Honestly, most people can't even point to the Union of Comoros on a map. It’s this tiny, jagged archipelago floating in the Mozambique Channel, sandwiched between Madagascar and Mozambique. But if you zoom in on Anjouan—the pearl-shaped island that locals call Ndzuwani—you find something that feels significantly different from its neighbors. It’s not your sanitized, over-polished tourist trap. It’s rugged. It’s intense.
Anjouan is the "Island of Perfume."
Walking through the streets of Mutsamudu, the capital, the air doesn't just smell like salt water. It’s thick. You get hit with waves of ylang-ylang, cloves, and jasmine. The island is the world's leading producer of ylang-ylang oil, a base for some of the most expensive perfumes in Paris. But the Anjouan Union of Comoros experience isn't all floral scents and breezy afternoons. The island has a history of political turbulence and a topography that’ll break your legs if you aren't prepared for the incline.
The Reality of Mutsamudu and the Medina
The heart of the island is Mutsamudu. It’s an ancient port city, but don't expect a modern cruise terminal. The Medina here is a labyrinth. You have these incredibly narrow, winding alleys that date back to the 15th century. It’s tight. If you have broad shoulders, you might actually brush against the 500-year-old coral-stone walls.
What makes Anjouan unique within the Union of Comoros is its sheer verticality. Unlike Grande Comore, which is dominated by the massive Karthala volcano, Anjouan is a series of steep, jagged ridges. Everything is built on a slope. The citadel overlooking the harbor, the Citadelle de Mutsamudu, was built by the sultans to fend off Malagasy pirates. It still stands, looking a bit weathered, but offering a view that explains why this was such a strategic prize for centuries.
People here are warm, but they aren't performers for tourists. You’ll see women wearing the chiromani, a traditional two-piece fabric wrap, often with msindanu (sandalwood paste) applied to their faces as a sunblock and beauty treatment. It's authentic. It's real. There is no "tourist price" and "local price" in the way you see in Bali or Thailand because, frankly, there aren't enough tourists to justify the system.
The Ylang-Ylang Economy and Why It Matters
Let’s talk about the scent. You can’t understand the Anjouan Union of Comoros without understanding the distillery process.
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Most of the ylang-ylang goes to Guerlain or Chanel. If you hike up into the highlands, past the town of Bambao, you’ll find these gnarled, twisted trees. They look like they’ve been bent by a giant. Farmers keep them short so the yellow, star-shaped flowers can be picked by hand.
I’ve seen the distillation process in old copper vats that look like they belong in a steampunk novel. The steam rises, the oil separates, and that’s the island's lifeblood. However, there’s a nuance here that most travel blogs miss: the environmental cost. To fuel those old distillers, the locals need wood. This has led to massive deforestation on the steep slopes. When the rains come—and they come heavy in the Indian Ocean—the soil washes away. It’s a delicate, precarious balance between maintaining a global fragrance monopoly and literally losing the ground beneath their feet.
Climbing Mount Ntringui: Not for the Faint of Heart
If you want to see the soul of the island, you go to Lake Dzialandzé. It’s a crater lake tucked away in the mountains.
The hike is brutal.
You start in the humid lowlands and climb through ferns and giant mahogany trees. The mist rolls in fast. One minute you’re looking at the turquoise ocean, the next you’re inside a white cloud. The lake itself is eerie and silent. It’s a Ramsar-protected site because it’s a vital freshwater source, but for the Anjouanais, it’s a place of legends.
Speaking of legends, let's talk about the Livingstone’s Fruit Bat. This is one of the rarest bats on the planet. They have a wingspan of nearly four feet. They don’t look like typical bats; they look like flying foxes with golden fur. They only live on Anjouan and Mohéli. Seeing one glide over the canopy is one of those "National Geographic" moments that actually lives up to the hype.
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The Complicated Politics of the Union
You can’t write about the Anjouan Union of Comoros without mentioning the "S" word: Separatism.
The Union of Comoros is made up of three main islands: Grande Comore (Ngazidja), Mohéli (Mwali), and Anjouan (Ndzuwani). Then there’s Mayotte, which is still a French overseas department. Anjouan has always had a bit of a rebellious streak. In 1997, it actually declared independence, and in 2008, the African Union had to send in troops (Operation Democracy in Comoros) to oust a local strongman named Mohamed Bacar.
Why does this matter to you? Because it shaped the island's character. There is a fierce sense of local identity here. Anjouanais are known for being the most industrious and mobile of the Comorian people. They are traders, farmers, and sailors. While the political situation has stabilized significantly in the last decade, you can still feel that independent spirit. It’s a place that refuses to be ignored.
What to Eat: A Fusion You Didn't Expect
The food on Anjouan is a chaotic, delicious mix of African, Arab, and French influences.
- Langouste a la Vanille: Lobster in vanilla sauce. Sounds weird, tastes incredible.
- Pilaou: A spiced rice dish that reflects the Omani influence on the archipelago.
- Mataba: Cassava leaves cooked with coconut milk. It’s the staple. It looks like green mush, but it’s savory and rich.
Everything is seasoned with cloves and cinnamon grown right on the hillsides. You haven't lived until you've had a piece of grilled fish caught two hours ago, rubbed with local spices, and eaten on a beach with black volcanic sand.
The Practicalities: How to Actually Get There
Let’s get real about logistics. Anjouan is not easy to reach.
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You usually fly into Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport on Grande Comore. From there, you have two choices: a small puddle-jumper plane or the ferry.
The plane is faster but prone to "island time" delays. The ferry, often called the Maria Galante, is a local experience. It’s crowded. It’s loud. It’s an adventure. If you suffer from seasickness, the Mozambique Channel will find your weakness.
Entry Requirements and Safety:
Most nationalities need a visa, but you can usually get one on arrival at the airport. In terms of safety, Anjouan is generally very safe for travelers, provided you respect local customs. This is a conservative Muslim society. Dress modestly. Don't go wandering around Mutsamudu in a bikini or short-shorts. A little respect goes a long way here; people will go out of their way to help you if you show interest in their culture.
Actionable Insights for the Anjouan Traveler
If you’re serious about visiting the Anjouan Union of Comoros, don't just wing it.
- Hire a local guide for the Medina. You will get lost. A guide doesn't just keep you from spinning in circles; they open doors. They’ll take you into the hidden courtyards where the real life happens.
- Bring Euros or Comorian Francs (KMF). Credit cards are basically useless outside of maybe one or two spots in the capital. The exchange rate is fixed to the Euro ($1 \approx 491$ KMF), which makes math easy.
- Pack for two climates. It’s sweltering on the coast and surprisingly chilly in the highlands. If you're hiking to the crater lake, you need a light jacket and solid boots with grip. Volcanic mud is slippery.
- Learn basic French or Arabic phrases. While the local language is Shikomori (a Swahili dialect), French is the language of administration. "Bonjour" and "Merci" are the bare minimum.
- Check the ferry schedule in person. Don't rely on websites. Go to the port in Moroni or Mutsamudu and ask the guys working the docks. They know when the boat is actually leaving.
Anjouan isn't for everyone. If you want a resort with an infinity pool and a cocktail menu, go to the Maldives. But if you want to see a place that is raw, aromatic, and deeply historical, this island is one of the last few frontiers. It’s a place where the scent of ylang-ylang masks the struggle of a developing nation, and where the mountains meet the sea with a jagged, unforgiving beauty.