You’ve probably seen the pictures of that massive stone castle sitting in the middle of a river. It looks like something straight out of a Disney movie, or maybe a tragic Victorian novel. That’s Boldt Castle, and it’s basically the face of Alexandria Bay New York State. But honestly? If you think this town is just a backdrop for a fancy house, you’re missing the actual soul of the place.
It’s a river town. A real one.
The kind of place where the air smells like freshwater and outboard motor oil. Where the local population of around 900 people swells to over 15,000 once the ice thaws and the summer sun hits the St. Lawrence. It’s gritty, beautiful, and weirdly obsessed with pirates. If you’re planning a trip, or just curious why everyone in Upstate New York talks about "The Bay" like it’s a sacred pilgrimage, let’s get into the weeds of what’s actually happening there.
The Tragedy of Heart Island
Everyone goes to Boldt Castle. You sort of have to. It’s located on Heart Island, and for the 2026 season, it officially opens its doors on May 9.
The story is a total downer, though. George Boldt, the guy who ran the Waldorf Astoria in NYC, wanted to build this 120-room Rhineland-style castle for his wife, Louise. He had hundreds of workers going at it. Then, in January 1904, she died suddenly. George sent a telegram: "Stop all work." He never set foot on the island again.
The castle sat rotting for 73 years. Just an empty shell with graffiti and broken windows.
It wasn't until the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority took over in the late 70s that it became the polished museum you see now. When you walk through the halls today, it feels like a weird hybrid of a construction site and a palace. Some rooms are meticulously restored with Gilded Age furniture; others are still raw brick and exposed beams.
Expert Tip: Don't skip the Yacht House. It’s a separate boat ride from the castle, but it houses some of the most insane antique wooden boats you’ll ever see. It’s honestly more impressive than the main house if you’re into engineering.
Why the Pirate Obsession?
If you wander into town during August, specifically August 7–9, 2026, you’re going to see a lot of eye patches. Bill Johnston’s Pirate Days isn't just a gimmick; it’s a tribute to a guy who actually lived in these islands.
Bill Johnston was a "patriot" or a "criminal" depending on which side of the border you ask. During the Patriot War of 1838, he helped blow up a British steamship and then hid in the Thousand Islands for years because nobody could find him in the maze of 1,864 islands.
The town treats this like a second Christmas. There are mock invasions, cannons going off, and a lot of adults dressed like Jack Sparrow. It’s chaotic. It’s loud. It’s very Alexandria Bay.
The Secret Side of the St. Lawrence
Most tourists stay on the main drag (Church Street and James Street). They eat fudge, buy a t-shirt, and get on an Uncle Sam Boat Tour.
That’s fine, but if you want the "real" experience, you need to get off the sidewalk.
Scuba Diving the Graveyard
The St. Lawrence River is a literal graveyard. Because the water is cold and fresh, shipwrecks don’t decay like they do in the ocean. Divers come from all over the world to see the Vickery or the Keystorm. If you’re not a diver, you can sometimes catch a glimpse of the shallower wrecks through a glass-bottom boat tour, like the ones Clayton Island Tours runs.
The "Millionaire’s Row" Reality Check
Back in the day, the ultra-wealthy—we’re talking the heads of Macy’s, Pullman cars, and Singer sewing machines—all had "cottages" here. These aren't cabins. They are massive estates perched on tiny granite rocks.
Cruising past them is a lesson in Gilded Age ego. You’ll see houses that take up 95% of the island they sit on, leaving just enough room for a wrap-around porch and a flagpole.
Logistics: Getting Here Without Losing Your Mind
Alexandria Bay is not on a major highway. You have to want to get there.
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- The Drive: It’s about 30 minutes north of Watertown. If you're coming from Syracuse, it's a straight shot up I-81.
- The Border: You are right on the edge of Canada. If you take a boat tour that circles the Canadian side (the "Two Nation Tour"), you usually don't need a passport as long as the boat doesn't dock. But if you want to visit Singer Castle on Dark Island or hop over to Rockport, Ontario, keep that ID handy.
- The Weather: June through September is prime time. In the winter? The town basically goes into hibernation. A few places stay open for the Pond Hockey Tournament in February, but otherwise, it's a ghost town of ice and wind.
Where to Actually Eat and Stay
Don’t expect 5-star Michelin dining. That’s not what this is.
- Cavallario’s Steak & Seafood: It feels like a time capsule. High-end for the area, great steaks, very "old school" vibe.
- The Riley’s by the River: Go for the view. Sitting on the deck watching the massive Great Lakes freighters squeeze through the narrow channel is better than any TV show.
- The Shipwheel: It’s a classic local spot. Get the breakfast.
For lodging, Capt. Thomson’s Resort is the standard. It’s right on the water, and you can watch the boats from your balcony. If you want something quieter, look for a rental on Wellesley Island. It’s connected by the Thousand Islands Bridge and has more of a "woods" feel than the "party" feel of downtown.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you're heading to Alexandria Bay New York State this year, do these three things to avoid the typical tourist traps:
- Book the First Boat: Take the 9:00 AM or 10:00 AM ferry to Boldt Castle. By 1:00 PM, the island is swarmed with people and the heat gets sticky. The morning light on the stone is better for photos anyway.
- Rent a Pontoon: Don't just sit on a tour boat with 200 other people. Rent your own small craft for a half-day. Navigating the islands yourself is how you find the quiet coves and hidden swimming holes that the tour boats can't reach.
- Check the Event Calendar: If you hate crowds, avoid the River Run (motorcycle weekend) in late June. If you love energy and noise, that’s exactly when you should be there.
Alexandria Bay isn't trying to be the Hamptons. It’s a place that’s proud of its rough edges and its weird history. It’s a town built on a river that doesn't care about your schedule, and once you get on "River Time," you'll understand why people keep coming back for a hundred years.
To make the most of your trip, check the official Boldt Castle website for updated 2026 ferry schedules before you arrive, as water levels can sometimes affect docking times. Stick to the locally owned motels if you want the authentic 1000 Islands experience.