You’re driving through the Guanacaste dry forest, and suddenly, the trees start looking like architecture. Or maybe the architecture looks like the trees. Honestly, that’s the first thing you notice about Andaz Peninsula Papagayo. It doesn't look like a hotel. It looks like a series of giant wooden cocoons tucked into the hillside.
Most luxury resorts in Costa Rica try way too hard to be "tropical." They slap some bamboo on the walls and call it a day. But Andaz is different. It’s a Hyatt property, sure, but it feels more like a billionaire’s private treehouse colony. If you’ve been scrolling through Instagram wondering if the views are actually that blue or if it’s just a heavy saturation filter, I’ll tell you right now: the water in Culebra Bay really is that turquoise. But there are things about this place that the glossy brochures won’t tell you—like the fact that the monkeys will absolutely steal your sugar packets if you leave your balcony door open for even ten seconds.
Why Andaz Peninsula Papagayo feels so different from the Four Seasons
Most people compare this place to the Four Seasons just down the road. They’re both on the same 1,400-acre gated peninsula. But they have totally different souls. The Four Seasons is "old money" and polished. The Andaz Peninsula Papagayo is the younger, cooler sibling who wears linen shirts and knows exactly which local craft beer you should be drinking.
Designed by Costa Rican architect Ronald Zürcher, the resort is inspired by the organic shapes of cocoons and shells. You won’t find any elevators here. You’ll be walking. A lot. The resort is built on a steep incline, which means two things. One, your glutes are going to get a serious workout. Two, the views are unobstructed. Every single one of the 152 rooms faces the water.
The rooms themselves are basically indoor-outdoor sanctuaries. The showers have glass walls that make you feel like you’re bathing in the jungle, though there’s a privacy screen if you’re worried about a passing Coati getting a peek. They use local wood, river stones, and woven textiles. It feels grounded.
The food situation: Beyond the standard tourist fare
Let’s talk about Rio Bhongo. It’s the main hub. Most mornings, you’ll find yourself here for breakfast, which is a sprawling affair. They have the standard omelet station, but the move is the gallo pinto. It’s the national dish—rice and beans—and here, they serve it with fried plantains and squeaky local cheese. It’s heavy. It’s delicious. It’s the only way to start a day in Guanacaste.
Then there’s Ostra.
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This is their signature restaurant. It focuses on seafood. If you like ceviche, this is your mecca. They have a "Ceviche Bar" where you can watch the chefs work magic with sea bass and lime. It’s sophisticated but not stuffy. You can wear sandals, and nobody will look at you twice.
But honestly? The real gem is Chao Pescao. It’s a tapas bar with live music and a vibe that feels like a neighborhood hangout in San José rather than a resort restaurant. They have a mixologist there who makes a drink with chili-infused guaro (the local moonshine) that will change your life. Or at least make you forget how much you spent on the flight down.
What to eat at Chao Pescao:
- Empanadas: Forget everything you know about frozen ones; these are flaky and stuffed with slow-cooked meats.
- Patacones: Twice-fried green plantains. They are salty, crunchy, and addictive.
- Tico Sliders: Local beef with a kick.
The beach dilemma and the secret boat ride
Here is the one thing people get wrong about Andaz Peninsula Papagayo: the main beach isn't that great. Sombrero Oscuro and Sombrero Claro are the two "on-site" beaches. They are small. The sand is dark. It’s fine for a quick dip, but it’s not the white-sand paradise you see in postcards.
However.
The resort has a private Beach Club. To get there, you hop on a little boat from the resort’s pier. The ride takes about 10 minutes. This is where the "real" beach is. Nacascolo Beach is stunning. The sand is lighter, the water is calmer, and the Beach Club has its own pool and restaurant. If you spend your whole trip at the main resort pools, you’re doing it wrong. Take the boat. Do it every day.
While you're on that boat, keep your eyes peeled. Humpback whales migrate through these waters from August to October and again from December to April. I’ve seen them breaching just a few hundred yards from the resort. It’s humbling.
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Sustainability isn't just a buzzword here
Costa Rica takes "Pura Vida" seriously, and the Andaz follows suit. They’ve basically banned single-use plastics. You get a reusable water bottle when you check in, and there are filtered water stations everywhere.
They also work closely with the Culebra Reef Restoration project. The bay suffered a lot of coral loss over the years, and the resort helps fund the "gardening" of new coral. You can actually go snorkeling with a guide who will show you the nurseries. It’s a weirdly emotional experience to see tiny bits of coral being nurtured back to health. It makes you feel a little better about the carbon footprint of your flight.
Navigating the "Monkey Tax" and other local quirks
You are in the jungle. This isn't a manicured Disney version of nature. It’s loud. The howler monkeys sound like literal demons screaming in the middle of the night. It can be terrifying if you aren't expecting it. But they’re harmless; they’re just loud.
The white-faced capuchin monkeys are the real troublemakers. They are smart. They know how to unzip backpacks. If you leave your sunscreen or snacks on your poolside lounge chair and walk away to take a photo, don't be surprised if a monkey is using your SPF 50 as a snack when you get back. Most guests think it's cute until their iPhone ends up at the bottom of a ravine.
Also, be prepared for the "Papagayo Winds." From December to March, the winds can get intense. We’re talking 30-40 mph gusts. It keeps the humidity down, which is nice, but it can make boat trips a bit bumpy. If you’re prone to seasickness, bring the Dramamine.
How to actually get value out of your stay
This place is expensive. There’s no way around it. A cocktail will run you $18-22 after tax and service charges. But there are ways to make it feel less like you’re bleeding cash.
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- The Minibar: Unlike almost every other luxury hotel on earth, the non-alcoholic snacks and drinks in the minibar are free. They restock them daily. Those local plantain chips and tropical juices are actually really good. Use them.
- Complimentary Activities: They have a daily schedule of free stuff. Kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and guided nature walks are usually included. Don't pay for a private tour until you've checked the daily resort calendar.
- The Hyatt Connection: If you have World of Hyatt points, this is one of the best "value" redemptions in the entire system. It’s often a Category 6 or 7, meaning you can stay for 25,000 to 35,000 points. Considering the cash rate can hover around $800-$1,200 a night, that’s a steal.
The reality of the "Hillside" layout
I mentioned the hills earlier, but I need to emphasize it: if you have mobility issues, this resort is a challenge. They do have golf carts (called "transporters") that zip around constantly to pick people up, but during peak times (like right after breakfast), you might be waiting 15 minutes for a ride.
If you’re able-bodied, walk. You’ll see more wildlife that way. I’ve spotted iguanas the size of small dogs, variegated squirrels, and nesting parrots just by taking the stairs instead of the cart.
Room selection tips:
- Standard Rooms: Great, but some are lower down the hill and don't have the "wow" height.
- Andaz Suites: These give you a lot more breathing room and a massive soaking tub.
- Large Families: Look into the villas. They come with private plunge pools and full kitchens, which can actually save you money if you buy groceries in the nearby town of Liberia before heading to the peninsula.
The Golf and Tennis scene
If you’re a golfer, the Ocean Course at Peninsula Papagayo is right there. It’s an Arnold Palmer design. It’s consistently ranked as one of the best in the world outside the US. Holes 6 and 15 are the ones everyone talks about because they play right along the cliffs.
Even if you don't play golf, the course is a great place for bird watching. Since it's a massive green space, it attracts species you might not see in the denser jungle parts of the resort.
Final practical insights for your trip
Getting to Andaz Peninsula Papagayo is surprisingly easy. You fly into Liberia International Airport (LIR). From there, it’s a 35-to-40-minute drive. Don’t fly into San José (SJO) unless you want a 5-hour drive or a secondary domestic flight.
When you land, ignore the aggressive taxi touts. Pre-book a shuttle through the hotel or a reputable company like Liberia Shuttle. It’ll save you the headache of haggling in the heat.
Pack light. You really don't need formal wear. Even for dinner at Ostra, a nice sundress or a pair of chinos and a polo is more than enough. The vibe is "barefoot luxury." The most important things you can bring are high-quality bug spray (the "no-see-ums" on the beach are tiny but fierce) and a waterproof bag for your phone when you go kayaking.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Check the season: If you want whales and green landscapes, go in August or September (but expect afternoon rain). If you want guaranteed sun and don't mind the wind, go in January.
- Book your dinner reservations early: Ostra and Chao Pescao fill up, especially during the dry season. Do this at least two weeks before you arrive.
- Download the Hyatt App: You can use it to request golf carts and see the daily activity schedule without having to call the front desk.
- Bring USD: While the local currency is the Colón, dollars are accepted everywhere on the peninsula. Just make sure the bills are crisp; many places won't accept torn or heavily worn US currency.
Staying here isn't just about a room; it's about being immersed in a very specific, high-end version of the Costa Rican wilderness. It’s polished, but the jungle is always right there, pushing back against the edges. Respect the monkeys, take the boat to the beach club, and definitely eat your weight in gallo pinto.