You're standing in the chaotic, subterranean belly of Moynihan Train Hall. People are sprinting for the LIRR. Others are clutching overpriced lattes like lifelines. But you? You're looking for a specific track. You're about to board the Adirondack. Honestly, taking the Amtrak NYC to Montreal route is a test of patience that rewards you with some of the most startlingly beautiful views in the American Northeast. It's not the fastest way to get to Quebec. Not by a long shot. If you want speed, go to LaGuardia. But if you want to actually see the Hudson Valley transition into the jagged peaks of the Adirondacks before sliding across the Canadian border, this is the only way to do it.
The train leaves New York City and immediately starts flirting with the river. You’ve got the Palisades on one side and mansions on the other. It’s a long haul. We're talking 10 to 12 hours depending on how the border agents are feeling that day. Some people hate it. I think it's the best "slow travel" experience left in this part of the world.
What You Need to Know About the Adirondack Line Right Now
Let’s get the logistics out of the way because they’ve been a mess lately. For a while, you couldn't even take the train all the way. Track work and heat speed restrictions in Canada—yes, tracks can literally warp in the sun—meant the train often stopped at Albany or Saratoga Springs. But as of now, the full service for Amtrak NYC to Montreal is back on the schedule.
You leave Penn Station (Moynihan) early in the morning. Usually around 8:41 AM. You won't see Montreal until the sun is starting to dip. The route follows the Hudson River for hours. You pass West Point. You see Bannerman Castle—that crumbling arsenal on an island that looks like something out of a gothic novel. Then things get quiet. North of Albany, the train feels emptier, more secluded.
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The Border Crossing Reality Check
The border is where things get real. Or slow. Usually both. When the train hits Rouses Point, New York, everyone stays in their seats. Don't get up. Don't try to go to the cafe car. You just sit there while U.S. and Canadian customs officials board the train.
They’ll ask for your passport. They might ask why you’re going to Montreal. "To eat poutine and walk around Old Montreal" is a valid answer, by the way. Sometimes this takes 45 minutes. Sometimes it takes two hours. It really depends on if someone in Car 3 has a complicated visa issue. You have to be okay with that uncertainty. If you have a tight dinner reservation in Montreal for 8:00 PM, you’re playing a dangerous game.
Comfort, Food, and Why You Should Pack a Sandwich
Amtrak’s Amfleet cars are... fine. They aren't luxury. But compared to a coach seat on a plane? It's like a palace. You get actual legroom. You can walk around. There’s a cafe car, but here’s a pro tip: buy your food at Moynihan before you board. The Amtrak cafe car is great for a reliable cup of coffee or a microwave pizza in a pinch, but twelve hours is a long time to survive on pre-packaged snacks.
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- The Left Side Advantage: When leaving NYC, sit on the left side of the train. That’s the river side. You’ll have a front-row seat to the Hudson.
- The Right Side Transition: Once you pass Whitehall and head toward Lake Champlain, the views shift.
- Wi-Fi Woes: Don't rely on the "Amtrak_WiFi." It’s spotty. Once you hit the North Country near the border, your cell signal will vanish into the woods. Download your podcasts. Bring a book. Seriously.
The scenery is the main event. Around Lake Champlain, the tracks run so close to the water it feels like the train is floating. You see the Green Mountains of Vermont across the water. It’s stunning. It’s the kind of view that makes you forget you’ve been sitting in a vinyl seat for seven hours.
Navigating the Seasonal Shifts
The experience changes wildly depending on when you go. In October, the Amtrak NYC to Montreal route is basically a rolling leaf-peeping festival. The maples turn this neon orange that doesn't look real. It’s also the hardest time to get a ticket.
Winter is different. It’s quiet. The lakes are frozen, and the Adirondack mountains look like charcoal drawings. It’s beautiful, but keep in mind that snow can cause delays. In the summer, the "heat restrictions" I mentioned earlier can slow the train down to 10 mph in certain sections in Canada because the rails expand. It’s a quirk of the infrastructure.
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Arrival at Gare Centrale
You finally roll into Montreal’s Gare Centrale (Central Station). You’re underneath the Queen Elizabeth Hotel. You’re in the heart of the city. No 45-minute Uber from Trudeau Airport. You just walk off the train, grab your bags, and you're ten minutes away from a smoked meat sandwich at Schwartz’s or a bagel in the Plateau.
Is it worth it? If you value your time above all else, no. Fly. But if you want to feel the geography change—to see the urban sprawl of Manhattan melt into the deep, silent woods of upstate New York—there is no better way to travel.
Actionable Steps for Your Journey
- Book 2-3 weeks in advance: Prices for the Adirondack fluctuate. "Value" fares disappear fast, especially for weekend departures.
- Check the Amtrak "Track Your Train" tool: On the day of departure, use the app to see if the northbound train is coming from elsewhere or starting fresh at Moynihan to gauge potential delays.
- Prepare your documents: Have your passport or Nexus card in your carry-on, not in a bag overhead. You will need it the second the train stops at Rouses Point.
- Download offline maps: Since signal drops near the border, have a map of Montreal downloaded on Google Maps so you can find your hotel once you hit the station.
- Bring a power strip: While most seats have outlets, some older cars have loose sockets. A small multi-plug adapter ensures your phone stays charged for the whole 12-hour trek.
The Adirondack isn't just a commute. It's a transition. By the time you hear the conductor announce "Montréal, Gare Centrale," you've earned your vacation.