2017 Porto episode of Parts Unknown (Season 9, Episode 8) is often cited by fans as one of his most "soulful" hours of television. He wasn't just there to eat; he was there with his former boss from Les Halles, José Meirelles. Imagine walking through a city with the guy who used to sign your paychecks. It changes the vibe. It becomes less about "travel hosting" and more about two old friends confronting the passage of time.
They went to A Cozinha do Martinho.
Tony sat there, tucked into a corner of this humble, family-run spot, and ate Tripas à Moda do Porto. Pig tripe. It’s not exactly the kind of "Gram-worthy" food most tourists hunt for. But for Bourdain, this was the heart of the matter. He loved that the Portuguese didn't waste anything. The dish is heavy, rustic, and carries the history of a city that gave all its good meat to the sailors and kept the offal for themselves.
"Portugal was the first country where I went to a show where, you know, they have four-hour lunches and they've been talking about what they're having for dinner." — Anthony Bourdain
Then there was the Francesinha.
If you haven’t seen one, it’s basically a fever dream of a sandwich. Steak, ham, and sausage crammed between bread, smothered in melted cheese, and drowned in a spicy tomato-and-beer sauce. Bourdain visited Café O Afonso to tackle one. He looked genuinely intimidated by it. Most people are. It’s a culinary "beast" that represents the blue-collar, no-nonsense spirit of Porto.
The Secret of Saudade
During that Porto trip, Bourdain got into a deep conversation about Saudade. It’s a word that doesn't have a direct English translation. It’s a mix of longing, nostalgia, and a bittersweet realization that what you love might be gone forever.
Initially, Tony thought it was just sadness. A local fisherman, Pedro Caxote, had to set him straight. He explained that Saudade isn't a weight; it's the fuel. It’s the love you carry for the past that keeps you moving into the future. You could see it on Tony’s face—that realization hit home. For a man who spent his life chasing disappearing cultures, Saudade was the missing piece of the puzzle.
Lisbon: Seafood, Fado, and Cheap Beer
When he hit Lisbon for No Reservations in 2012, the city was in the middle of a brutal financial crisis. But Tony didn't focus on the misery. He focused on the "cultural and culinary renaissance" happening in the back alleys.
Cervejaria Ramiro: The Legend
If you go to Lisbon today, there is almost certainly a line outside Cervejaria Ramiro. You can thank Tony for some of that.
He sat at those crowded tables and went to town on:
- Percebes (Goose barnacles): They look like prehistoric claws. They taste like the concentrated essence of the Atlantic.
- Sapateira (Stuffed brown crab): A creamy, briny mess that you eat with toasted bread.
- Giant Tiger Prawns: Grilled simply with butter and garlic.
The "Bourdain move" at Ramiro? Ending a massive seafood feast with a Prego. It’s a garlic-heavy steak sandwich that the Portuguese treat like a dessert. It sounds crazy until you try it.
Fado and the Night
Tony spent a night at A Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto. This isn't a "dinner show" for tourists. It’s a cramped, dimly lit room where people drink cheap wine and listen to Fado—the haunting, soulful folk music of Portugal. He sat with author António Lobo Antunes and just listened. He didn't try to over-explain it. He just let the music do the work.
The Azores: Where it All Started
Long before he was a global icon, Anthony Bourdain was a kid working in the kitchens of Provincetown and New York. His coworkers? Mostly Azorean immigrants.
👉 See also: Phoenix Arizona to Flagstaff Arizona: What Most People Get Wrong
When he finally visited the Azores (Season 5, Episode 3 of No Reservations), he felt like he was visiting his "culinary motherland." He wanted to see where those tough, hardworking cooks came from.
- Furnas: He saw Cozido das Furnas being made. This is a meat and vegetable stew buried in the ground and cooked by volcanic heat.
- The Sea: He went squid hunting on the coast.
- The Home Meal: One of the most touching moments was Tony eating at the home of an older couple who had moved to the U.S. and then returned to the islands to retire. He said it felt like being with family.
He did get a little "old-Tony" snarky about the gin and tonics at Peter’s Café Sport, though. He couldn't help himself. He found it hilarious that a world-famous bar on a remote island was known for a British drink.
The Bourdain Impact (And How to Avoid the Traps)
Honestly, following in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain in Portugal is a bit of a double-edged sword now. Places like Ramiro are packed. Some of the "hidden gems" have iPad menus and tourist prices.
If you want the real experience Tony was looking for, you have to look for the "Tascas"—the small, wood-paneled taverns where the menu is written on a chalkboard and the wine comes in a ceramic jug.
Actionable Tips for Your Own Portugal Pilgrimage
- Don't just go to Ramiro: If the line is three hours long, head to Zapata or O Palácio. You’ll get the same fresh seafood without the Disney vibe.
- Eat the "Ugly" Food: Order the Tripas (tripe) or the Arroz de Cabidela (rabbit or chicken cooked in its own blood). It’s what Tony would do.
- Cross the River: Take the ferry from Lisbon to Cacilhas. Eat at Ponto Final (featured in Somebody Feed Phil, but very much a Bourdain-style spot) for the best view of the city.
- Respect the Fado: If you go to a Fado house, be quiet. It’s not background music; it’s a soul-baring performance.
- Look for the Conserveiras: Buy tinned fish at Conserveira de Lisboa. Avoid the flashy "carousel" shops in the tourist zones.
Bourdain’s legacy in Portugal isn't about a list of restaurants. It’s about a way of traveling. He taught us to look past the monuments and find the people who are actually keeping the culture alive, usually over a long, slow lunch and a very cold Sagres or Super Bock.
📖 Related: Drayton Manor Thomas Land: What Most People Get Wrong
To really see Portugal the way he did, you have to be willing to get a little lost, eat things that scare you, and embrace that feeling of Saudade—longing for a moment even while you're still living it. Check out the 2017 Porto episode again before you book your flight; it’s the best roadmap he ever left behind.